Sounds like you got it all covered there Dan. An E-20 though? I thought all the brakes on saab either used a standard torx or hex head...........that would have pissed me off to find out part way through.

 

uh, yeah the later 9-5 is e20 (external/female torx) on the caliper bolts. :roll:

nobody has anything above e14 or e16 in stock.

what about bedding in the pads, they're just regular saab pads? do some 60-0 stops?

at least I know enough not to do front and rear at the same time :shock:

 

uh, yeah the later 9-5 is e20 on the caliper bolts. :roll:

what about bedding in the pads, they're just regular saab pads? do some 60-0 stops?

at least I know enough not to do front and rear at the same time :shock:

Haha. I did front and rear on my 9k at the same time with no problems at all. As for bedding in the pads your right on the money. Go out on a straight stretch with no traffic. Do a coupld (3 or 4) 60-0 stops while applying on a little bit of brakes each time. Take your time slowing down. Then do a 90-0 and hold them hard. Thats how I did mine. The slow stops will give the rotor and pad time to make sure you have any protective coatings off and to remove any impurities on the surface and the hard stop will get them all bedded in together nice.

 

sweet. thanks.

I am saving a metric-butt-ton of money doing all this crap on the 9-5s lately.

 

When you come to a stop, take your foot off the brake pedal. It will prevent build up.


It's a good habit to get into.

 

yes if I understand the bedding process correctly you are supposed to heat up the brakes with hard stops but never actually let it come to a full stop to avoid depositing material on the rotor.

 

+1.....about 3-4 hard stops from 60-10 and several more from 40-5 should do it. Apply the parking brake to stop from a slow roll if you need to. If you can find a quiet stretch of road, you're golden....

Check the CDOC site or Stop Tech for more info....

 

Have a breaker bar ready for those E20 bolts. They are on there good! Use some red loctite when you put them back on.

 

I just did my 03 and I just used a hex to remove th epins, do you need to pull the caliper completely to yank the rotor? it did nto seem like it

 

You shouldn't need to completely remove the caliper, just take it off the mounting hat. That will need to come off, however. Plan to get a big zip tie or bungy to hold the caliper up out of the way.

 

great thanks everybody

might be doing this tonight; rotors, pads and elusive e20 socket all should arrive this afternoon.

 

Sounds like fun!

 

If i can get the calipers off, it just might be fun :lol:

 

Big ole breaker bar and your e20 should be able to get those bolts to come loose.

 

yeah about that... I don't see a breaker bar really fitting in the wheel well so much

we'll see how it goes. :lol:

 

yeah about that... I don't see a breaker bar really fitting in the wheel well so much

we'll see how it goes. :lol:

you shouldn't really need it, but all you gotta do is turn the wheel and thus eliminating tight clearances.
I have faith in your abilities.
If you become frustrated see the favorite drink thread

 

actually WOW i feel dumb the more I think about how obvious that should be to turn the wheel :lol:

that would have been a big help when painting the calipers :lol:

 

haha!


We have all been there.

 

OK, three important questions.

1. do I rip the metal backing pad off the stockpads and glue it to the new ones? or just install the new pads without that. they didn't come with one.

2. what way do the slotted rotors go? i think I have them backwards. besides the slots can the rotors go on either side?

3. WTF AM I SUPPOSED TO DO NOW? :shock:

this is one of those e20 torx bolts that holds the caliper carrier. The other half is still in the carrier attached to the car. I haven't yet got the other one to even budge.

WTF. I also broke a extension, and almost snapped this huge breaker bar.

 

OK, three important questions.

1. do I rip the metal backing pad off the stockpads and glue it to the new ones? or just install the new pads without that. they didn't come with one.

No.

You can however, use some "anti squeal" goop on the backs of the pads if you like.

My wifes car had those metal plates on the backs of the factory pads, the Hawks do not. No issues so far.

 

oh shit :O

i dont have a good answer for that one. you need to get the busted piece out, and use some penetrating oil on the rest of them...

 

anyone? if anyone local can give me a hand that would be welcomed. :sad: I'm really frazzled right now, will have to go back to this tomorrow.

 

oh snap!

Shit thats no good at all. Get lots of penetrating oil in there now, let it sit over night, and find somebody that comes out and does bolt extraction or do it yourself.

 

Heat, penetrating oil, I have even heat of dripping wax onto the threads and letting it wick into the bolt hole.

You may even be able to use a stud extractor if there is enough meat sticking out.

 

Wow, that sucks.

Like others have said...heat, and/or a drill.

Peep this too, maybe you need an "EZ out"

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

 

someone probably overtightened those with an impact gun. I am not sure of the exact situation, however if you can remove the other one and get the carrier off you might be able to grab hold to the broken off section with vice grips and extract it that way. If there is not enough left to grab onto, I would remove the spindle and take it to a machine shop and have them extract it. As far as trying to drill and extract the broken off bolt yourself, I would recommend against it as that can go badly if you do something like snap off an E-Z out in the hole you drilled. If that happens you will probably need a replacement spindle assembly

 

I've done what Jeff said with broken bolts before. Its ugly...but it works.

If you need a hand I'll probably be around tomorrow afternoon/evening.

 

yeah, I obviously am in over my head at this point, crowley if you want to come and laugh at me that would be great. maybe you would have a more rational head and have some ideas before I destroy this car.

about the pads, should I be re-using that metal guard??? and what way for the slots. I may have put the wrong rotor on the other side in my frazzled state

Jeff: first thing i thought was "FUCKING IMPACT GUN!"

 

Wow. That's harsh.

I've used those extrctor bits that have been mentioned, and they do work, but you have to get into the bolt nearly perfectly level to have it work well. I think Jeff's idea might be your best bet.

Lots of PB Blaster can't hurt either. Good luck!