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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've decided to start a new thread dedicated to the upkeep and customization that I do to this car. It will be nice to start a fresh thread with EVERYTHING that needs attention. It will be long winded and full of pics. Taken from old thread:

Mechanical:

-Koni shocks to be installed.
-Swap cruise control box.
-Steering column bearing needs to be replaced.
-Speedo sometimes goes out (rear wheel sensor?)
-Dash lights flicker (Rheostat/Dimmer? or Cluster itself)
-Both driver and passengers folding mechanisms need to be fixed (Cables in seats).

Cosmetic:
-Swap key less entry mechanisms.
-Fix keyed hood, fender, door.
-Refinish Talladega lip.
-Refinish Viggen rims.
-Install carbon fiber dash and boost gauge w a-pillar pod.
-Reposition huge front mount intercooler.

The car is running and registered. It won't pass inspection until I replace the control arm and both tierods. I have driven the car 1200+ miles since we got it running. So far here are the issues that need to be fixed the soonest:

-Dash lights/instruments/sometimes SID flicker on and off. When a bump is hit sometimes it flicks on (video attached here).
-Tierods - need to replace ASAP
-Wheels need to be balanced.
-Konis need to be installed.

Previous thread:
http://www.saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49219
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Pics

As mention previously in my thread:

Cardboard "gasket" Monro Muffler Herkimer, NY:



Oil filter housing:


Oil filter housing and lines:


Oil residue dripping at mudflap. Inside on tire has oil on it and lines of residue on wheel.:


Side Shot: B & N is next to BB&B


Will take pics of turbo where leak is..but for now the oil is dripping down the line that connects to the oil filter housing..
 

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I think....on the intake manifold, drivers side.
 

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The dash gauge ground is under the dash to the left side on the drivers side. Take the kick panel down and you will see it. Those should be clean though, maybe just loose.
 

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28psi on what wastegate setting? still running the helper spring or no? if yes, it should be running more than 28psi (you may have a leak). can we have some acceleration videos and/or races? anyone friends surprised by it yet? :) good luck with the last of the kinks.
 

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Your dash problem is Very common these days. I Remove and Disassemble the clusters, Then i take the Processor board Not the Gauges to my Electronics Buddy who Builds processor boards for a Living so he can Re touch or re soldier the Chips and all Soldered connections on the processor Board. I used to do this My self and still do some times but the Pros with the High Dollar RF soldering Irons and Magnifying tables make this repair an Easy Fix.

Find a Friend with good soldiering skills or Get some good equipment and the Fix is Cheap. No parts required just soldier and Skills.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:



Well luckily these pics are old and fixed the oil leak at the turbo bolts. Turns out they were just loose and with some improvisation with a wrench I got it done. I also fixed the exhaust leak at the Dp. I greased up the DI cassette and MAP sensor splice connectors and now it boost strong again. No misfires under boost.

There still seems to be a slight misfire around 2700 RPMS in 1st gear and the idle is still funny sometimes. It feel likes its picking and searching from 800 to 1000-1100 RPMS.

Even though the oil leak is fixed at the turbo, its still leaking somewhere because there is still fluid on the control arm and coming out of the tire. It is a very slight leak but needs attention all the time so I don't go low on oil.

Soaked axle:


Besides that, it runs well. I think the waterpump is starting to go or something because my car sometimes stalls out out of nowhere and I feel the serp belt slip..

Need help assessing this situation:

I'll be driving along and ill feel like when I get on the gas sometimes, the belt bucks and slips slightly. It would explain my previous serp belt issues being chewed up and all. Sometimes though I'll be driving along then the stock boost gauge will stick all the way to the red and the car stalls causing the battery light to turn on and me to lose power steering and such...

I just replaced my serpentine belt when I did the oil leak and dielectric grease so that isn't the issue. All the pulleys function fine. But it does seem like the waterpump is leaking. I am thinking the waterpump maybe going...Here's the odd thing. When it happens sometimes I can push in the clutch and pop it and the car will drive the nothing ever happened.

usually when this happens I pull to the side of the road, shut the car off, check serp belt, then get back in and start her up. And she starts back up like nothing happened.

HELP! haha I made it to Buffalo from Cuse so it's not to bad but whenever I drive I cross my fingers. What is the solution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Update:

Well I worked on the car a little bit since I last posted and I figured I'd update. The oil leak was coming from the hose going to the oil filter housing so I figured I'd drop the subframe, tighten it and be done with it. In the process, I would swap my 109 k subframe in with good control arms.

I had a friend help me out. We dropped both subframes out of each car. Then I ended up overtightening the hose to the oil filter housing, which resulted in snapping the actual housing. I switched housings and then it started to get dark so we called it a night.

The next day, we put the subframe with 2 good control arms and the poly sway bar bushings on. Lining up the subframe was the hardest part because it started to get dark. Got the subframe aligned and torqued to spec, put everything together then did some final touches.

I degreased the engine bay and under the engine where the oil leak was. I cleaned and degreased the map sensor wire splices.(thinking this can be reason why car is bucking and stalling/bad signal to MAP) Degreased the belt area and everything. Time for the test drive to see if the oil leak is finally fixed.

I push it hard in 2nd and 3rd then immediately get out of the car and look at the tire to see if oil is still spraying...No nothing yet...so I test it some more boosting it through the back roads. When I pull back in at home....Oil still on the control arm and wheel...Great so why's it leaking now?

Turns out I fixed the hose, but that was a minor leak. The engine is leaking at the crankshaft seal that runs the serpentine belt...So now I have one last leak too fix...The suspension feels a lot better too. The car is more solid and feels better around corners

I'm ordering the seal and other misc parts for my koni install. I'll install the koni's, fix the oil leak at the crankshaft seal, install new tirerods, get a new alignment, then finally balance the rims and mechanically the car will be sound....Getting closer and closer.

Recent night shot:

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's a little update:

The cars been sitting in my driveway since August when I left for school. Thanksgiving break I didn't show any love to the SAAB either. Today was the first day that I was able to even touch the car.

My rear driver's side tire was deflated and the battery was dead. Easy enough, I charged the battery and inflated the rear tire. Check to make sure oil/coolant was all good and then started the car.

Started right up and I let it run for about 10-15 minutes. I decide that I should take it around the block to see if its running properly. Everything functions as it did when I left in August, there are just a couple of gremlins that I need to work out.

Instead of putting my underbody/exhaust/oilpan through the torture of Upstate, NY winters I decided that I'm going to let it sit this winter. Instead I am buying a cheap volvo 850 with 200k on it (rebuilt engine and new clutch less than yr ago). I worked out a joint deal with the mechanic, so for a set price I am (1)acquiring the volvo inspected and ready to drive. (2)having help installing all 4 konis (3) having help installing new outer tierods (4) helping replace crankshaft seal. Basically he's letting me use all of his tools/lift with his knowledge and help.

Before I bring the SAAB up to the mechanic, I need to replace the instrument cluster or/and SID depending on which is causing my instrument panel malfunction(flickering). I am also going to install the carbon fiber boost gauge with carbon fiber dash.

After all of this the SAAB with be 100% mechanically sound and I will just work on making things look pretty(sanding/painting various things). So after everything I will have this beater volvo and will be keeping the SAAB and making everything on it better. The volvo will take the abuse of winter and philly roads. The SAAB will be a second car that I can wrench on whenever anything breaks.

Here's a pic of its current state:

 
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