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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have read about and know how to remove the balance chain, but am tentative as to direction and method to pull it out once severed.
Given the idler sprocket location I'd assume I'd want to pull it from the rear-of-car facing side, but am not sure. Should I tie something to the tail (end not under tension from my fist) to keep it under tension? I am afraid simply of it getting stuck. For those who got it stuck, what did you do? For those who didn't please share.
Thanks,
Cm
BTW It may or may not be making noise-but I figured it's one less thing to fail and one less thing to worry about down the road so even if the effort doesnt solve the noise it is a good PM item.
 

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Do cut it on the firewall side of the lower gear, and definitely attach something to the end of the chain above your cut. Last one I did got sucked up when tension came off it and it was a HUGE PITA. Once you've made your cut roll the engine back by hand to get the chain off the lower gear and it'll pull right out. It's hard to "cut" that chain, I usually grind off one side of a link and take out the link
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do cut it on the firewall side of the lower gear, and definitely attach something to the end of the chain above your cut. Last one I did got sucked up when tension came off it and it was a HUGE PITA. Once you've made your cut roll the engine back by hand to get the chain off the lower gear and it'll pull right out. It's hard to "cut" that chain, I usually grind off one side of a link and take out the link


Do you see why your answer doesnt really make sense/is redundant? You only cut one place and then it is free of the only sprocket you have access to-eliminating the need for turning the engine by hand, which wouldnt do anything anyway because the system can be manipulated without the now-freed drive sprocket.
-Cm
 

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Cm- there's not enough space for the chain to come off the lower gear, that's why you need to turn the engine once the chain is cut. Open it up, you'll see what I mean. That pic doesn't show the oil pick-up in the timing cover which is really close to the gear, and I'm assuming you don't want to pull the cover
 

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I've only ever done it with the timing cover off. I don't support that is an option?
We do this at the shop all the time - no one is willing to pay the ~10+ hours of labor to pull the cover plus no guarantees about the timing cover possibly leaking oil. Drop pan, dremel cutter on a flex head, roll chain out, re-seal. 3-hour job, 4- including replacing rod bearings.

Drew
 

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If you do remove balance shaft chain, be prepared to get some vibrations around 3000 rpm. Or maybe not? Some people say, they don't feel any difference. I bought a SAAB 9000 1995 model, 2.3. with 150 000 miles on it. It was an old police car. They should be serviced and taken care of, I thought. What I didn't know, was that, at the last service they did a chain job on it, because it rattled to much. This company do a cheap tune up, before selling it to the public. Apparently they change the main chain, and removed the balance one. I was driving around getting crazy over the vibrations around 3000, which was my cruising speed in Sweden. (120- 130km/h). Finally after 8 months, I gave up and sold to another poor guy. (but he got it sheap, so he shouldn't complain, which he did anyway). My guess is that if you have a 2,0, you should be good. But if you have a 2,3, be carefull if you are hate vibrations like I do. Volvo had to put balance shafts on one of their 4cylinder engines, when they went up to 2,4L.
 
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