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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Thanks. It helped that I spent the 3 weeks before last weekend staring longingly out the window through the snow towards the garage, and used that time to order all the parts I needed.
It was also my first time using all new hardware for a brake job, and let me tell ya', it makes a huge difference!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I drove this car to the alignment shop yesterday. Took a picture with my potato-phone on the way.



My friend that is doing the alignment called me today. The good news is, all he had to set was the toe, the thing is good to go on that front.

The bad news is I'll be doing a new passenger rear brake line, brake hose, and caliper, plus shop labor (damn, I wish this popped in my driveway instead). Apparently when he got in the shop today after I dropped it off last night, he found brake fluid under the back. The line was bad near the back, and he cut the bad out, but couldn't get the fitting off the hose, which I think was very close, I still haven't seen it. And then he followed the hose up to the caliper and the bleeder screw is basically already gone.

Parts are on order and I should be driving it Friday evening, barring further trouble. Don't drive cars you like in salty weather, friends.
 

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Too bad about the brake leak, but it wasn't all bad news and you're progressing. :th_MySaab900Like:

Nice licence plate...LOL.
 

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Good stuff, keep it up.

My 85 has never seen snow/salt. It's been easier to work on then any other SAAB I've ever owned here in New England thanks to the lack of rusted/seized nuts and bolts and what not.
 

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That license plate. Love it. What's next steps for this car? Now that she's fairly solid are you just gonna hoon her for awhile?
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
This year's plan is to drive it as much as possible and fix all the old-car type problems that pop up along the way. It was a year round daily till about 2009 and then I think it's gotten maybe 3k on it since then, mostly from me. I hope to get the thing *actually* reliable by the end of the season, and do some work on it over the winter to make it a little nicer, interior stuff, radio, etc.
Eventually I envision a T5 swap with a little bigger turbo, but that's a long way away from where it's at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Have a question for the convertible guys: I'm looking into getting the 5 pc spoiler from a later car that goes all the way up to the A pillars. I have taken off the smaller side pieces before and I know about the wingnut-on-a-wire setup for the rear most mounting point. Do the later spoilers have this same set up?
 

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No. The rearmost is a stud on the spoiler that pushes into a plastic grommet in the body. Same for the front (of the rear wing). The middle of the rear wing has a nut on the stud, easy to access if the top is down. Door wings have a screw at each end, and a stud/grommet in the middle
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Thanks for the response!
Based on that, follow up questions:
Do I need the plastic grommet in the body to make the upgrade?
Is the grommet in the same place in the body as the mounting hole for the older style spoiler?
Is there a place to attach the screws for the door pieces, or does it mean drilling new holes in my doors?

I looked for a build thread where someone did this and I imagine I could find pictures and stuff like that, but I came up dry. If anybody has any pics or links like that I'd really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
The spoiler issue is probably on hold. Tonight I will be attempting to replace a rear hard line for the brakes that decided to pop itself yesterday.
Starting to think I might as well order a cover for the pedal right now, as I don't think my brake system overhaul is going to end until its all new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I decided not to touch the brakes myself, and let a pro deal with it at the same time I had it in for new tire installation.
Got a call this morning from my friend at the shop, he said the tires are on, but he's not touching the brakes. Great. He said he didn't want to start a huge project and then find out we can't get any of the parts that he expects to break on removal.
Anybody have any experience with rear brakes? My friend said something about a block with lots of lines running into it in the back near the axle?
I'll have to jack it up tonight at take some photos.
 

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I decided not to touch the brakes myself, and let a pro deal with it at the same time I had it in for new tire installation.
Got a call this morning from my friend at the shop, he said the tires are on, but he's not touching the brakes. Great. He said he didn't want to start a huge project and then find out we can't get any of the parts that he expects to break on removal.
Anybody have any experience with rear brakes? My friend said something about a block with lots of lines running into it in the back near the axle?
I'll have to jack it up tonight at take some photos.
That's just the junction for the rear lines. There will be one line running to it from under the rear seat. Two lines branch off the junction, one for each caliper.

It is really easy to make your own brand new lines from Nicopp and probably cheaper than buying new Saab parts.

Spray a whole bunch of penetrating oil on all the fittings and let it sit over night. When you go to work on the lines they will free up much easier.

Most importantly, buy yourself a set of quality metric flare-nut wrenches. Craftsman is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Thanks for the response!

Turns out I misunderstood my friend. He DID fix the leak. What he didn't fix was the "S" line coming out of the junction block, which isn't leaking (yet). I still have yet to jack up the car and look at what's going on in and out of that block, that will come this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Got over a thousand miles on this car so far this year!:th_MySaab900Like:

Today's issue I'm looking at: car is stuck in base boost and has been that way since I got it.

Have confirmed that I am not getting +12V on the yellow wire to the APC solenoid. Have tested my APC box by hooking it up to another car. My cruise control is functional. I have confirmed that the yellow wire can pass power between the APC connector and the APC solenoid plug.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Update to my question:

I've found evidence on the internet to indicate that there should be a "blue capped switch" on the driver's side fender to limit boost when cruise control is active. I also read that if there's a fault with that switch then APC cuts power to the solenoid. My problem: I can't find the switch. I did find it in my dad's '87, and I can't even find the wires in my car. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Two plus years later, I figured I'd update this.

Mostly I just drive this car, it's ugly, but it's a convertible, and the exhaust sounds great, so why not.

I did get it finally boosting correctly last week. I replaced a bunch of parts using used spares off the shelf chasing base boost symtoms, diff AIC, MAF, temp sensor, etc. Started looking through wiring diagrams, everything looked right, but still no voltage to the APC solenoid. Was messing around with a multimeter, and I managed to make my wipers sweep while I was probing the "APC" connector.

Turns out, when I pulled the motor a few years back I must have plugged the washer pump plug into the APC solenoid. I never figured this out because I still have not reinstalled the washer bottle. Once I plugged the right wires in, I now have regulated boost. Whoops.

The odd part is, the car always had base boost, even before I pulled the motor, all the way back to the first time I drove it in '08ish long before I owned it. So something I swapped must've helped too, but I have no idea what.
 

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Congrats on getting it sorted. I'm sure we all have similar mistakes and miraculous mysteries, good for you figuring it out!
 
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