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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


I got this car for free based on the fact that I promised to drive it and take care of it.

256K on the body. Motor believed to be original. 5 speed trans is miraculously working fine/not whining and even has a cool short shift modification of which the origin is unknown.

So. Much. Rust. Some of it covered up with bad body work and worse paint.

None of that is what I have questions about at this point. I need to know about windshields for these old 'verts. I know they're different from the rest of the c900s (of course they are because I have a good used from a 3-door). I wasn't able to come up with any useful (current) info regarding availablility/installation of a new windshield. Has anybody tried having one replaced recently, or have any suggestions about where to look for info?
I drive east in the morning and this thing is basically un-driveable due to the severe pitting/sandblasting.

I'll use this thread to ask all of my weird questions that I can't search out on my own. Thanks in advance for helping keep this thing on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
OK, new question about this car, this one related to the rust. I determined yesterday that the front mounting point of the lower control arm on the passenger side is basically completely effed. I found a site that is selling replacement metal to weld in that general area, and wondering if anybody on here has ever used the stuff.
I know there's a thread here somewhere that I read at some point about fixing that area yourself, but I'm curious about this option.

https://www.autorust.com/product/front-control-arm-right-saab-900-art-030-r/

EDIT:
Found and read JK's post about DIY'ing using home made parts very similar to those at the link (and the ensuing legal discussion). Once I confer with the guy I want to do the work, I think I'll be purchasing the kit from autorust and have it professionally installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Today, I was downshifting from 5th to 3rd on an exit ramp @ ~50MPH. I have done this before and it hasn't been a problem. This time, I heard a crunch from the trans, so I stopped pushing for 3rd. Left it in neutral, coasted to stop. Try 3rd, it's difficult, but it goes in with no noises. Same with 4th. Difficult to get out of both gears once in them. Other gears work as normal.
What did I break?
 

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You could pop the right rear cover off where the shift selector forks are and see if it's something obvious, like the ball detent in the 3-4 selector rod got messed up or something. You should be able to disconnect the selector rod from the linkage (drift pin I think) and move the forks by hand to see if the shaft is bent or the syncros are messed up, or if it's the selector rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You could pop the right rear cover off where the shift selector forks are and see if it's something obvious, like the ball detent in the 3-4 selector rod got messed up or something. You should be able to disconnect the selector rod from the linkage (drift pin I think) and move the forks by hand to see if the shaft is bent or the syncros are messed up, or if it's the selector rod.
Thanks for the reply!

When you say pop the cover off, I assume you mean on the transmission itself? I have been in the office since I broked it and haven't had a chance to go back out and take a look at anything.
 

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Oh, yes. Jack the car up, and remove the rear right side cover. Removing the front one might help with visibility too. If you remove the downpipe it makes visibility easier, but isn't a requirement. It's pretty tight in there unfortunately.

When you remove the rear cover I believe one of the detent springs pushes against the cover, so remove it slowly and make sure it doesn't spring out or you drop it or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for clarifying, Drew.
An update on this: I drove the car home fine, luckily out of a 25mi commute <1 is off highway, so I was able to stick to 1st, 2nd, and 5th. When I got on to my street I decided to try 3rd and 4th. They work fine. I can upshift, downshift, everything. If I sit in the driveway with the car running and try to move the shifter through the gears, most work fine, some get difficult at times and necessitate shifting to another gear before I can get the original gear I wanted. Ex. If I wanted 3rd but felt resistance, shifting to 2nd or 5th might line things up to let me get 3rd.
Does this shed any light on my situation?
I also forgot to mention yesterday, this car is equipped with a short shift mod that was done long before I got it. I have no history or info on the car or where the shift mod came from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Take your time. It's all in a Google doc right now until I can get its own website. I think I have about 55 MCYs and maybe 30 platana grays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Last night, decided to stop off where I store this car and grab it for the beautiful weather today. About halfway home, which is ~20mi, I got the battery light on and the voltmeter was reading 11v. Made it home, checked the connections at the battery and alternator, and couldn't find anything out of place. Found that the date code on the battery puts it about 4.5 years old. Replaced the battery this morning, same problem.

I'm thinking my alternator bit it, but that somewhat surprises me given that I installed new brushes/voltage regulator, and all new bushings in April. The only other weird bit is that both last night and this morning when I was getting it back to storage, it had about a 2 minute span where the voltage was reading ~13.2 ish and the battery light was off. One of these instances I was rolling about 35 in 4th, the other was highway speeds in 5th.

Also, once I got the car back to storage, I raised all the windows and the top and the voltage reading on the gauge never dropped. The top and windows functioned completely as normal, i.e. not slow or anything. The headlights were also not dim when I was driving it in the dark last night.

So, alternator time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update on this:
It's been sitting immobile since my last post. I drove it home with the battery light on. So it still needs the alternator replaced. I never fixed the alternator because I took a closer look at the control arm area and decided that even if it ran, I wouldn't want to drive it, so it sat.
Now for the good part:
Last week I got some good news from my Saab tech buddy, actually the same guy that gave me the car.
He's been looking for parts cars for me, and for another friend that had his son center punch an otherwise perfect C900 in the core support. Apparently he called Goldwing and we are having the front section of a clean 900 shipped to us to be divided up to fix both cars.
I just got off the phone with the guy I had look at the rot on my vert earlier this year, and he's still on board to fix it. When he looked at it he said to me "If you want to fix this car, buy another one and bring me both."
Now, we just have to wait for the part and see how much work it's going to be. Probably time to pull the motor to facilitate the body repair.
 

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Bummer about the rust, it would be nice to keep a legit MCY on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
With the condition this car is in, the only reason it's still around is because it's MCY. 255K, needs a turbo, a top in the next few years, everything is either rusty, repainted, or both. But, I'm hopeful I may get to drive it a little this fall depending how long it takes to organize the control arm R&R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the engine out this weekend. At the rate things are going, I stand a small chance of being able to drive this thing again before winter:

Had Lou help me disconnect the shifter:






And, the new chunk to be installed:


I also need to fix a lower rad hose, alternator, and a motor mount or two while it's out of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In making the above post, I realize I forgot to take pics of the actual rust that will be repaired. Trust me, it's bad.
 

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In making the above post, I realize I forgot to take pics of the actual rust that will be repaired. Trust me, it's bad.
Props for fixing this car.

I bet the rust is bad. Usually when a c900's wheel arc's are that rusty there is nothing left underneath
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good thing the driver's side has been covered in oil for its whole life, otherwise I'd be doing the entire front clip.
 
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