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9-5 Performace clutch recommendations

5.6K views 36 replies 13 participants last post by  StX221  
#1 ·
I am looking for a recommendation for a preformace clutch to install in my 2000 9-5 with approx 300 whp. I may go more so I don't want to have to pull the trans again.

Most important is drivalbility. I need a refined clutch like the stock that will handle the hp and torque. Nick T says the aero clutch is fine but I am just looking for anyone with experience with something else before I commit.

The 9-5 Monster has a Spec III and Dave says it is good but a bit pricy, Anyone have any other opinions ( like I had to ask?)
 
#2 ·
Nick (stx221) has the aero clutch and PP running 260/300 at the wheels and he says its great. I think he's had it in there for a good 10k miles or so by now. I'm sure he'll tell you its great.
 
#3 ·
yup, ive got the aero clutch disk/pressure plate. like seth said, 265/300 to the wheels, and its great. great driveability, and it always holds. i had one in the car for about 11k miles, before the trans blew up and destroyed the disk/PP. when it came out of the car, it looked very good, lots of material left, only a little bit of rust on the rivets. but nothing that wouldnt be expected. too bad the disk cracked, and the PP was scrunched up from the peice of the spider gear that was flung at them...

and if you ask these guys, i do drive the car hard, so it can hold it in real world situations. its not like i baby the damn thing and never hit boost of any kind.

so when the trans blew and i needed a new disk/PP, it was obvious what was going back in!

if you have any more questions, dont hesitate to post em up, or even PM me.


ps. what have you done to your 9-5 for 300whp? an 18t? disco?
 
#5 ·
and if you ask these guys, i do drive the car hard, so it can hold it in real world situations. its not like i baby the damn thing and never hit boost of any kind.
Yep he definitely beats the crap out of his car.

I'm no 9-5 expert, but you might be able to get away with one of the lower stage SPEC clutches (1 w/organic disc maybe?). Not sure what they cost.
 
#4 ·
Hi STX, its still a work in progress ( not 300 yet but that the goal) I put in a Big GT28 from a 9000 and T5 cams and 50# injectors, forged pistons ( plus all the rest - stock location Bar and plate IC, delivery pipe blah blah blah.)

I am trying to go as high as I can with the total stock look ( avoiding tubular manifold) Needs some custom tuning but now the the clutch is slipping.

Yours is the first 5spd blow up I have heard about. Was your tune too torqued up early? I am worried about the trans but Dave's Monster has held together no? I am going to do the trans now that I'll be pulling it for the clutch. I bought a Chevy colbolt 5spd and I am going to swap all the internals and will have the nice Quaiffe LSD with close ratio gears like the viggen.

I'll be in Boston on Nov 17 so maybe there will be a Swedish tune in my future too...

BTW I am sure I am the oldest guy....
 
#6 · (Edited)
I saw that the maptun set-up supposedly drives like stock and Dave said his spec III in the monster is refined like the stock set-up ( but at 800+ with slave cylindar is a bit ouch) Others have said that the Stage I and II Spec are a bit grabby so I am not interested. And I drive like the old man I am so I guess the Aero is on target ( as long as I can try a few runs at the drag strip and maybe an autoX once in a while without needing the new clutch.) I'll be able to save a few $$ too.

thanks for the feedback
 
#7 ·
I would go with a Spec stg.2r (should behave just like stock), stg.3 would be a bit much for 300whp in my opinion! And besides if you plan on adding any more hp you will be needing new pistons, connecting rods etc.. If thats the route you plan on going than I would look into a stg.3+ setup.

The stock aero clutch will only last so long with 300whp, my car was making 251whp and 312wtq for about a year before it started slipping @ about 56,000 miles.

MY $.02
Rob
 
#8 ·
I would go with a Spec stg.2r (should behave just like stock), stg.3 would be a bit much for 300whp in my opinion! And besides if you plan on adding any more hp you will be needing new pistons, connecting rods etc.. If thats the route you plan on going than I would look into a stg.3+ setup.
I already did the Pistons, the stock rods are ok I was told. I guess I will look into the SPEC ( we'll see what it will cost) I am thinking I may go hogher so I may wnat to be prepared so I don't have t re-fit the clutch later.

The stock aero clutch will only last so long with 300whp, my car was making 251whp and 312wtq for about a year before it started slipping @ about 56,000 miles.

MY $.02
Rob
BTW I got the Colbalt trans it is on its way!!!
 
#9 ·
I have driven Dave's car with his high duty cltuch and I will say that it was much lighter than my SPEC 6-puck disc and Viggen PP. It felt like some subarus I've driven in pedal feel, and was as smooth as my car was with the stock clutch. I would say do this upgrade.

The only downside I have heard about putting "too much" clutch in a car is that the weakest point may become something else. What I mean is that with my trans, the clutch will slip before I put too much stress on important components. I mean I can still beat up the trans over time, but if I got and drop the cluth with too much torque, it will slip before I over stress something. Something to consider.
 
#10 ·
Thanks I'll consider the slipping to protect the trans theory another reason to go Aero. I am going to switch the internals with a Colbalt SS trans with Quaife LSD so I am thinking it may handle the stress better. Not that it is any stronger but it is geared the same a as a Viggen so it might be better in handling torque.
 
#11 ·
Talking with dave before SCD about SPEC clutches he voiced his opinion on not mixing oem clutch parts w/spec ones....ie use the spec pressure plate and spec disc.

The SPEC stg 1 I've got in my 9k is very easy to drive, holds power, just engages a bit different then an oem setup.
 
#12 ·
And Nick T assured me it was okay to mix the SPEC disc with Viggen PP, but that was before he sold the SPEC PP. Now that he sells it I bet I'd get a different story....

Are you sure the Cobalt trans will give you that much benefit? I've heard not so much as people think....
 
#13 ·
I am doing it mainly for the LSD. The trans only has 2K miles on it so I am swapping the gears. My trans needed the update rebuild anyway ( hard shifting into 2nd 3rd, so I will get all the parts from the colbalt. In general the gears are the same as a viggens' so I at least will get that.

Most people mistakingly believe it might be stronger but the gearset is only as strong as the viggen's. I beleive the lower rations might make it handle torque better.

We'll see
 
#14 ·
Stromer.. on the 9-3 stage 3 spec kit.. that is too much for 99% of the cars out there.. I have seen 415wheel tq on my vig with no slipping.. Running that setup. ;) The mix of a more aggressive disk with the middle of the road viggen PP is the best setup we have found. They drive much nicer. We put it on there when people started asking..
 
#15 ·
Hi Nick we chatted about the Aero set-up for my car earlier in the week and I posted to get other opinions. For the 9-5, you are saying the Aero set-up is good up to a good amont of Wtq like your viggen or would a middle of the road be some kind of mix and match) I am just about ready to order the Aero set for many of the reasons you mention and the comments here.
 
#16 ·
I am going to need to upgrade my 9-5 clutch soon too. I am starting to get a slight bit of slip when the boost first comes on, but then it grabs fine. I am not going to bother with a viggen pressure plate, I intend to go right to the Spec stage 3. it works GREAT in my spg, and aside from the "hair trigger" which one can easily become accustom to, it's been an excellent clutch!
 
#19 ·
I've got an Aero with 25k. I've been running around 300hp for the last year or so and the clutch is already getting too slippy and won't be long before it's trashed and needs to be upgraded. I would not suggest this clutch if you are going that big with the turbo. Spend the extra coin and get the right part for your plans.
 
#27 ·
before I bought the actual tool, I used some thick copper wire. worked well, but it would deform when ever you put it in or took it out. the nice thing about the saab "tool" is that it has a tab on it that makes it a tad easier to remove, and it keeps it's shape even if you pull real hard on it.

worth the $15? yes, but only if you work on C-900's very often cause it makes it a little easier. otherwise you can use a bunch of different things... thick wire, brake line, bunch of pennies :lol: even a hub cap spring can work (handy for junk yard trans removals when you have forgotten your tool)
 
#29 ·
Thought I'd bring this thread back up cause it's getting about clutch time for me.

I've got a standard aero with 235 whp and 240 wtq. I plan to upgrade things to around 300 whp and 320 wtq in a year or so when I graduate. What I want is a clutch that grabs hard enough for me to launch the car in 2nd gear. I know my car has the torque to do it, but the standard organic clutch just can't handle that amount of slippage and quickly overheats and burns if I attempt it. I'm thinking about a SPEC stage 3, but there's something different. SPEC now makes clutchs in the larger 240mm aero size and they're $200 cheaper to boot.

So is a SPEC stg 3 grabby enough to do what I want, but still light enough to drive everyday? Would it be better to use a Stg 3 disc with a Aero pressure plate instead of a SPEC?