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You shouldn't be tightening a bolt. (unless krona sends new hardware)
It should be a stud. If you're having problems, take it out, chase the threads, and re-install a new stud, and new nut/washer.

The last thing you want is a snapped stud in the exhaust housing.
 

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Heard of them hitting the ground, but big DPs can be a pain in more than one way.
 

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I just installed my 3 inch Krona pipe yesterday. I used the original studs on the exhaust housing since the new hardware wouldn't thread in more than 3 turns. Didn't have a 100% match in my tap and die kit either. Getting the back nut on closet to the motor was a pain in the ass. I used a pair of channel locks and got on it straight and twisted (put my arm between the battery and charge pipe to squeeze the channel locks).

If anyone else has a better way, i'm all ears!
 

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Thread the back one into position first (make sure the threads are clean on stud and nut - metric tap/die) to where you want it, then support the dp and tighten the other two against the first until the flanges are parallel.

Doing that way you almost don't need tools for the first one.
 
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