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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as was done here previously:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155275

it can now be done much cheaper, and with much less work.

Using the Morimoto mini Bi xenon projectors. cirrently they come in H1, but there is a note on the website about coming in D2S soon. i picked up the kit for $285 shipped form retrofitsource.com.

the key to this is that the back end of the projectors has a threaded tube which allows the use of a locking ring for mounting. the kit comes with an H4/9003 adapter ring, which is basically the base of a bulb, allowing you to use the factory mounting hole making maintaining alignment and lots of other things simple.



follow the old tutorial for separating the headlights. disassembly is pretty quick and easy, just be careful to not break any clips, they can take some decent force tho, although dont need much.

my suggestion - the previous method was to put a large object behind the reflector and crank the adjusters all the way out. that didnt work for me. if you twist the aimers counter clockwise they will come undone from the housing, and you can then pull them out of their clips pretty easily.

CAUTION if you see clips like below, you cant just pull things out, they have 4 little feet that must be released from the housing



i painted my housings a high heat aluminum color to look factory-ish. i did 3 coats of a heavy duty wheel paint to hold up during assembly, and then did 3 coats of the 500 degree paint.

you also should drill a hole in the bottom to run the high beam activator wire out of the housing.



the projectors have 4 mounting holes that can be used, but since we dont use there here, i searched around and found mention that they can leak light and cause some weird hotspots, so i covered them with some aluminum tape.

the holes


covered


Next is to go about setting up the mounting. i chose to glue my adapter to the housing just for extra stability, but i dont think it is absolutely necessary.

the kit comes with two washers, i put one to be on the inside of the housing, then used the rubber one on the outside.





for even more stability i also utilized the factory bulb spring to hold everything in place



at this point you are ready to reassemble everything. i suggest connecting the one stationary mounting point first, then the aimer with the twist handle, then the little black one. that gives the most stability to push against for each one. again they dont take a lot of force, just hold the reflector housing with one hand, then push the aimer back in, the twist it back into its location in the housing.

you can see everything still lines up just like stock



from the front



the shrouds take about 5 minutes of cutting, the amount and location will vary by which shrouds you get.

complete



i ran the beams through regular US glass, and you still get a cutoff. it appears that you may get a little extra upward scatter with that glass.

i now have my e-codes in front of the projectors, and will check out the beam tonight. if this doesnt look too bad i may not clear the glass right away.

if you choose to clear the glass, these projectors have a very small focal point, which is a good thing, so it would appear that you can clear out a pretty small circle just in front of the projector instead of clearing the whole lense. this will be the method i use when i get around too it.
 

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Awesome to see someone else go for this... There is a guy on hidplanet.com that did plastic lenses on his Nissan. They came out great. He molded them himself and are a million times better than defluted glass. When you deflute glass lenses, you'll have a wavyness to it that will throw off the cutoff as well.

I'd love to see some output pictures and headons.
 

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I need to try this!!!!!!

Just wait until I get another 9k;)
what happened to the nice black 92 9k you had? think i heard you lost a battle against a honda...

im guessing that c900 is a new car to replace the 9k, something the shop gave you i persume... how is following the rest of the crowed going for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i went out with the ecodes on tonight and in all honesty im probably not going to clear the lense. there is next to no loss of cutoff, and no increased scatter.

i have to find a flat wall i can get 25 feet away from so i can aim to spec, but they are pretty close right now.

the light output is friggin nuts, i can finally see shit.
 

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If the results are good, this may well mean there will be a whole lot more NG900/OG9-3s running around with projector retrofits. I bought two headlight assemblies, ballasts, and projectors for cheap but I abandoned the project after it became a $600+ job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If the results are good, this may well mean there will be a whole lot more NG900/OG9-3s running around with projector retrofits. I bought two headlight assemblies, ballasts, and projectors for cheap but I abandoned the project after it became a $600+ job.
the results are beyond good trust me.

once i can eliminate the bulb failure warning it will be even better.
 

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I've been planning the FX-R retrofit, but this seems to be more sensible. All I need to sell me are some output shots. I still want to do plastic lenses at some point.
 

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I had a Response for you, but I forgot,

I would have like to insult you, but the sad truth is that you wouldn't understand me.
Nobody arouns to give you help im betting, its ok jp not butt hurt like you obvisouly are still. Sorry 4 hacking the thread im done now

Take it easy jp im all out of cheese
 

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