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Discussion Starter #1
I need a recommendation on a tool to read info from OBDII on this car.
Was looking at ScanTool.net LLC - Scan Tools, PC, iPhone, & Android based OBD-II (OBD2) Interfaces, OBD diagnostic software and looking to buy their top of the line pro version. I am unsure if it will give full support for this vehicle and sure I could ask there but you guys will have actually have used it or another and can recommend based on experience using one of these tools with a Saab.
Now, my problem and reason for getting the tool is this:
I have code P0327, knocksensor. There isnt a knock sensor. Mechanic wanted to replace MAF which I did and still the same code. I got the code when I had a 93 octane tank of gas and switched to 87. Today I had an empty tank so filled with 93 and didnt get a code for about a half hour. Well, maybe got the code but no check engine light til I turned the car off and then back on.
The car gets about 24mpg rather than 30 and is sluggish. Will not enter the red of the turbo gauge.
After 93 octane fill up and replacing MAF I did feel like I got better performance and I was getting 30mpg again, but still got the code and engine light. Oh, puffs of black/brown smoke on acceleration for 5 minutes or so after start up. Turbo screeches rather than whines. I know the turbo has issues but its been this way for a year and a half and the code showed up only this month. The smoke has been around for a long time to.
Mechanic wants to replace turbo... okay, I will replace it but not right now if I can help it. I would rather know exactly what is giving me the code and the terrible gas mileage when I use 87octane. (remember I still get the code but not the bad mileage when I use 93octane, of course maybe I would be getting better with 93 if it was fixed)
So I want an ultra scan tool to hook up to the computer and hopefully diagnose what the problem is rather than replace part after part til it all comes together.
Uriah
 

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Never had a problem with a device not being able to read codes. I am pretty sure there are no special codes that the average scanner cant read.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its not as much about reading codes. I know the code. Its about getting information like this:
ScanTool.net LLC -
And that will help to find out what the problem is because right now just knowing the code is not producing an answer for whats wrong with the car.
By the way a year ago I did drop the oil pan and it was beautiful. 140k on the car.
 

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Ah I see.

Well, the 2001 9-5 is pretty easy to make run well. I see you replaced the MAF and the car has 140k. How old are the plugs and how old in the Direct Ignition cassette. Two things that make a turbo car mad when they are failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replaced the plugs two weeks ago, after the problem had started. Is the DIC that thing that when it fails sends the car into Limp Home mode? When I first got the car in 2003 (its a 2001) I had something replaced that had sent me to limp home mode and was apparently a common problem. Wish I could remember what it was.
I could test tomorrow using this procedure http://www.thesaabsite.com/Saab DI Cassette replacement.html
Toward middle of the page it tells how to test it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the link. Not really what I am looking for though. I want to get data like this
ScanTool.net LLC -
out of it.
Maybe it will work fine, was hoping someone had success with this tool or one a lot like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great! I thought you got one of the other scanners mentioned in that thread. Okay, so you have full functionality of this scanner with your SAAB? If thats the case I think I have a purchase lined up.
 

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Wish I could tell you for sure but I have yet to hook it up to my Viggen. I know it does have similar if not the same screenshots as what you showed.
 

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You need to get that car to a shop that knows SAABs.

P0327 is not a fault for 'a knock sensor,' the code definition is actually:

P0327 - "Low input voltage from knock sensor circuit, Bank 1."

Usually this is an internal problem in the direct ignition cassette, that's the black cartridge that holds the ignition coils. All Trionic SAABs use the DI cassette to measure knock by firing the plugs at times other than for normal ignition. Knock sensing is done in two banks, Bank 1 is cyls 1+2, and Bank 2 is cyls. 3+4.

P0327 is set when there is an open or short in the knock sensing part of the circuit from the DI. Knock sensing is powered by pins 6 & 7 in the DI connector.

First check to see if you have about +5v across pins 6 & 7.

If you do, replace the DI cassette.

If you don't, the wires go directly to the ECU and will need to be repaired.

*****************

Lastly, while your Aero will run on 87, don't push it too hard with 87 in it, the ECU runs the engine on the verge of knocking almost all the time even with 91/93 fuel, and if anything is a little out of spec damage will happen much faster with 87 than with 91/93, especially if your turbo is on the way out (good example of something out of spec right there.)

Small air leaks in the intake, carbon build up in the chambers, plug gap too large, injector flow slightly restricted, etc., will all hinder the system's ability to work right.

I insist all of my customers with turbocharged SAABs use the highest octane fuel they can find from a name brand pump. It's well documented that the high ethanol content in winter fuel blends in the states where it's very cold kills O2 sensors and cats if everything in the system isn't working perfectly.

Use 87 on long highway trips when you're not doing any hard accelerating on it, and drive it gently until you can fill back up with premium. It only makes a difference of a few dollars per tank anyway.

I only fill 91+ in my personal 9-5 Linear (base) with the 170hp engine BTW. Of course I also always change with fully synthetic oil @ 3k intervals and ATF change every 10k or so, but I know not every car sees that level of maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Drew I will test your 5V on pins 6 and 7 with my DMM tomorrow. I left the car at a dealer while we test drive a Mazda5. Not a replacement for the Saab but for the minivan.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have really wanted one of these tools. I think as long as the tool shown by ninety5aero works well then another by the same manufacturer should work well also. I got the OBDLink SX scan tool for 49.99 from Amazon. It should be here Saturday.
Amazon.com: OBDLink SX Scan Tool USB Interface w/ OBDwiz Diagnostic Software: Automotive
Will try the DIC tests tomorrow and as soon as I get my scan tool will post some pics if I dont already have an answer from the test.
Uriah
 

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While they have it, I'd ask the tech to check out the total fuel correction and airmass deviation. I check it on every T7 car that comes in just to make sure things are working smooth. I wouldn't think they'd charge anything extra for it, as it's just two more clicks on the Tech 2 to read it. If you're running 87, pushing the car, and have some airmass deviation, that's the perfect storm for a blown piston.

-Chad
 

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Discussion Starter #16
P0327 is set when there is an open or short in the knock sensing part of the circuit from the DI. Knock sensing is powered by pins 6 & 7 in the DI connector.

First check to see if you have about +5v across pins 6 & 7.

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Hi again and thanks for that response. I am heading out to test it. A bit behind the times arent I? Anyway I pulled the connector from the DI. Am I right that I should turn the ignition to ON and then, with the connector NOT connected to the DI, measure voltage on 6 and 7 on the connector? I think its right but want to be sure. Also is pin 1 the pin with no metal contacts in it and do I count the two rows starting at pin 1 and going to the right and then starting again on the left? How do I know which are 6 and 7 I guess is what I need to know.
Uriah
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went out and checked on my hunch about which are 6 and 7. I removed the connector and tested the first two from left to right on the bottom row. The bottom row being the one that has metal contacts in each hole.
I got 4.9V, basically 5V
So, if its not connected to the DI at the time that I am testing it, then how does that point to a fault in the DI?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I dont have oil on the tops of my plugs as seems the test instructions are a bit worried about. Very clean up there. I vacuumed a little dirt out of the housing where the DI fits into with a shop vac. The plugs are about 1k miles old. They have black all over them, carbon not oil. I wonder if its normal for them to be full of carbon already. For sure the old plugs had much more build up on them.
Uriah
 
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