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Hey all, recently picked up a 1991 Saab 9000 turbo 5 speed. Car was not well taken car of but after swapping in another dic I drove it home. I've since replaced plugs, had one dic die on me, think.my.other one is going..

So symptoms,
Cold start starts the immediately dies unless I give it throttle. Once warmed up idles even but feels rough. Would run no problem down the highway just fine but seems to be in base boost. I swapped in a new cts sensor between the intake manifold runners and now the car seems to idle when cold but runs MUCH tougher at idle and seems to be breaking up under load.

I ordered a new maf and it made the car undrivable so I either got the wrong part of a bad one out of the box.

Cel doesn't flash with key on so any direction on diagnosing this misfire and getting the car running right would be much appreciated!
 

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Hi, what is the relevance here "Car was not well taken car of.....(and) .. but after swapping in another dic I drove it home"...Are you saying it has been sitting around a long time?...or that it has been badly treated and shows it in interior exterior and general filth in engine bay and under car....steering and brakes.Unless you are in USA 9000 parts are getting scarcer....I own a 91 2.3 Carlsson but would be reluctant now to buy any 9000 but a well kept one...and say carlsson,aero or anniversary...in that order and keep it for occasional outings but maintained well in fuel and coolant all the same...picking up parts here and there. They are the best of the SAABs but are just getting scarce. I'm just going to rattle-off some generalisations here and try to get you onto a pathway rather than a maze.

On cassettes. .You are not clear. They don't last forever. If you have chinese replacements they sometimes don't last 'around the block'...notoriously unreliable. Was the cassette in the car (at purchase) crook?.....was it in this car that another died? Make sure your cassette is genuine SAAB....and a red pack, not black

I don't know what are 'inlet manifold 'runners' however why replace the coolant sensor (yes?) and the MAF (which are usually expensive). This is a sort of approach where you keep throwing money at the car and eventuallly get sick of the whole business... If you haven'ta 9000 manual then buy one. Have you checked your MAF part number?...was it 'new' or reco'd?....I have found the wrong part being sent when buying a reco'd unit.Your thinking "maybe it's wrong" indicates you are not doing due diligence on part numbers. Do it now...then number on the MAF case...not the box.

There are some 'basics' you seem to have not undertaken.

BTW there is a fuel system for providing adequate fuel for cold running...I might have given that some thought. Your injectors may also be dirty.

BTW also is the braking good?

If the car has been badly kept keep in mind the computer may have had condensation in it. Again computers die with age. Yours should as working maybe ok at present. It seems your car is not a Carlsson..they use the rarer 'red' computer....the car would likely be marked as 'Carlsson". I'd worry about the computer last, reading what you have written...do the basics.

You should have 'read' the plugs you removed to get an idea of engine condition...maybe you still can do that, or ask a mechanic. What's your battery Terminal potential difference when the car is running?

SAAB 9000's commonly deteriorate the hoses in the vauum lines ,,,sometimes they are missing. The turbo line to the gauge also not uncommonly rots away.( Turbo's die....is yours operating? Do you see any movement in the gauge under acceleration?) ..

I'd start by new fuel after cleaning out tank...then guage rather than 'squirt" to check fuel pressure.After a long time sitting the fuel will be 'off'' even if you poured in some new fuel, ,The tank should have been drained and fuel replaced. If the car has used E10 (ethanol) fuel at any stage it is quite possible the fuel rubber has rotted out in the tank, allowing dominantly fumes to be sucked ....that's what that dreadful fuel does to cars not designed for it. Your pressure testing will tell ...The idle control is notorious for gumming up...a little awkward to get-at but well worth cleaning.

Check for bubbles or oil slick in coolant. By this age of the car coolant should be completely drained, block and radiator flushed and new coolant installed and the system correctly bled. Coolant left sitting in blocks becomes corrosive, Check your oil for any milkiness...indicating water in it....There could be a couple of reasons but one is engine coolant leaking into oil. These are just the sorts of things a mechanic will do at the outset. If the oil seems ok ...draining and replacing and refiltering is wise, but may not need to be done until your idling problems are resolved.

I'd be checking checking the old plugs if still there...and are your new ones correct type and setting?...Then do a compression test, SAAB's are also reasonably notorious for blowing head gaskets and then having poor work done in replacement, instead of head reco and block inspected for corrosion and straightness.

Once you know your basis are ok (or not) you can look at the peripherals. I'm giving broad responses...but have seen a motor which was fine before going to the mechanic ...came back with roughly your symptoms. They'd also damaged the mesh in the MAF...had the owner buy another and then said 'no difference"... and 'we starightened out the mesh'...the owner had inspected the MAF before sending the car away....some idiot there did the damage. The car ran roughly at idle but normally conked out until the car warmed...he had to keep throttling it....which is not as effective as in a carburettor car of course...He gave up eventually as the mechanics had obviously buggared something. So...find a good one who has SAAB experience...maybe an older mechanic...maybe ask around where you bought the car whether anyone there has its service history.

If compression is good and equal, fuel pressure is good and clean fuel...if injectors are good...been cleaned (or replaced) ..if cassette is ok and SAAB genuine red type....if you have no leaking vacuum hoses....if battery 'tpd'...(voltage) stays high when car running then fuel quantum at start up would be my first port of call....then the idle air control. If you can have your MAF checked by a MAF-reco place then you'll know whether it's ok or not....that's another worry dealt-with..then do so,,,,but what can you do now with the one you bought...It may actually be correct. As you say maybe iit is faulty...You have to try your return/testing options there. You can get the (electrical) resistances by the way and check them with a multimeter. (NOT a 'megger')
 
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