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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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The only thing I can see that you forgot is timing chain set, I would suggest a chain and the three guides being you’re doing everything else.
Other things you should consider is:
Gasket Eliminator 93 21 795 or Permitex gasket eliminator # 518
Engine to tranny gasket 75 14 946
Oil pump housing gasket 75 66 433
Thrust bearing 83 47 270
Of course you should think about a waterpump, t-stat, coolant, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter and those sort of things as well….
Then what about plastigauge for clearances of the bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it's always the obvious things we forget isn't it :p

Yeah - so what's this about :

  • Gasket Eliminator 93 21 795 or Permitex gasket eliminator # 518
    Then what about plastigauge for clearances of the bearings?

And yeah - timing chain slipped my mind, but i intended to get that too.

Rhich - for those Pre-APC pistons - what RINGS do I need? Are they the same as the other pistons? What year/model would I look up to get these rings - OR do you have a good set laying around? I know I need the 2.1L Intake gasket cause I am using a 2.1 head and intake which will be getting ported and polished and the valves re-seated. ( I need to get that going too soon - i gotta get the gaskets first so the machine shop knows their limits for porting)
 

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The Permatex 518 is used where they no longer make gaskets, for example the timing cover and rear alum plate…. Always good to have a tube of this lying around anyway.
As far as rings, I have to look in my note books (keep note books on everything) I believe it was a Mitsubishi top ring (better fitment) and Saab rings for the other two.
I found the Mitsu ring holds up better because of the clearances and I have had great luck with engines producing over 250 WHP and 30psi of boost using this ring combination.
Never use “used” rings….. plus I hope your going to hone the cylinders true and then file gap the new rings anyway…..
Double check the bore diameter on your 16V but the rings you should be looking at will be 1982-1983 8V turbo rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rhich said:
The Permatex 518 is used where they no longer make gaskets, for example the timing cover and rear alum plate…. Always good to have a tube of this lying around anyway.
Ahh - you mean RTV Gasket Sealer - I have that stuff
Rhich said:
As far as rings, I have to look in my note books (keep note books on everything) I believe it was a Mitsubishi top ring (better fitment) and Saab rings for the other two.
I found the Mitsu ring holds up better because of the clearances and I have had great luck with engines producing over 250 WHP and 30psi of boost using this ring combination. Never use "used" rings…..
Well when you find those notes (and I know you're busy) please let me know asap so I can place my parts order - and How many Saab rings do I need - 4? and then 4 of these unknown Mitsu rings?
Rhich said:
plus I hope your going to hone the cylinders true and then file gap the new rings anyway….. Double check the bore diameter on your 16V but the rings you should be looking at will be 1982-1983 8V turbo rings.
Well I'm not COMPLETELY sure how to set the piston ring gap - but I know some ppl who I'm sure would be more then happy to teach me, so I'll just hafta write that down to remember to do it :p As for the honing - I was planning to do that myself - rather simple to so as long as the block is rather clean to start with.
 

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BurnsSide42 said:
rings you should be looking at will be 1982-1983 8V turbo rings.
Well I'm not COMPLETELY sure how to set the piston ring gap - but I know some ppl who I'm sure would be more then happy to teach me, so I'll just hafta write that down to remember to do it :p [/quote]

It's pretty simple -

1) after the bore is machined, push the ring halfway down - use a piston to push it in so it's square and true

2) Measure the end gap with feeler gauges

3) Clamp a thin file in a vise and carefully run the ring back and forth over it (i.e. the file is "in" the gap)

4) Check and repeat until the gap is within spec

If you take off a bit too much, don't worry. It's much much better to be a bit over gapped than a bit under gapped.

How many Saab rings do I need - 4? and then 4 of these unknown Mitsu rings?
The pistons have three rings each - a compression ring on top, a secondary ring in the middle, and an oil control ring on the bottom. on each piston, use Saab rings for the two lower rings and the Mitsu part for the upper ring. You'll probably have to order a complete set of each brand of rings, as it's pretty uncommon to be able to buy individual rings or a partial set.

If you don't have one, go buy a Hayne's manual. The Bently manual for c900's is great for most stuff, but pretty much all Hayne's manuals have very good engine rebuilding sections. If you can't find one for a c900 just buy one for some other 4 cylinder car - the engine rebuilding procedure in any of them will give you plenty to work with.
 

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BurnsSide42 said:
I am using a 2.1 head and intake which will be getting ported and polished and the valves re-seated. ( I need to get that going too soon - i gotta get the gaskets first so the machine shop knows their limits for porting)
If you're just gasket matching, just get a die grinder or borrow or rent one and go at it yourself. Smoothly taper the size of the gasket openings into the first inch of each port. It's pretty hard to mess up - I wouldn't pay someone else to do it unless they were doing some pretty advanced work that required opening things up further than the stock gaskets.

Also, unless the valves are being replaced or are in terrible condition, you'll probably be fine just lapping them yourself. Again, something I wouldn't pay a machine shop to do unless more advanced work was required.

I wanna stress the Hayne's manual again. It has all the measuring, machining, checking, and assembly procedures outlined in pretty good detail. Even if you've got friends who know what they're doing it helps to be able to read and re-read the procedure several times before you even order the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
driver found said:
BurnsSide42 said:
I am using a 2.1 head and intake which will be getting ported and polished and the valves re-seated. ( I need to get that going too soon - i gotta get the gaskets first so the machine shop knows their limits for porting)
If you're just gasket matching, just get a die grinder or borrow or rent one and go at it yourself. Smoothly taper the size of the gasket openings into the first inch of each port. It's pretty hard to mess up - I wouldn't pay someone else to do it unless they were doing some pretty advanced work that required opening things up further than the stock gaskets.

Also, unless the valves are being replaced or are in terrible condition, you'll probably be fine just lapping them yourself. Again, something I wouldn't pay a machine shop to do unless more advanced work was required.

I wanna stress the Hayne's manual again. It has all the measuring, machining, checking, and assembly procedures outlined in pretty good detail. Even if you've got friends who know what they're doing it helps to be able to read and re-read the procedure several times before you even order the parts.
Yeah - well since I don't own any of those tools - and a local High Performance Shop is local and is owned by a friends Uncle - I'll take no chances and have it done right the first time - but for any other car I would deffinatly do it myself. I want this SPG to be perfect - or as good as it can get atleast.
 

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Sounds like things are well in hand here. The transmission is probably going to be a joint project with BS42's funding transmission parts, and me funding tools, etc to do it ;). It's in good working condition now, but it has some brassy metal bits on the oil and god only knows how many miles, thus needs a rebuild. I ordered the manuals from eeuroparts, so it will be out first attempt at that part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey - i plan to do the trans rebuild too! I wanna learn as well - unless you wanna take the "you break it you bought it" approach ;) then of course by all means give it all YOU got :p 8)
 

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I have a diff. cover full of that stuff in my basement. I scopped it out and slopped it in there... that was from a blow out gearcluster. has many 1/2 inch long metal bits in it.
 

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well I think a lot of the problem when you dump too much power into the C-900 trans, the gear case flexes and causes imperfect alignment to the gearsets. this will exponentially increase the stress in the gearset itself. I have a few ideas on how to strengthen the C-900 gearcase that are simple. for example, you could go buy about 30 tubes of JB weld and fill up all the “blocks” in the outside of the trans, specifically on the differential and in the mid-section.
 
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