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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK - I have a 1986 9000 - just finished putting the clutch in and a new slave cylinder (all OEM Saab) and I can't get the damn thing to bleed out right. I need this car TONIGHT to drive to NY for the Saab festival tomorrow...

I've tried gravity bleeding
I've tried 2nd person pumping slow or fast
I've tried bike PUMP on the fluid resevoir

Fluid comes out with no air - steady streams

Pedal does not catch until the last 15% of distance (almost on the floor) And it does NOT dis-engage the clutch enough to go into gears at this time.


Anyone have tips for these older cars? It's very frustrating now that I'm down to the wire and have so much time into trying to bleed this damn thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No leaks to be seen - line seems tight and was clean.

LOL it's still early and no Spell check on the work PC IE - but yes, ran into my garage this morning to grab my bike PUMP from my bike to use on my custom bleeder cap tool...

Just tried using a hand Vac pump with the bike pump - looked like air came out, but pedal still feels the same. I am leaving the bleeder open for 30 minutes to see what happens.
 

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When I did the Aero, I used a mity-vac on the slave cyl. After it was bled, I had to pump up the clutch....kinda weird.

The only other thing I can think of is that make sure the fluid level is above that braided line...that's the one for the clutch master. There's a compartment in the reservior just for the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I did the Aero, I used a mity-vac on the slave cyl. After it was bled, I had to pump up the clutch....kinda weird.
Just did that moments ago with no luck - as for the pumping the pedal, you say after it has steady stream of fluid, close the bleeder on the slave and then what - pump the tits out of the pedal and it will come up? I had to do that on my S-10 and it worked (self bleeding clutch apparently)

I don't recall having this much trouble on my 87' many many moons ago.... used the same cap tool to pump the air and fluid through and out of the system then and had no issues.
 

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Bad Master cylinder?

Sounds like Similar issues Heather just had with her clutch. Although that was a bad slave. Which you have already replaced (so it should be good).
 

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Fill the reservoir with fluid, add some compressed air through the pressure bleeder (10-25 PSI), then have someone crack the bleeder and fluid & air should come out. repeat this process till you have a working pedal. If this does not work, you can try to have a 3rd person pumping the pedal while this is going on, it may or may not help. Also remember that the fluid pick-up is way above the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, so keep a close eye on your fluid level when trying to do things like gravity bleed, as you can gravity bleed the system right out of fluid and have even more air than you have now in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got it - re-filled the resevoir - opened the bleeder and pump the bike pump like mad - and I got a lot of air then a blast right out and over the front of the car - did that for 1/4 of a resevoir and tightened it up - perfect pedal! Sometimes these cars really are annoying.... but in the end I'm hoping to drive it for the FIRST time today. Needs gas first! I may even get the inspection done :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah... it didn't need to be bled this morning - but it did yesturday, and many times the day before :) Just about anytime you want to go anywhere it needs a quick bleed. Suspect is the master, I'm going to drive it for a bit more I think and see what happens.
 

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I had issues with this before, i forgot to mention to u how i solved my issue. I did a reverse bleed using one of the diff filling pump thingys (somewhat primitive) but it worked. I used to lose the pedal every 100 miles or so, haven't had an issue for about 15 thousand miles since the reverse bleed. Donno if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had issues with this before, i forgot to mention to u how i solved my issue. I did a reverse bleed using one of the diff filling pump thingys (somewhat primitive) but it worked. I used to lose the pedal every 100 miles or so, haven't had an issue for about 15 thousand miles since the reverse bleed. Donno if that helps.
Interesting thought on it for sure - I may give that a try. Seems like if I am driving locally I am good for like 35 miles of drivingm or long distance I can get 170 miles. If it sits off for too long it seems to be gone the next time i get in. It has only held over night once - and it was down again this morning. I am going to call Saab today and see what they have in terms of Master's anyway. If it's like $100 I'm just going to get one.
 

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I would have thought that you would have solved it by now? You could always take the master off and look at it and see if anything is obvious but I would replace the master. After what happened with mine I will always replace them in pairs now. (unless Im broke :) )
 

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We had a similar problem on my dads midget. What we did was to apply vacuum to the slave overnight. We just used a small hand pump, a tube and a cork. Pulled a vacuum at the top of the reservoir, when that bled off, we did it again. I think finally it sat overnight and held most of the vacuum we applied. Since then it has been good.
 

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yess.. your 9k is old enough to have the aquarium mounted Master. For which OEM rebuild kits are (were?) available (not so for the pedal area mounted later versions) Besides that, the early steel cyl has a chrome bore so it's durable. Just be really careful on the disassembly as the parts sequence is critical and there are few diagrams available in case you forget the order.
A cheap 2 ounce Plastic Syringe (horse supply shop) a Rubber bung with a hole in it's centre (wine making shop) and a piece of tubing Makes for a simple reliable ( cheap :) reusable, 20 psi capable pressure bleeder. Jam the bung in the reservoir top and press down on the plunger... instant pressurisation (best done with a helper though )
 

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My car actually has the master inside the car, but it was rebuildable, oddly enough, i thought maybe it was aftermarket but it had saab stamped on it, either way even after the rebuild i still had issues until the reverse bleed (pumped through the nipple on the slave) and i've been good, after many headaches and some errors.
 
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