Any good head rebuilders near Nashua - Lowell? - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 07-04-2013, 04:31 PM   #1
 
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Any good head rebuilders near Nashua - Lowell?

What I thought was a blown turbo -- constant oil smoke, visible oil seeping from the downpipe -- is actually an issue with the head.

Took off the manifold to reinstall turbo with new CHRA ....and the No. 4 exhaust port was caked with wet oil. So...I'm thinking bad valve seals/bent valve...

Question 1: It's a B234 head. I have a B235 sitting in the garage but will the comp ratio be too low? (90.5 pistons...)

Question 2: Any good head rebuilders in the Nashua/Lowell general area?
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:03 PM   #2
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I have a good head rebuilder in the Barre, VT area. We use them for 25+ SAAB, Subaru, Volvo, and Mini heads a year. Never had a problem. Let me know if I can help.
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #3
 
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Thanks, Nick....Pending any replies, I might hit you up for that info!
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:01 PM   #4
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I would talk to Yankee Garage in Amesbury, MA.

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Old 07-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #5
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he's both miked and I's go to guy for such needs. I give him an A+ for customer service and turn around time
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:41 PM   #6
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Serendipitous timing on that post there, Mike S. Sorry for your woes, but as you might have gleaned from recent posts I am in a related situation. Now, the question comes to cost. Anyone have a ball-park for this sort of thing? I know to have it ported/matched is $$$$...
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #7
 
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I talked with one of the guys at Nashua and while he wasn't able to tell me an exact estimate, he gave me a ballpark that was what I expected. Disassembly, cleaning and inspection, and a valve job would be about $400, plus any replacement parts if needed. Based on the amount of oil in the No. 4 cylinder, I think I'm looking at at least one new guide and seals. I'll know more when I get the head off.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:43 PM   #8
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Why not buy another head? With everyone that parts these cars out, heads should be a dime a dozen? Did you have upgraded valves springs in yours or something mike?
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:11 AM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byastremski View Post
Why not buy another head? With everyone that parts these cars out, heads should be a dime a dozen? Did you have upgraded valves springs in yours or something mike?
Yep...you nailed it. I have the stiffer Volvo springs in it, and new seals.

So now I'm trying to figure out if it's worth it to just get the Volvo springs put in the B235 head and have that rebuilt instead of the busted B234.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:15 AM   #10
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Aren't the intake manifolds completely different? As far as the ports and such? Are you going to machine out your T5 manifold or something?

Probably worth staying with a T5 head and getting it port and polished...

You gotta figure if you're going to a T7 head you would need virtually all the internals of a T5 head transplanted into the T7 head to get rid of the "pencil size" valves...

Better bang for buck is get another T5 head done up with new springs at the cost of $80 for the springs, a shop will probably charge more to take them out.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:35 AM   #11
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Dave's Machine shop in Fitchburg always did mine.
Good prices, great work.

I think I paid $350 for a completely rebuilt head. (seals, guide adjust, valve job, bake, plane, and remove/replace broken manifold studs)

$99 for just a bake/plane.

I guess the NAPA in Townsend does good work, as well. (only by word of mouth)

also.... *told ya*
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:16 AM   #12
 
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That's all solid info....
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:41 PM   #13
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Got mine done in northern CT. Payed ~$110 for deck, cleaning, and new valve seals installed (supplied the seals). Have the invoice laying around. They were referred to me by others.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #14
 
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Pulled the head tonight and Yay!!!!....there are nicks in the tops of the pistons from the intake valves. So, now I'm betting that the oil coming from No. 4 is from a guide or seal knocked out of place...
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