Going to tweak up the 9-3 tdo4 swap

[SABB-story]

Now that my newer gt1752 is smoking already, i believe its time for a tdo415t i found one for 170 but it needs rebuild. (from what ive seen thats a good price). What is it going to cost to rebuild ? I plan on going stage 2 then 3 after i see that its handling itself. Things im going to add.
tdo4
braided lines
cx 3 inch intercooler
3 inch down pipe
boost gauge
aem wide band
stage 2 tune

Im not sure if i will have to run different injectors or anything for fuel ?
Any input would be appreciated? on the whole swap
remember this motor only has 3500 miles on fresh rebuild.
should i do a retoqure

[Marks9-3]

After the downpipe, do you have an aftermarket or SaabSport Exhaust? Other than that I don't see the need to get a 2, just go for the stage 3. Seriously.

No need for injectors, but with the wideband you'll be able to keep tabs on fuel ratios and with that the fuel pump. Down the line you'll probably want to think about upgrading it if your current one fails.

[LordScania]

a 3" intercooler is going to give you so much lag on spool. compressor outlet is 2" on a td04 and tb is 2.5" i would stick to one of thoose two sizes. the TD04 isnt big enough to push the amount of air needed for 3" FMIC w/B&P. plus its cheaper.

did you put JE's or wo's in when you had your engine rebuilt? do you have the newest PCV system?

i wouldnt go a step farther without these two modifications on the engine side.

[PimpMyPc]

Just use the stock hardlines. Only reason to use braided is for a holset/GT30 swap.
Stock injectors are fine, and same with the intercooler ^^^^^

I would say get some trans/engine mounts and other supporting bits. Stage 3 will quickly tell you what is worn out depending on how many miles are on it.

[justineffingp]

If you rebuild the tdo4 yourself it can be done for cheap, i spend like 45 dollars on a rebuild kit (as long as the wheels and housings are intact). You'll just need a good snap ring removal tool to take the compressor housing off. I had also found a set of stainless braided lines for upgrading to a tdo4 which cost me about 50 dollars, but be warned, a few of the fittings were not the correct size and i had to get creative to have my car up and running again. As for the tune, you will need to get a tune for a tdo4 as the boost/fuel/timing maps are not correct/too aggressive for the tdo4. I noticed when i ran a stage3+ tune in my car while i was waiting to order my stage 4 that my car would act funny on part throttle (ie. pulling timing before there was significant boost and low low low mpgs). I would look into having the car tuned for a tdo4, there are many tuners on this site with very fair pricing.

[StoneSilver]

Originally Posted by LordScania

a 3" intercooler is going to give you so much lag on spool. compressor outlet is 2" on a td04 and tb is 2.5" i would stick to one of thoose two sizes. the TD04 isnt big enough to push the amount of air needed for 3" FMIC w/B&P. plus its cheaper.

Ive got a 3.5" thick intercooler with my TD04 and I have no lag problems at all.

[Marks9-3]

Originally Posted by LordScania

a 3" intercooler is going to give you so much lag on spool. compressor outlet is 2" on a td04 and tb is 2.5" i would stick to one of thoose two sizes. the TD04 isnt big enough to push the amount of air needed for 3" FMIC w/B&P. plus its cheaper.

did you put JE's or wo's in when you had your engine rebuilt? do you have the newest PCV system?

i wouldnt go a step farther without these two modifications on the engine side.

You don't need a 3" inlet to have a 3" thick IC. Most will have the 2 or 2.5 inch inlets.

And I would upgrade the intercooler. The stock one is not effective at all.

I've had the stock ic, the viggen ic, the ETS ic, and a custom ebay setup. The latter 2 were far better than anything Saab provided.

[LordScania]

Originally Posted by StoneSilver

Ive got a 3.5" thick intercooler with my TD04 and I have no lag problems at all.

Bar and plate or tube and fin?

a true bar and plate will give you issues building boost @ low rpm.

that being said how tall & long also come into play.

from what i can see most crx racing are tub and fins and will not give you a problem not matter how large your core is.

[StoneSilver]

Originally Posted by LordScania

Bar and plate or tube and fin?

a true bar and plate will give you issues building boost @ low rpm.

that being said how tall & long also come into play.

from what I can see most crx racing are tub and fins and will not give you a problem not matter how large your core is.

yeah its Bar & Plate, 27"x6"x3.5"

[SABB-story]

Nice thanks guys ! I want to do braided lines so i dont have to mess with hard lines. seems if it would be easier while in the engine bay.

no fuel upgrades
Bushings and mounts ? this is where this car lacks =(
struts and bushings will be needed before any swift turns lol
What could i do for a cheap strut setup? Maybe lower it down with some cheap coils.
Dammit these parts for this car are hard to find.

The rest of the exhaust will def have to be gone through.

[StoneSilver]

Originally Posted by SABB-story

What could i do for a cheap strut setup? Maybe lower it down with some cheap coils.
Dammit these parts for this car are hard to find.

GenuineSaab.com

[BobSabbert]

Originally Posted by SABB-story

Nice thanks guys ! I want to do braided lines so i dont have to mess with hard lines. seems if it would be easier while in the engine bay.

no fuel upgrades
Bushings and mounts ? this is where this car lacks =(
struts and bushings will be needed before any swift turns lol
What could i do for a cheap strut setup? Maybe lower it down with some cheap coils.
Dammit these parts for this car are hard to find.

The rest of the exhaust will def have to be gone through.

I'll never understand why people want more HP but want to cheap out on the suspension. What's the point of more power if you can't put it down on the road or control the car?

Eibach springs, Koni or Bilstein shocks. Rack brace or poly bushing. Rear bar upgrade. Quality tires. tirerack.com, genuinesaab.com, importrp.com.

[SABB-story]

Right, i know more hp before handling ! I would rather have my car be slow and handle better.( i had a miata, slow but had stance coil-overs on it(rails) I just wanna get this car a little better than stock, as its my daily driver. I have a turbo mustang project that is my main focus.

My suspension is shot though! Ill be the first to admit it. I could of sworn that my trans mounts and motor mounts looked newer.

[BobSabbert]

Originally Posted by SABB-story

Right, i know more hp before handling ! I would rather have my car be slow and handle better.( i had a miata, slow but had stance coil-overs on it(rails) I just wanna get this car a little better than stock, as its my daily driver. I have a turbo mustang project that is my main focus.

My suspension is shot though! Ill be the first to admit it. I could of sworn that my trans mounts and motor mounts looked newer.

If you just want "a little better than stock" or the stage 2 you mentioned (like 225-245HP?), get the TD04 and do the swap. A stock TD04 and tune will give you 210 to 215 HP. If you can find a donor car in the u-pull, you can use all stock parts. You could even use the stock intercooler now. Put on a cat back, get a tune, you're all set.

For a little more power, go stage 3, I don't think you need to add anything more but add the downpipe, intercooler, and tune to the stage 2 to get to 270HP (someone correct me if I'm wrong).