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Old 10-29-2012, 04:28 PM   #1
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Balance Shaft Delete

This isn't a thread about should I or shouldn't I....

I'm removing the balance shafts in the '01 9-3 I'm rebuilding an engine for.

Should I leave the balance shafts in (well, put them back in) or is there a delete kit that covers the holes?

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Old 10-29-2012, 06:54 PM   #2
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taliaferro sells a cap for the holes.

and have your engine balanced if you are going for a full rebuild.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sluice Box Hero View Post
taliaferro sells a cap for the holes.

and have your engine balanced if you are going for a full rebuild.
Had the crank and rods balanced. Do you have a link to the caps? I can't find them on their site. Maybe it'll require a call.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:27 PM   #4
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:39 PM   #5
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That's for the tensioner, not the actual balance shafts.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:58 PM   #6
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really dont need that plate, i just tap/thread the hole to where the tensioner goes, and put a bolt in it with some 518 sealer on the threads. and i have yet to have any issues,,

be warned, when you remove the shafts, the engine shakes a bit more at idle
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:04 PM   #7
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you dont actually have to remove the physical shafts themselves
but if you do, you will need to have the bearings in the balance tubes turned in order to close the oil passages that lube the balance shafts
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:04 PM   #8
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Mike are there any plates to block off the holes where the balance shafts go, or should I just put the shafts back in?
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:05 PM   #9
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Other problem is that the machine shop that did the work on the engine removed the bearings to the shafts. I'm guessing I shouldn't put them back in without the bearings, even if they wouldn't be rotating?

Thoughts?
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:20 AM   #10
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In mine, we just left the shafts, and bearings in, and removed the chain. we even left the tensioner there, but "machined" it down, so we didn't need the block-off plate.
(I wasn't there for it, but it was worked so nothing was removed, and nothing interferes.)
We ended up not needing Nick's block-off plate.


You need to have either dummy bearings in place, or the bearings AND shafts. if not, all of your oil pressure will be bled-off.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:31 AM   #11
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yes you must have something in there to block off the oil passaages. You cannot just rotate a stock bearing either as there is a relief on the backside that allows oil to flow around the back of the bearing. You could in theory rotate it and push it farther in past the relief.

When we did mine I had cylinders machined out of steel that we pressed in instead of the bearing. Drive the bearing out, measure and have a good machine shop makes some for you. I had a slight taper put on mine to aid in driving them in. We were able to drive them in with a hammer,

I did not have the option of leaving the shafts in my rebuild since they were so scored. I think that was an original source of low oil pressure on the engine I worked on.

Personally I like to keep the shafts, I don't want my saab engine to buzz like a honda. But I understand removing them instead of the cost to replace them.

The freeze plug that caps the cavity off could also probably be used to press in instead of a custom machined plug. I was worried about installing it square, and getting a good seal, and it vibrating loose some day.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:37 AM   #12
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Other problem is that the machine shop that did the work on the engine removed the bearings to the shafts. I'm guessing I shouldn't put them back in without the bearings, even if they wouldn't be rotating?

Thoughts?

Definite no to this. You will still loose oil pressure, and they will flop around and sound like a rod knock!!
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:58 AM   #13
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Definite no to this. You will still loose oil pressure, and they will flop around and sound like a rod knock!!
That's what I thought, I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track.

I'll stop at the machine shop today and find out where they're at, and if the bearings that were in there are junk or if we can just put them back in and then I'll put the balance shafts back in (disconnected).

If that doesn't work I'll talk with them about ideas to block off oil flow to the balance shaft area.

Also, I just noticed about the balance shaft scoring. I think that all of the balance shafts I have are scored up (I need to double check). I'll have to talk with them about ideas to block off the oil flow.

Thanks for the help.
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Last edited by Slow Joe; 10-30-2012 at 09:00 AM.
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