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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:08 PM   #1
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Talking approaching stage 3

after buying peace by peace slowly im just to items away from have everything i need for a stage 3 viggen. i have a stage 1 tune in it now and its just a bunch of fun. sadly to say im still just a lil slower them my good friends mustang gt, and the sucky part is that he is getting a 5.0 in about a month.

one of the things i need to get is a tune and i currently have bcb tune but might be in the market to go jwz. dose any one have a stage three tune by him and what should i be expcting when im all set and done.

in the car currently
1. forge deverter valve
2. open air intake
3. stage one tune

things that i have waiting to be done.
1. ets intercooler
2. 3" dp (will be put in with a custom exhaust)

thing i need to get.
1. 3.5 fpr
2. tune?
3. money
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:57 PM   #2
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Hopefully you've upgraded the chassis to cope with the extra power! Otherwise you'll have an awfully hard time putting it all to the ground.

Have fun though, I'm still waiting to stage 3 my wagon, but my 85 keeps swallowing all my funds lately
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:52 PM   #3
 
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hmmm...

I'd spend my dough on some preventative maintenance first, like a new MAF so you can be sure that yours isn't going to throw crazy codes once you beef up the airmass requests.

And just as Cark suggested, then I'd fix the car's inherently shitty handling by making sure it could handle the entra power you're planning to throw at it without skittering over the road like a toddler on crack. Steering rack clamp is a must. Ditto for the upgraded rear anti-roll bar. If this is your first or second car, you won't notice the vague, mushy steering response...until you drive someone's E36 or Miata...or even a newer Ford Focus or Chevy Cruze.

The open air intake and Forge BPV doen't really add any power if you're not moving more air through the engine, and don't even matter until you start changing turbos. The ETS intercooler is very good, but overkill for your stock turbo...and the same job can be done with a cheap Ebay IC for half the money.

The FPR isn't necessary unless you get a tune that requires it, and even then, whoever tunes your car might just opt for bigger injectors for safety. Wait and talk to John before getting the FPR.

and WTF is a BCB tune?
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:46 PM   #4
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bcb is brewcityboost. He's a new guy that did my stage 1 tune. i was told by alot of people that the ets was a must have along with the fpr.

as far as the motor goes it was fully rebult down to the inner chain, so i feel that it will be more then ok. i know that the upgraded suspension is needed and that will be done soon as well.

all in do time
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:58 PM   #5
 
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Rebuilding a B235 doesn't fix the shitty pistons....and makes you wonder why it needed a rebuild to begin with.

The ETS is a nice unit, but you can do just as well for a lot less money. It's definitely not a must have, especially on a stock turbo. If John's tunes require an FPR, then go for it. But don't throw money at one without asking him. Shoot him an email. He knows his shit and won't steer you wrong. The worst thing you can do is have an idea of what you should get, and compile a lot of shit and then have to change it.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:18 PM   #6
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well the re build was bc i went from 3rd to 2nd when i ment to go in to 4th. but now its all good and i cant complane i will look up everything you guys are saying to thanks so much.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:52 PM   #7
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I have a stage 3 tune from Rabbit aka brew city boost on my B205r and I'm fine with out the ETS intercooler, spent I think only around $115 for a eBay IC and another $30 for hoses and piping.
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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what pistons should i use and how hard of a job is that to do ??
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:15 PM   #9
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stock pistons are fine, have been running casey's tune (rabbit) for about 5 months now, nice tune.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:37 PM   #10
 
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stock pistons are fine, have been running casey's tune (rabbit) for about 5 months now, nice tune.
You have an entirely different engine. You have a B204, not a B235.

The B205/B235 Pistons are vastly different from the ones in your car. The Bx5 pistons were designed to be lighter to have better gas mileage and more power due to the reduced reciprocating mass.

In the pic, that's a B2x4 piston on the left, B2x5 on the right.

Notice the reduced distance between the piston face (pointing down) and the first ring? That's where the pistons are more vulnerable to leanout conditions...like when you miss a shift.


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Old 07-12-2012, 07:52 PM   #11
 
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well the re build was bc i went from 3rd to 2nd when i ment to go in to 4th. but now its all good and i cant complane i will look up everything you guys are saying to thanks so much.
Yep.....a fair number of stock Viggen and 9-5 Aero owners "money shifted" and discovered the issues with the B235 pistons.

The stock ones are fine up to about 275-300 bhp (stage 3ish) but if you're in the engine anyway, putting in forged pistons is a good idea.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:26 PM   #12
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ok so i im going to get new pistons i feel that after doing some diging its the right thing to do. along with the new pistons im going to do the injectors i so not want to strain the sock injectors out and have a BIG problem then.

so after that being said, what do you guys feel are injectors and pistons that i should go with?
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #13
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hmmm...

I'd spend my dough on some preventative maintenance first, like a new MAF so you can be sure that yours isn't going to throw crazy codes once you beef up the airmass requests.

And just as Cark suggested, then I'd fix the car's inherently shitty handling by making sure it could handle the entra power you're planning to throw at it without skittering over the road like a toddler on crack. Steering rack clamp is a must. Ditto for the upgraded rear anti-roll bar. If this is your first or second car, you won't notice the vague, mushy steering response...until you drive someone's E36 or Miata...or even a newer Ford Focus or Chevy Cruze.

The open air intake and Forge BPV doen't really add any power if you're not moving more air through the engine, and don't even matter until you start changing turbos. The ETS intercooler is very good, but overkill for your stock turbo...and the same job can be done with a cheap Ebay IC for half the money.

The FPR isn't necessary unless you get a tune that requires it, and even then, whoever tunes your car might just opt for bigger injectors for safety. Wait and talk to John before getting the FPR.

and WTF is a BCB tune?
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Hopefully you've upgraded the chassis to cope with the extra power! Otherwise you'll have an awfully hard time putting it all to the ground.

Have fun though, I'm still waiting to stage 3 my wagon, but my 85 keeps swallowing all my funds lately
both times billions

you really want to make sure the car can handle what you give it first.

the Viggens have trouble handling the stock power so if you plan to go to stage 3 you really need to upgrade the chassis and might want to consider the brakes and pads as well. something that will handle multiple stops from high speed if you are racing cars like that mustang. dont want to beat him and not be able to stop.

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ok so i im going to get new pistons i feel that after doing some diging its the right thing to do. along with the new pistons im going to do the injectors i so not want to strain the sock injectors out and have a BIG problem then.

so after that being said, what do you guys feel are injectors and pistons that i should go with?
personally i say dont get any engine upgrades till after the chassis and suspension are done and the car is a solid stage 0.

then talk to your tuner and get what they suggest to match the tune they are giving you.



otherwise its a lot of wasted time and money if you car cant handle the power and youve put things that dont give you the bang for your buck.

take it from someone that did it the wrong way before and wasnt as happy as i could have been doing it right.

plus if you ask around lots will say the same thing. do it right the first time and you will be very happy for a long time.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:07 PM   #14
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Like mike stated w/o a doubt throw some pistons in there.

Tune wise like he stated talk to whoever you plan on getting a tune from before you throw money here or there..... Let him know the power you want and they can let you know what needs to be done. I would consider adding a better turbo since you are redoing the pistons and something else that's a necessity is throw in some t5 cams especially since the engine is already open. I have a -18t turbo on my viggen with stock pistons and t5 cams..... It's a conservative tune but is a very nice improvement over stock.

Some companies offer discounts when you upgrade your present ecu.... So possibly talk to whoever you purchased yours from
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:59 PM   #15
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yea i think im just going to run the tdo4 for now. and im on top of getting t5 cams and up grading so it will be able to handle the power. just sucks really not knowing how to do the pistons and the cams my self, well i guess i have some reading to do.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:33 PM   #16
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personally Id say that for stg3 power levels your stock pistons will be okay. Just do a good solid tune up; like others have stated get a new maf in there for sure. Ive been in a 95 aero that was doing adaptation runs and the maf failed.....that resulted in a cracked piston due to lean out.
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:14 AM   #17
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personally Id say that for stg3 power levels your stock pistons will be okay. Just do a good solid tune up; like others have stated get a new maf in there for sure. Ive been in a 95 aero that was doing adaptation runs and the maf failed.....that resulted in a cracked piston due to lean out.
which may not have cracked had the pistons been replaced...

seriously though. solid stg 0. then work your way up
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:54 AM   #18
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If the engine is already open and being rebuilt why not spend the $600 or whatever it costs and throw new pistons in there.

Mad replaced every few years and I put new pistons in every 10k miles...... Which reminds me I am due for a change.
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:07 AM   #19
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If the engine is already open and being rebuilt why not spend the $600 or whatever it costs and throw new pistons in there.
I think the OP said the engine already had been rebuilt, not that he was planning to rebuild it again. He'll be fine with stage 3, good maintenance, and stock pistons.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:14 PM   #20
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Mines all stock. Just got it. Was thinking about getting a stage 1 tune from brew city boost also. Do they do good work? Has it been reliable? Thank u for any info
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