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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 05-22-2012, 12:09 PM   #1
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T5 cams install

Anyone have a DIY or tips on installing T5 cams into a t7 car?
Anything to do with timing scares me when working on a car
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:02 PM   #2
 
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I was doing a timing chain about a year ago and it was a nightmare. I accidentally dropped the master link down into the crank case and never found it. Then the icing on the cake...someone pushed the car while it was in gear and the chain got sucked in. I got the chain up but the timing and shit was all messed up...car got sold for parts lmao.

Needless to say, I'm having my indie put my t5 cams in!!! Good luck
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #3
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Anyone have a DIY or tips on installing T5 cams into a t7 car?
Anything to do with timing scares me when working on a car
Take your time just make sure you spin it by hand and stop if you feel any interference or hear light clicking etc. If you do that it's hard to make a really bad mistake.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:22 PM   #4
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Zip tie the chain to the sprockets if you're really worried... it's not too difficult to change them over. Just be sure to keep track of the cam followers and their places as well as being careful when tightening them down and making sure you have the proper torque. That part always scares me more than the timing. The cams, sprockets and followers are clearly marked to make timing a breeze. Put the crank at top dead center (there's a notch in the timing cover and on the crank pulley) and timing should be no issue. As Drew said, make a couple of revolutions by hand to be sure you aren't going to be bashing valves or anything.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:43 PM   #5
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Oh, and count the number of links between top-to-top, and mark them. Otherwise you'll think you're going crazy later when you're a tooth off on one side but right on the other lol.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:15 PM   #6
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Place the engine in Top Dead Center
Zip tie cam gears to the chain (so you dont lose timing) and remove them off the cams (14mm)

On the timing chain tensioner, remove the 12mm cap off , (be careful there's a spring in there that may shoot out)
And then remove the chain tensioner (27mm)

Then start from the center caps and break them loose and work your way out releasing the tension slowly (13mm)

Remove T7 cams

Lube up the T5 cams and set into place
Then start tightening them down from the center cap moving your way out again, making sure you bring the cam down evenly

8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10 <--- sequence for each cam to loosen and tighten caps

Torque caps to 11ft.lbs.
Torque sprockets to 47 ft.lbs.

Reset the chain tensioner and install it back into the head.
Then follow up with the spring and 12mm cap (make sure the o-ring is in good shape)

NOTE: make sure you lube the cams very well on installation
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Last edited by grkguy89; 05-23-2012 at 04:40 AM. Reason: forgot the tensioner
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Old 05-23-2012, 12:22 AM   #7
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The other guys are spot on with their advice.

When I done my head gasket I marked every thing and took photos.
So when everything is apart and your not sure how it goes back, Just look at the photo's.

Here's a couple of my pics.



This pic just shows how I held the chain tight


Just make sure that you put the cam bearing caps back on the right way. (the oil gallery in)

If plan everything well, it's a pretty easy job.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:04 AM   #8
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Place the engine in Top Dead Center
Zip tie cam gears to the chain (so you dont lose timing) and remove them off the cams (14mm)

On the timing chain tensioner, remove the 12mm cap off , (be careful there's a spring in there that may shoot out)
And then remove the chain tensioner (27mm)

Then start from the center caps and break them loose and work your way out releasing the tension slowly (13mm)

Remove T7 cams

Lube up the T5 cams and set into place
Then start tightening them down from the center cap moving your way out again, making sure you bring the cam down evenly

8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10 <--- sequence for each cam to loosen and tighten caps

Torque caps to 11ft.lbs.
Torque sprockets to 47 ft.lbs.

NOTE: make sure you lube the cams very well on installation
Don't forget to put the tensioner back together and install.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:38 AM   #9
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was pretty much asleep when i posted that :P
but yes do reset and reinstall the tensioner THEN install the 12mm cap with spring
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:22 AM   #10
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I find a little bit of loctite on the cam gear bolts is a pretty good idea. Had one come loose after torqueing it to spec and it was really not good.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:45 PM   #11
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After you are done torquing the followers, be sure to go back and check them all again with the torque wrench making sure each one of them clicks. Basically, use the same method as you would when putting a wheel on. It's always better to double check after tightening something with tension on it and with so many bolts as things shift and pressures change as you get further down the line of followers.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:45 PM   #12
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Couple more tip, once the cams are in and timing tensioner installed. Rotate the engine counter clockwise for about a 1 inch. This will put all the slack on the tensioner side, you'll hear it extended a little bit more. Then spin the engine over 720* by hand clockwise. The intake cam always looks a little off when on TDC. You should have 15 links in between the two cam gears.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:56 PM   #13
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Couple more tip, once the cams are in and timing tensioner installed. Rotate the engine counter clockwise for about a 1 inch. This will put all the slack on the tensioner side, you'll hear it extended a little bit more. Then spin the engine over 720* by hand clockwise. The intake cam always looks a little off when on TDC. You should have 15 links in between the two cam gears.
Rotating the engine backwards over extends the chain tensioner, It also over tensions the chain & will lead to a broken chain. Please don't do that.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:03 PM   #14
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Personally, I shove a long screwdriver against the tensioner rail (just a little pressure) to keep the tensioner from adjusting out and leave it in place. Cuts the time of this job in half. Did this swap on my 9-5 in just about 30min
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:06 AM   #15
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Rotating the engine backwards over extends the chain tensioner, It also over tensions the chain & will lead to a broken chain. Please don't do that.
I disagree, if you don't rotate backwards you have a rattling chain. When Jim Ellis was busy, I was replacing 4 head gaskets atleast a week for quite a few years. I have never had one break a chain, or a guide.

Last edited by Drifting-FB; 05-24-2012 at 05:16 AM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:25 AM   #16
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Harvey only has pics of the cars he has built/fixed, a neat placard would be super! Mofo wears a fedora too.
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:01 AM   #17
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Harvey only has pics of the cars he has built/fixed, a neat placard would be super! Mofo wears a fedora too.
hahahaha
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:29 AM   #18
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It was only posted to show that I have a little creditability, because you never know who really is on the other end of the keyboard. Not meant to start a pissing contest. Everyone has their own method of doing things, not all agree on them, but my way will not break a chain.

Its not just a placard, its been a career for many years, and the way I feed my family.

Last edited by Drifting-FB; 05-24-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:58 AM   #19
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Its not just a placard, its been a career for many years, and the way I feed my family.
You feed your family placards?
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:35 AM   #20
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the way he feeds his family not what he feeds them. if your gonna be a smart ass at least do it right.....
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