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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 12-28-2011, 09:57 PM   #1
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Exclamation 1 Tiny Step from Engine Swap being complete! (Car is already running great!)

Hey Guys. The past week I spent about 50 hours replacing my 2.3L non turbo engine from my 1996 900S with a 2.0t engine from my 1997 900SE parts car that my friend and I pretty much completely rebuilt. I cannot connect the BPC valve, and the reasons for this follow... Please help!!!

The only problem I really ended up running into, besides the water pump and boost gauge vacuum line which weren't really problems, was that my car has no connection for the RED wire coming out of the boost pressure control valve (the valve with the three vacuum lines running to before/to/after the wastegate). As such, the new instrument cluster I installed which has the turbo gauge does not move and I cannot hit more than 5-6 psi boost because this is the max the wastegate allows without the BPC. Without the BPC I cannot therefore enjoy this beast that I have built, and I just got my stage three tune, so if someone could help me through this final issue I would be very happy.

The small wire loom connected to the A/C compressor, horn, and BPC was transferred from the donor car to my car (as my car did not have this line in it). However, everything plugged right up with the exception of a red wire which continued to go past where this new small wire loom plugged in, which is right next to the cruise control unit (and obviously, this is the connection for the valve to the ECU).

I'm assuming that the BPC valve runs on constant power and without the red wire being connected to something that supplies this power, it remains off, I cannot boost higher than 5ish psi, and the gauge will not move in the cluster.

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO SPLICE THIS RED WIRE INTO SO THAT THE BPC GETS POWER?

There is an there is an unused electrical connection that connected to the SAI system which doesnt exist in the turbo cars (hence, unused) and this just has a black and red wire.... Can I connect the red wire I'm talking about to this red wire and be all set or where can I easily splice into?

Tried to be as detailed as possible! Can't wait to unleash the car's full fury!
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:56 PM   #2
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Nice work on getting the turbo motor in. when you get it going properly you'll love it.

Sorry, I got nothing on the wire bro, But someone will.

I bet you can't stop at stage 3
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:46 AM   #3
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To get the "boost" gauge working in my T5 converted NA it required a wire from the 33pin under dash to the back of the main instrument. It was pink on the -95

I assume its the same for the APC wires. Would need its own fused power.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
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Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:50 AM   #4
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You are correct, the BPC does get constant(switched power). I'm almost 100% sure in saying that the red line from the BPC goes directly to the fuese/relay box inside the engine bay.

Read the lid of the fuse box to figure out what fuse to hook it up too.

EDIT: It looks to be that on a 1997, its fuse 13 inside the engine bay fuse box.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:49 AM   #5
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manual boost controller and just bypass the bpc?
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:21 PM   #6
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Hey dougwentzel!
Good thing you migrated to here, people know what they're talking about. Also Nick frequents TSL more often than SC, I would check a wiring diagram if you can locate one.
Tom
PS: If all else fails, you can use a manual boost controller. I've used my 9K with an MBC for two years now with a modified ECU and had zero trouble. Set at 18 PSI and call it a day. However, if you can get the BPC to work more power to you, I have a bad loom and decided MBC would be an easier solution and I'm happy.

Last edited by KaMiKaZi_t0M; 12-29-2011 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:58 PM   #7
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According to what I can figure out in the WIS, the center wire (orange in WIS, but looks red in my car) goes to a 7.5A fuse #13 in the engine compartment fuse box. The electrical diagrams in the WIS suck, but that's what I was able to ascertain. The other wires are a ground and a signal.

I would suggest you go to the donor car and ring out that wire from one end to the other (i.e. disconnect the wire on #13, see that it's the same color, then test with a meter to make sure it's the same wire. If so, you can hook up the new car to that point.
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:18 PM   #8
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took care of it for him guys as i had the same issue a few years back on my engine swap
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