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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 10-10-2011, 12:55 PM   #1
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seam welding

seam welding the subframe specifically
i remember this coming up in some thread
has anyone gone and done this?
any results? good/bad?
im planning on doing it this weekend in addition to reinstalling my 6-point brace (took it off for some repairs and have yet to reinstall)
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:11 PM   #2
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Yadda yadda, probably effects what will happen to the vehicle in a crash, yadda yadda.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:18 PM   #3
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oh wah... not planning on crashing
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:20 PM   #4
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No one ever plans on crashing...

I say go for it.
Worst comes to worst, you throw another subframe on.
Hell seam welding it may remove part of the need for the 6-point.

Regardless, I am no engineer.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:22 PM   #5
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i do have 2 spare subframes
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:23 PM   #6
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You put the SE sway bar on yet? If not, perfect chance. That is if you plan on removing the subframe...
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:02 PM   #7
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the ng verts had a larger front sway bar
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:23 AM   #8
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i believe the discussion of warping came up last time, but if you've got spares, i'd say go for it!
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:28 AM   #9
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Yeah warping would be an issue if someone just runs one hot bead the entire way around without stopping to allow it to cool. But if you stitch weld it properly leaving a decent gap between your welds and working around it should be fine. If their is access to do most of it in the air on a lift with it all still bolted to the chassis, I would do it that way. Would act like a jig.

Is the subframe aluminum or galvanized steel? I don't remember.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:34 AM   #10
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its def not aluminum

i plan on doing all of the welding on the car in the air on the lift
of course i will jump around so as to not let the metal get too hot
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:42 AM   #11
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If it's galvanized, make sure you wear the proper respirator. I think WIS says what the metal is. I'll check when I get home.
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:11 AM   #12
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:59 AM   #13
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If it's galvanized, make sure you wear the proper respirator. I think WIS says what the metal is. I'll check when I get home.
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Be safe! An I do believe it would be galvanized. It is steel, I've never encountered one that appeared to be factory painted...so I would guess there's a heavy galvanized coating there.

As far as doing this...I seam welded parts of the front frame horns and other areas on the first Lemons car we raced and crashed. I noticed no difference in the car, and post crash, teh whole thing was so screwed up there was no knowing exactly what was affecting what in terms of handling.

The car did hold up to the crash very well, considering what it hit, and how hard. Or at least it held up well enough to kind of bend it out enough to keep racing. I don't attribute that to seam welding though...although I reall have no way of knowing.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:03 PM   #14
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well i do drive a '95 year model, so the car would most likely be totaled if it were to be hit
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:43 PM   #15
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If it's galvanized, make sure you wear the proper respirator. I think WIS says what the metal is. I'll check when I get home.
theres not much you can do if you do not have a fresh air resperator. Just plan on keeping your head out of the fumes and plan on feeling sick. its prob some of the worst stuff to weld, i have tried using paint resperators and it still affects you badly. oh and make sure you have some good vents
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:35 PM   #16
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might borrow my friend's respirator with hose and pump system to give me air from outside the shop.
we'll see
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:47 PM   #17
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Practice first, I have no idea how or if it will warp, but our subframes are pretty flexible so seam welding doesn't sound so absurd. Pictures and results are a must.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:39 PM   #18
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no worries... if i find my digi cam picture will be up. results will deff be up if i do infact do this
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:20 AM   #19
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Also try and box in the weaker parts.

The welding of the galvanize is a problem. Def ++ on the remote air supply.

Really needs to be re-plated after, to keep it from rusting inside out.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:47 AM   #20
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no worries... if i find my digi cam picture will be up. results will deff be up if i do infact do this
Looks interesting, but after adding the 6pt brace I wonder how much difference it would make. It will be interesting to hear your butt-chassis (goes along with a butt-dyno) analysis.

OTOH, Fitting a subframe brace above the engine would probably make things quite rigid
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