Stopping and braking - Viggen - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 10-05-2011, 05:28 PM   #1
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Stopping and braking - Viggen

Want some opinions boys.

Issue #1: someone went cheapy cheapy on the brakes.
Since I bought the viggen it's been urking me that the wrong front rotors are fitted. Not positive, might be the brembo 308s and not slotted; but they're hurtin. I want to go with something different and I see a lot of kits out there but I'm looking to see who's running what and how they like them. Don't really need pad opinions, just rotors.

Trying to keep the rotors under budget, have to order my JT and race cat this week....... unless anybody has any good leads on cobalt SS 4 buckets and centrics!

Issue #2: it's a viggen. budget springs
Been poking around and I see that a lot of people have been happy with the koni kit off GS. I've also been told vogtland but I was under impression they were one in the same (as in one produced for both) but i got no clue. Seen any difference with intrax? Again, looking to see what you run, how you like it, pros/cons, pricing. As above, looking for best bang/ride/drop for the buck....im sure abbott and hirsch don't fit that description.

Side note: don't have full VRC yet but it will be enroute shortly..... and might be getting an early present consisting of a front 6pt and rear brace very soon. If this matters at all.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:21 PM   #2
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i dont think the slots do much. i would think unslotted stops better because of more surface area.

are they vented? and what kind of pads?

will te cobalt ss brakes bolt in? or does it require modding?
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:37 AM   #3
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slotted brakes do help (pitman you keep throwing up dumb statements)
and of course they're vented

cobalt brakes need some modding to fit (caliper carriers)

OP lots of members have had great success with hawk pads and a good set of rotors
just keep clear of cross drilled stuff
you can upgrade the rear to some 9-5 Aero brakes (02-up)

as for lowering. its either thew koni kit (koni springs are made by vogtland) or eibach (i believe) springs


more ppl will chime in with more info... i have to rush to class now
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:52 AM   #4
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When I got my Vig, the PO had installed new non slotted (and probably cheap) front rotors. Within 5K miles they're shaking like a son of a bitch.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:26 AM   #5
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i just redid the front brakes on my Vig with the factory non-slotted 9-5 Aero rotors and factory pads. granted i hate the dust of the OE pads but its does stop damn good. it really all depends on what kind of driving your doing. since this is daily drivin i went with the regular pads instead of going back to ceramic. granted ceramic was nice but in stop and go traffic, it simply couldnt heat the pads up enough for a significant bite.

that being said, i have heard really good things with the combo of Brembo non-slotted rotors and hawk pads or EBC pads. Personally i love the Akebono pads. they are a little on the hard side but have great stopping power once heated and almost no dust.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:33 AM   #6
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Went OEM slotted in the front. Expensive, but my last set went 70k, and probably could've gone another 10k+. Hawk HPS pads are great, follow the proper bed in procedure.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:38 AM   #7
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i just redid the front brakes on my Vig with the factory non-slotted 9-5 Aero rotors and factory pads.
Its getting close to the time when I need to do pads and rotors (in my Viggen). Im going to go this route as Casey did. Maybe different pads.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:46 AM   #8
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just keep clear of cross drilled stuff
this would be considered a dumb statement Like with anything if not produced properly they will fail. If the cross drilled rotors are not made/drilled properly they will fail however a properly designed set will last a very long time. My cross drilled rotors on my viggen have lasted 10+ drivers schools & I think I purchased them used maybe 8 years ago? Porsche, Ferarri & numerous other auto makers also use x-drilled rotors so they can't be all bad!! I think 2 SPG's ago I had close to 100K on my x-drilled brembo's..... with a few track days.... When I used OEM rotors on my viggen I would get 40-45K on a set.....

But if cheap rotors are purchased & they have holes drilled improperly they will fail, crack etc. Cheap rotors can also warp/fail early with semi agressive driving or just daily use which is why someones rotors lasted 5K miles.

If your braking isn't up to snuff for money reasons you could just throw a better set of pads on there. For street driving the difference between drilled/slotted vs std is probably about nothing. Hawk makes great stuff & like people mentioned there are other brands as well. If you want it to look better then I would still also get pads when you swap rotors. Didn't Nick/Genuine sell their own slotted rotors?
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:45 AM   #9
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Its getting close to the time when I need to do pads and rotors (in my Viggen). Im going to go this route as Casey did. Maybe different pads.
yea i should have gone with the EBC pads i was looking at. hate the damn dust....
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:06 AM   #10
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Get slotted brembo's from GS (front and/or rear). They are correctly slotted for left and right side unlike OEM.
I have had good luck with these and EBC Red Stuff pads front and back.
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:06 AM   #11
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this would be considered a dumb statement
its my personal preference/experience

many of the big names you listed are moving away from cross drilled (more so in racing applications than street)

its def a dumb statement by itself but i do have some reasoning that i didnt want to get into
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:24 AM   #12
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I know.... just giving you some crap If the holes aren't chamfered (no clue how to spell it) the odds of cracking a rotor is probably extremely high

The old Brembo x-drilled rotors I had on the SPG back in the mid 90's were a PITA. Seemed like the holes would fill up with brake dust since the rotors would rust in the holes & just collect the crap. My AP Racing rotors have never done that..... but the holes are larger & the rotor material doesn't rust like the brembo stuff.

I haven't read/seen ferarri/porsche/etc going away from x-drilled. Seems like all the new expensive ceramic rotors are x-drilled.....

To the original post, do you need both springs & shocks? I also suggest the koni kit, great setup!!!! Yes to the complete VRK with 6pt brace, rear & front brace also helped my Viggen out quite a bit.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #13
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If you want to do this cheaply then you aren't going to have slotted rotors.

Putting cobalt brembos on that is going to cost alot.
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can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:35 PM   #14
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hey guys. for the brakes I actually jumped the gun. I got the shakes ninety5aero!

I just ordered some 308mm slotted and drilled rotors; don't worry they're chamfered and post machining heat treated. I can't remember the company; just called the guy I ordered from before (saved in my phone). I had actually ordered from this guy before for my Z51 vette and they were great. I think they actually come with a warranty as well. As for the final product I was impressed for what I paid (major discount, I sold him a car previously). So we'll see.

Comments on cross drilling? That's a question for engineers. Since I IS one, yes you're both correct. Improperly drilled rotors can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations; this is why better quality products are chamfered post drilling. The matter of surface area is correct until heat comes into play. Coefficient of friction is effected by heat; slots/vents/holes merely dissipate the heat. I'm a geek, I could go on about strengths of materials all day.... helps when your father was a metallurgist.

yeh tweek you're right on the cobalt's; having one pop-up in a junk yard isn't too probable but if it ever comes to fruition during a leisurely stroll through the yard then I'll go down that road.

gm: just goin with springs with stock shocks for now. But I do agree with VRK and braces as I've seen the results first hand.
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:24 AM   #15
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get these

they look baller and so far they stop good

2000 SAAB 9-3 Front Brake Rotors - Cross-Drilled & Slotted eds.38012
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Hell yeah. All the FWD caddys have roll races like all damn day. Then the cruise over to 'Luca's house for some hard parking and body work tips.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:38 AM   #16
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get these

they look baller and so far they stop good

2000 SAAB 9-3 Front Brake Rotors - Cross-Drilled & Slotted eds.38012
there ya go buddy. very similiar.

Where you at in FL??? I'm near Pensacola.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:27 AM   #17
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I live in daytona and tampa depending on my time of year.
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Hell yeah. All the FWD caddys have roll races like all damn day. Then the cruise over to 'Luca's house for some hard parking and body work tips.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:13 AM   #18
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Sweet I have a new signature.
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can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:02 PM   #19
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Sweet I have a new signature.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:02 PM   #20
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There's a serious misunderstanding about slotted and/or drilled rotors. Slots and holes don't do anything to keep a rotor cooler or affect warping in any way. What they do is vent gases that build up between the pads and the rotors and theoretically increase braking force. That's it. If you run in a lot of high performance braking situations (racing) they might matter.
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