Nordic Stg 3+ Viggen CEL after hi speed run..common? - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 05-07-2010, 12:17 PM   #1
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Nordic Stg 3+ Viggen CEL after hi speed run..common?

Just did a 200 mile run averaging about 85 mph, stopped and restarted the car after about an hour and got a CEL. I forgot my OBD2 at home so I just pulled the ECU fuses to see if the CEL would clear and come back (I don't like driving a car, specially a Viggen, with a CEL), and sure enough it was gone and didn't come back. This has happened on 3 other occasions and the code was for a lean O2 sensor 2 of the times. Is this common?? Do I need to something to prevent this?

Some background: '02 Viggen with 62,000 miles. Nordic stage 3+ from GS with all the hardware. New DIC and MAF 2 years ago when ECU was installed, new plugs last Fall.
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:23 PM   #2
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Original OEM 02's or universal aftermarket?
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:56 PM   #3
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The code was a lean condition from o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1?
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:35 PM   #4
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OEM O2s replaced with new GS DP a couple of years ago.

I believe that code was for sensor #2.
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Old 05-08-2010, 07:25 AM   #5
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Fuck sensor number 2, it's just there for the cat.
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Old 05-08-2010, 10:54 AM   #6
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Nick answered my email and he needs to know:
"Fuel trims, airmass deviation and actual airmass at those conditions."

he also mentioned that there could be an airleak that only shows up when cruising at extended periods...hmmm, not sure how to find that...ideas?

Will an OBD2 give me that?

I got a suggestion to clean the MAF.....worth trying?
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Old 05-08-2010, 11:20 AM   #7
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Fuck sensor number 2, it's just there for the cat.
That is true, but the problem is that when the fault code comes in, even before the cel comes in, all the fuel adaptation is blocked and a lean condition will present itself and then you are running the car with a lean condition!!! I have seen quite a few times and with the open sid function you will see the fault code before the cel and it instantly starts running worse and it leans out in many cases and that is dangerous to be driving it hard with a lean fuel condtion.

So, be carefull and if you get a cel for the 02 sensor, do not drive it hard and clear it out immediately, you can do that by powering down the ecu and then powering it back up, ie pull the negative battery cable!

John
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:36 AM   #8
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You posted this same question on tsn and what you will need for fuel trims, etc is either a tech 2 or a product like autoenginuity. How does your car run, on my old stage 3 + the car had amazing torque, would boost to around 15 and fall like a rock due to pinging. I had one of the first 3 + years ago and went with jak about 4 months later as my car was a time bomb waiting to happen. This was before Nick could map himself so he had to send data to nordic, nordic would re-map, etc...
You could have a leak like he states, but it's very hard to find these leaks. You can check for boost leaks by pressurizing the system using an air pump, but these only finds boost leaks and not vacuum. If you have a shop close by that has a tech 2, maybe you can pay them to drive the car with it hooked up to see what's a miss.
How do your plugs look, mine were white as hell with that box, but it's hard to read plugs on a T7.
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:41 PM   #9
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Thanks IMS. Car runs fine, has lots of power and no issues or CELs or than these few instances, however it has acted a bit weird when starting up cold the last couple of start-up....idles a bit fast (1500 rpm) for a few seconds and then slows down to normal.

Plugs also look fine although they're about a year old and I've only regapped them last Fall so I'll replace.

I'll get some Tech 2 readings ASAP and follow up.
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:46 AM   #10
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Just be careful as my viggen ran great as well. The car dyno-ed at 306 ft lbs of torque and 246 whp (corrected) with that 3+, but once it hit that mark in the graph, it would ping, boost would drop and the fun was over. This was with 91 octane gas.
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:55 AM   #11
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there will always be trade-offs for tunes, my car cold starts a little funky, but the idle sets normal and runs normal after a couple seconds and is perfect after its warmed up, I get a mis-fire CEL, I changed out DIC's, but I did not try new plugs yet, that will be next, but my car runs flawless and boosts crazy like lol. I have not had any pinging issues on 93 non-ethanol.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:51 PM   #12
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Swapped in new plugs (NGK BCPR7ES) as someone suggested and did a few long high speed runs with no issues. Idles and runs a lot smoother too.

I read some where that it's recommended to install new plugs every 6 months on a tuned car...sound right? I think I just might do that. Not sure what 'changes' them but having recently regapped the old ones did nothing where as new ones changed the car....what gives?
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:57 PM   #13
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I change my plugs every 1,500 miles on my stage 5 NG900 as I want the car to be running as well as possible and keeping the plugs fresh helps the car stay smooth and running at full power compared to leaving them in for longer. I find that the most important part is gapping the plugs properly because this can make a huge difference; I installed plugs at .36 and I got some misfiring at WOT. I swapped them for fresh plugs gapped at ~.40 and it went away immediately so it can make a difference.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:05 PM   #14
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Damn thanks for the tip Christian ill remember that when i go stage 5 one day
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:49 AM   #15
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I change my plugs every 1,500 miles on my stage 5 NG900 as I want the car to be running as well as possible and keeping the plugs fresh helps the car stay smooth and running at full power compared to leaving them in for longer. I find that the most important part is gapping the plugs properly because this can make a huge difference; I installed plugs at .36 and I got some misfiring at WOT. I swapped them for fresh plugs gapped at ~.40 and it went away immediately so it can make a difference.
Very strange as.40 is a very wide gap for a tuned car, I know John gaps his at .34 as the gap gets blown open over time. I gap mine at .34 and if I gap them at .40 I get hell-acious miss-fires going wot.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:19 AM   #16
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Very strange as.40 is a very wide gap for a tuned car, I know John gaps his at .34 as the gap gets blown open over time. I gap mine at .34 and if I gap them at .40 I get hell-acious miss-fires going wot.
I think it has to do with the fact that automatics have to be tuned slightly richer than manuals (I don't quite know why) which makes a difference in how the spark plug gap makes the car behave. I put in fresh plugs every 1500 miles so I know the last set gapped to .36 were not fouled, but I got some wierd random misfires at WOT at the top of 2nd. I threw in new plugs gapped to a wider .40 and it has been great with no hiccups since.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:12 PM   #17
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^ Do you romp on your car all the time? Why not re-gap them?

-I like the NGK BCPR7ES.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:28 PM   #18
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I do not, in fact I only really do a few spirited pulls once a drive or so but 95% of the time drive the car respectfully since my driving is mostly in town. I have only used BCPR7ES plugs since I got the car and have never had issues until my car has been randomly cutting out lately. Before the .36 gapped NGK plugs mentioned, I had fresh plugs gapped at JZW's recommended .36 in previously but took them out for those fresh .36 gapped NGKs after a couple hundred miles because of this random cutting issue. I just got it again today on .40 plugs so I am going to try a DI to find the culprit.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:07 PM   #19
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Nick specs a gap of .40 (1.0 mm) for the NGK BCPR7ES which is what I've been using. I don't get any misfires and the engine runs very smoothly with the exception of what feels like a bit too slow an idle at times. I've never tried a different gap setting.

I'm trying to ensure the car is running perfectly before I install my machined turbo housing and King Cobra intake pipe.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:27 AM   #20
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It's strange that gaps are all over the place, but whatever works is what you should use.
Put the pipe on it now, as it will only help.
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