Bosch "040" Fuel Pump; Installed!! - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 11-27-2009, 07:14 PM   #1
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Bosch "040" Fuel Pump; Installed!!

This past weekend I installed the Bosch "040" fuel pump in the 9-3.

All in all it wasn't a bad job. Dropping the tank was really no big deal, especially when there isn't much fuel in it.

I'm not really to sure why people are going through the hassle of cutting out a hole for the pump when the tank can be dropped in 45 minutes to an hour. I'm sure I can do it quicker the second time.
Key things are.
Disconnect the line to the fuel filter
Disconnect the Filler neck
Disconnect the Vent line off the tank that goes to the filler neck
Disconnect the Line to the Charcoal canister
Disconnect the Two Electrical connectors that are accessed through the cutout under the rear seat.

Once That's done Undo the two tank straps. A 13mm ratcheting wrench works great. You may want to have spare straps handy depending on how rusty things are.

Once the straps are loosened it's handy to have a helper to help you remove the tank, however you should be able to do it yourself if you get creative with a floor jack.

Next remove the fuel lines from the pump being careful not to snap anything. Drag the tank out form under the car and clean off any dirt and debris around the pump.

The retaining nut for the pump housing is a bit of a pain to remove. You can make a tool or carefully tap it with a hammer/screwdriver or use two pry bars wedged against each other. Just use good judgment and make sure you alternate which tabs you are using. There are a bunch of them, so if you break one or two it's not the end of the world.

Removing the pump housing is a bit of a challenge, just play around with it and it should come out eventually. Just be mindful of the sending unit float arm.

Taking apart the pump housing isn't very hard. Just take your time and remember the order things came apart. Take some pictures if you need to.

As you can see below, it appears my stock pump was drawing a "bit" of current. It actually melted the other side of the connector and turned the plastic of the pump black on the negative terminal.





The "040" is quite large compared to the stock pump.



The threaded outlet of the fuel pump was misquoted on the Jay Racing site as M10 x 1.0. Finding a banjo fitting that went from m10 to a 8mm / 5/16" hose barb proved to be quite the challenge. Once I figured out that it's not a m10 things got a lot easier. Turns out a banjo fitting from a c900 fuel rail fits perfectly. The same fitting is on the fuel filter outlet side of a ng900/og9-3.



Fitting the pump in the housing turned out to be fairly simple. I used a die grinder to grind the plastic down until the pump would fit through.



Once the pump fit I decided to use two hose clamps to secure the pump in place. Turns out the clamps for a ng900/og9-3 delivery pipe to throttle body transition are the perfect size.




A couple things to note is that the sending unit arm comes very close to the pump in the "full" position. I had to tweek the wire a bit so it wouldn't come in contact with the pump. I also had to grind a bit of plastic off where the float arm attached so it would clear the pump.

Not shown in these pic is the proper fuel line to use. You are supposed to use fuel line rated for in tank use. NAPA can get it in one foot lengths, and it is a bit pricey at $33 a foot, however it's worth it to not have the line break down and fail. I had to have NAPA order it in once I found a store who actually believed it even existed.
5/16" iternal diameter
NAPA part number NBHH209
It is made by gates. part number 27093
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=541

Once the pump mounting is complete, reassmble the pump housing making sure eveything is in the right order and that everything will clear.

Inserting the housing back into the tank is a bit of a trick especially with the new rubber fuel line, but with a bit of fiddiling it will go back in. Make sure the line on the housing is lined up with the line on the tank.

Now is also a good time to replace the tank O-ring as well as the 4 check valve O-rings.

Installation of the tank is opposite of removal. Hook the fuel lines back up, making sure to hook them up in the right place. Again a Helper makes getting the tank lifted into place easier. Once the straps are back in place, make sure everything fits correctly and reinstall the vent lines and filler neck.

Once everything is back together turn the key to on and let the pump prime. Then crank the motor over. I had to crank for a good 15-20 secs. I then stopped and gave the starter a bit to cool and tried again. The car started after another 5-10 seconds of cranking. My tank was almost empty and it primed without any issues. The car has started fine since with no pressure leak down occurring.

I started Saturday and couldn't put it back together until Tuesday night because of the delay in getting the submersible fuel line. I drove it for a 25 miles to make sure it worked fine. Wednesday I hopped in the car and Drove almost 400 miles down to Baltimore to visit my parents. Car ran flawlessly and I even got 29.5mpg.

I used the opportunity of having the tank out of the car to change the hand-brake cables, it is nice to have a working hand-brake again.

Only problem is my fuel gauge is now not going above 3/4. Not sure why, everything appeared to clear before I reinstalled the pump housing in the tank. It is not the end of the world as the gauge just sits at 3/4 for a while unitl it really drops under 3/4. At some point I'll pull it apart again and see if I can figure out why.

Overall it wasn't a bad job and now I'm prepared for future upgrades.
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Last edited by WyldSaabMan; 12-09-2009 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:40 PM   #2
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The fuel gauge thing is normal. Nice write up!
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeGiT SaaB View Post
The fuel gauge thing is normal. Nice write up!
But a bit annoying since I was being careful to make sure it wound up in the proper place.

If I recall though you can adjust the gauge offset with a tech 2. So it may not be as accurate but at least it would say full when the tank was full. Granted reading empty when the tank is empty is the important part!
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:04 PM   #4
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I have been considering doing this upgrade on the notchback, as I suspect I have recently lost function of that crazy pre-pump "bucket filler" pump. My car being an 86 is a totally different set-up than your car, or any other 89+ saab for that matter, but I think I can probably use a "boot" from a Saab 99, as that pump appears to be the same size as the old Saab 99 / Mercedes K-Jet Bosch roller fuel pumps.
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:10 PM   #5
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Turns out the 040 flows a considerable amount less then the 044 inline pump. After looking at the 044 it seems I could have done that one just as easily, but I think the 040 should be more than enough for my goals with the car.
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:25 PM   #6
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What are your goals? Sorry if it was in your original post.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:12 AM   #7
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My goals aren't anything too ridiculous. For now I am just going to throw on the 9k Aero Turbo I have laying around.

At some point something larger may be in the works.

Not like you can really have too much fuel pump.
I've heard mixed reviews on the Walbros. The Bosch was under $200 and has positive reviews.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:32 AM   #8
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my gauge does the exactly same thing with the 040, there was like 0.2mm clearance between the arm and the pump, which i recon wasn't enough for it to work properly then.

I guess what happens is that when the float is pushing the arm up it actually bends it so much that it just stucks on the pump.

Anyways doesn't bother me much, once student-light lights up i'll refill to full. no problems so far.
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:26 PM   #9
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Nice job there, I almost did the 040 to 044 and then just ended up doing the walbro 255 to 044 and its a lot of fuel flow !

The main reason people opt to cut the hole is mainly because a few people have had the t line pop off the t and had to pull the pump a second time and that is a tow home if it happens on the road and with a hole, its about 10 minutes and you are up and driving again.

I have been through 5 pumps, two line pop offs and a few checks to be sure, my hole has come in very handy and saved me more than a few tow home wrecker charges

I made it nice with a sheet metal cover on hinges

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Old 11-28-2009, 10:02 PM   #10
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would you mind posting a pic of this hole? i foresee a 255 in the near future. especially after all the bugs are worked out with my setup. thanks!
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:21 PM   #11
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Exclamation

I just made the hole and replaced the pump with a 255from JZW the retainer clip busted now I have to deal with that.. Otherwise it works well, my question is I spliced the wires inside the tank with solderless connectors black to black white to red but on the inside, after i replaced the pump.. Am I in danger of blowing the car up with the use of connectors inside tank?? By the way the fuel pump makes the car idle better now.. help please.. how do i attach a bracket to keep the fuel line on. do I use the middle red bolt on top? help please anyone..
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:52 AM   #12
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I used crimp connectors as well. There is no need to worry. As long as all the connections are tight, it is not going to spark or anything.

As far as the retainer piece is concerned; did you break the yellow plastic clip?

Eeuroparts sells this.... http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartD...px?id=12806113

Seems like that should do the trick.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:20 AM   #13
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yes yellow clip broke on pressure side thanks for the response do I have to remove the pump again to attach the clip ?/ thanks again.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:47 AM   #14
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Run the Metal clip that is the recall part from the 9-5/9-3s to hold the lines down.

Not a good idea to cut the hole. Exh leaks, sharp edges dislodging a line in a crash. Or simple chafing on the plastic lines.

255 to a -044 is what I have run in the drag car with the 1000s fed fine at 30psi boost on top of 3.5bar. within 0.5psi rail pressure of desired. With a -6 feed line.

Eds Viggen runs the -040 an it fueled the 630s to 100% and on to 750s perfectly on 3.0bar and up to 30psi manifold. Pressures were verified to the tenth on the dyno under full load.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenuineSaab View Post
Run the Metal clip that is the recall part from the 9-5/9-3s to hold the lines down.
Thankfully My clips didn't break when I did mine, so I didn't need the metal clip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenuineSaab View Post
Not a good idea to cut the hole. Exh leaks, sharp edges dislodging a line in a crash. Or simple chafing on the plastic lines.
Yea I saw someone cut the hole and it came out a bit gruesome looking. I'm sure if you were to cut the hole with the tank out of the car and then made some sort of nice cover plate that bolted down then it would be a different story. This would be nice for changing it out the next time

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenuineSaab View Post
255 to a -044 is what I have run in the drag car with the 1000s fed fine at 30psi boost on top of 3.5bar. within 0.5psi rail pressure of desired. With a -6 feed line.

Eds Viggen runs the -040 an it fueled the 630s to 100% and on to 750s perfectly on 3.0bar and up to 30psi manifold. Pressures were verified to the tenth on the dyno under full load.
Knowing that Eds Viggen has run fine with the -040 make me a feel a little better. I knew the -040 flowed less then the -044, but I didn't know how much more it flowed then the stock pump. I still don't know, but I guess if it worked fine on the 750s I have nothing to worry about with my future goals.

Nick do you have a graph of the stock pumps flow?
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Last edited by WyldSaabMan; 12-09-2009 at 08:07 AM.
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