Viggen wont start after cam install. - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 10-14-2009, 04:41 PM   #1
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Viggen wont start after cam install.

lol um can't see how this would have happened? Have done plenty of swaps on a classic. So anyway. took cams out and put the t5 cams in the same way the t7s were installed. bolted sprockets up and put tensioner in. everything looked normal. buttoned the valve cover up, put di in and turned the motor over twice with out it plugged in. then i plugged it back in and it just turned over and wouldn't start. it was dark out so i didnt want to dig deeper and try to remove the di cassette or diagnosed the problem in the dark out in my parking lot. I do have a spare cassette. but any ideas on what could have gone wrong?
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:53 PM   #2
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Did you double check timing before puttin the valve cover back on?

Either your timing is way off or you forgot to plug something in.

Also were the cam bolts torqued down?
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:57 PM   #3
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does it even crank or just simply dead?

x2 on the timing.
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:06 PM   #4
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no i did not check the timing before i put the valve cover back on. how do you check tdc in a vig?i figured it would be fine becasue of the way i put the cams back in.
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPG-GASM View Post
Did you double check timing before puttin the valve cover back on?

Either your timing is way off or you forgot to plug something in.

Also were the cam bolts torqued down?
it doesnt need to be "way off". when i put my 9k motor back together years ago, the exhaust was advanced barely 1 full tooth and the car wouldnt idle without holding my foot on the gas.

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no i did not check the timing before i put the valve cover back on. how do you check tdc in a vig?i figured it would be fine becasue of the way i put the cams back in.
turn the motor over until the hash marks on the cams are about straight up and ill bet you see that one is a tiny bit off.



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Old 10-14-2009, 05:35 PM   #6
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If the timing was off 1 tooth, I'm sure the car would start. Mine would start and drive around with both cams retarded 1 tooth. It ran like shit and stalled all the time, but it ran.
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:41 PM   #7
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take the calve cover off, and remove the sparkplugs.
use a 14mm ratchet on the exhaust cam, and rotate forward until the cam marks line up.

when they do, the dash on the crank should line up, too.
if not, just crank it over, again.

all 3 should line up.
if not, take it apart, and line 'er up again.
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by g96nt View Post
take the calve cover off, and remove the sparkplugs.
use a 14mm ratchet on the exhaust cam, and rotate forward until the cam marks line up.

when they do, the dash on the crank should line up, too.
if not, just crank it over, again.

all 3 should line up.
if not, take it apart, and line 'er up again.
<winks>
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:22 PM   #9
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If the timing was off 1 tooth, I'm sure the car would start. Mine would start and drive around with both cams retarded 1 tooth. It ran like shit and stalled all the time, but it ran.
yeah if both are moved the same amount in the same direction its fine because the overlap is the same.

if you misadjust one and not the other, it doesnt like it.



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Old 10-14-2009, 06:51 PM   #10
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first thing besides pullin the di...and tryin it...i'll pull the valve cover off and check the timing by alligning the notches
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:34 PM   #11
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be sure you are not 180 degrees off. 2 crank rotations for every 1 cam rotation.
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:42 PM   #12
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but if i didnt turn the motor over with the sprockets off how can i be 180 out?
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:46 PM   #13
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If you didn't, that should not be the problem.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:05 AM   #14
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eh, ive installed a set of cams 180 off before...on a non saab tho...its not all that dificult to do lol



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Old 10-15-2009, 03:23 AM   #15
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yeah if both are moved the same amount in the same direction its fine because the overlap is the same.

if you misadjust one and not the other, it doesnt like it.
I had one off at one point, too. It didn't like it, but it ran better than with both off. (Yeah, that job turned into a fiasco )
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:58 AM   #16
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theres a hash mark on the balancer and the two marks on the cams
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:11 AM   #17
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Did you zip tye the sprockets, if so it's very hard to f this up. I bet you have an electrical issue that will be fixed when you plug something back in. Just a guess.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:19 AM   #18
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Anytime I do anything that involves removing the timing chain (even if I zip tied the sprockets) I rotate the crank by hand a few revolutions and make sure all the marks still line up.

I don't want to risk having my valves meet my pistons.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:53 AM   #19
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yup of course i screwed my self. timing is way off. Where is the hash mark on the balancer? i've never worked on these cars to find tdc on one. do i have to take the wheel off and remove the plasic to see the inside of the balancer pully.. or do i just look straight down at the pully and see a hash mark smiling at me. i'm searchin the forums now.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:55 AM   #20
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i zip tied both to the sprockets. but i cut the one on the intake side becasue i was trying to release the ten becasue i my socket was i size to small....thats where everything got screwed up.
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