T7 BCV mod on SC - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 09-10-2008, 05:17 AM   #1
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T7 BCV mod on SC

Mod is on post #7.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...4&page=1&pp=20

In a nut shell, take the top hose off the BCV and block it. Leave port on BCV as is.

So I did this this morning. I was able to do some 3rd and 4th WOT. Boost was a LOT more consistent, like every time the same. WOT 13psi then a steady climb to about 15psi. Before it would spike and settle down and climb and such.

I will leave it like this for a while and then reconnect the hose and compare again. But I am not surprised that a check valve or two may be bad on a 7 year old car.

Anyone else try this?
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:40 AM   #2
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hmm... interesting
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:30 AM   #3
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this is a good way to test for a faulty one way valve but shouldnt be left like it. as the apc will be bleeding metered air from the system off to atmosphere instead of back into the system after the amm. ok so it will run rich not lean so not as dangerous but not ideal either. plus if that one way valve is fault then pressure will be getting into the purge valve, charcole canister etc and boost pressure will be lost so working the turbo harder. im guessing the one way valves are a silly price from saab hence no one replaces them?
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:33 AM   #4
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I think that may be valuable as a diagnostic tool, but not a long term solution. I would really feel afraid about disabling any major sensor on a T7 car and not allowing Trionic to function the way it should.
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:51 AM   #5
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Chris 9-5 says he has had this hose capped for like 5 years on his cars.
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Old 09-10-2008, 07:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice Man View Post
Chris 9-5 says he has had this hose capped for like 5 years on his cars.
Has his mileage changed?

What's his A/F?
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:11 AM   #7
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it wont do any damage, but you may see a tiny loss in mpg. if you realy wanted you could blank the pipe at the tb, let the evap off to open air and just connect the apc to the the inlet on its own. the problem with that is you have petrol vapour sitting in the engine bay. the only fix if you really cba to replace the fault one way valve is to fit another port to the turbo intake and connect the pipe from the evap seperatly to the pipe from the apc. saab should have done that all along realy.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrightman View Post
it wont do any damage, but you may see a tiny loss in mpg. if you realy wanted you could blank the pipe at the tb, let the evap off to open air and just connect the apc to the the inlet on its own. the problem with that is you have petrol vapour sitting in the engine bay. the only fix if you really cba to replace the fault one way valve is to fit another port to the turbo intake and connect the pipe from the evap seperatly to the pipe from the apc. saab should have done that all along realy.
Diagram please for those of us who are more visual...

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Old 09-10-2008, 09:06 AM   #9
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wel if some guy on the interwebz has done it without monitoring any vital engine parameters, It must be good
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:07 AM   #10
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I did this as soon as I saw it. I took it for a ride and I was really impressed. Lately, the stock boost gauge goes the same distance into the red but the car definetly doesn't pull as hard. Something must have seen all that boost all of a sudden and shit the bed.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:40 AM   #11
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I tried it a few weeks ago, and car was the same. Back to stock it went so I guess the evap is just fine on my car.
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liketheword View Post
Diagram please for those of us who are more visual...


ok so the point of the evap system is to burn off harmful petrol fumes and not send them into the atmosphere this gives you slighltly better mpg as well as not doing and environental damage.
now in the pic bellow the fumes come from the tank and charcole canister (orange circle) and are held back by the evap purge valve (pink circle). this is usaly opened under light throttle or over run, but can be open at other times. if open under light throttle or over run it will head up and be sucked into the throttle body. if boost pressure is present in the tb then the one way valve near the tb closes and the fuel vapour is then sucked down into the turbo intake pipe but before getting there joins the vented boost pressure from the apc (blue circle) now if these were seperatly joined to the turbo intake pipe then none of the problems off boost pressure creeping from the throttle body down the pipe and up into the apc would happen.
anyhow if you wanted you could blank the pipe off at the yellow circle and just let the evap release before the turbo all the time, obviusly though when on closed throttle or over run it will have no where to go.
so your next option is leave the yellow circle blocked and remove the evap pipe from the turbo intake aswell (blue circle), then connect the apc pipe straight to the turbo intake. this would leave the evap open to atmosphere but the engines running could be no way effected by it.
in other words its purely an emissions system and has no effect on performance . how ever messing with the pipe from the apc does and you end up getting two different systems completely mixed up just because they happen to share the same pipe into the turbo intake pipe.
hope that clears things up, although your probably more confused now lol.

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Last edited by crazybrightman; 09-10-2008 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marksy View Post
I did this as soon as I saw it. I took it for a ride and I was really impressed. Lately, the stock boost gauge goes the same distance into the red but the car definetly doesn't pull as hard. Something must have seen all that boost all of a sudden and shit the bed.
Take the BPC apart and clean it, its real easy to take apart and put back together. The top part pops off. Usually I find the spring and the other metal pieces have some grime on them. When I cleaned my dads the car pulled a little harder.

Let me know if that works.
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Old 09-13-2008, 03:51 AM   #14
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Thanks Legit. I had the thing apart before. No idea how it works, but it does most of the time.. I connected the compressor hose directly to the wastegate and only had base boost, maybe 3/4 yellow. When I blew out the ports with light compressed air, I noticed air leaked from where the electrical connector goes. Weird??
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:59 AM   #15
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Thanks Legit. I had the thing apart before. No idea how it works, but it does most of the time.. I connected the compressor hose directly to the wastegate and only had base boost, maybe 3/4 yellow. When I blew out the ports with light compressed air, I noticed air leaked from where the electrical connector goes. Weird??
I have 2 and they both leak there as well.
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:34 PM   #16
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anyone else tried that? results?
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