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255 pump installed

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walbro 255
15K views 60 replies 21 participants last post by  stromer 
#1 · (Edited)
just thought i would show you guys some pictures of how i did it.

question and comments welcomed

screw pulling the tank out!!!
tin snips helped me out here




the pumps hookups at reversed from the stock one.

 
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6
#2 · (Edited)

make sure to use hose that is fuel rated and pressure rated. the one with the blue is. its about $5 per foot


i used fuel rated clamps to

you will need to cut the old plug off to put a larger one so i added one with rubber on it because the + and - are to close.


i used the 340

look at all the crap
 
#4 ·
i used about 1 foot of 5/16"
i got 2 and i think i used about half or mayb alittle less.

i havnt had it out on the highway yet, but i do not think it was running lean from the start so i shouldnt see anything. i did it because im going to stage 5 and want to be on the safe side.
 
#11 ·
Yup, I cut the main delivery fuel line, do not cut the return! The delivery line has a larger nipple at the fuel rail. I bled off the fuel pressure by pulling fuel pump fuse and running the car until it will start no more.

Then cut the main delivery fuel line, take heat gun and heat up each end one at a time and press fit onto T without crimping the fuel line, then heat the other side and slip onto other side of T and then run regular fuel line, about 1.5 feet to a fuel pressure gage. I then run the line up under the hood and place the gage on the windshield on passenger side so I can read it as I do wot pulls. I then go out and do wot pulls and watch the fuel pressure.

It should idle at 43psi and should go up to 65-70 psi under full boost. The first fuel pump I had issues with would do fine until about 18-20 psi of boost and then past 20psi if boost, the fuel pressure would fall back the other way and fall from 65psi to 40 psi of fuel pressure at 25 psi of boost.

I put in new fuel pump and whalla, had 65-70psi of fuel pressure all the time under full boost, did not fall off at all...

John
 
#18 · (Edited)
I did some research and it looks like you don't want to use SAE 30R9 hose for in-tank applications. You want SAE 30R10 according to Gates (fuel hose maufacturer)

Use this---> NAPA part number for 5/16 (7.93 mm) SAE 30R10 hose is NBHH209, $28.49 for 1'.
Here's what they say:

"Avoid Comebacks: Install
Permeation-Resistant Fuel Line Hose
Fuel line hoses carry gasoline from the tank to the fuel pump, to the fuel filter and to the
fuel injection system. While much of the fuel lines are constructed of rigid tube, sections
of it are made of rubber hose, which absorb engine and road vibrations.
There are two basic types of rubber fuel hose used for automotive fuel line replacement:
1. Fuel and oil hoses that meet the SAE 30R7 standard.
2. Fuel injection hose that meet the requirements of SAE 30R9.
Not Recommended: Standard Fuel and Oil (SAE 30R7) Hose
Standard fuel and oil (SAE 30R7) hose is rated for low-pressure applications at 50 psi
working pressure up to 3/8" size, and 35 psi for sizes over 3/8". This general-purpose
hose contains a light reinforcement, and the rubber materials can be any compound that
is suitable for fuel, oil and vapors. However, Gates engineers warn that this hose is not
suitable for use on any fuel injection system-even as a return line. It is not designed to
handle the pressures or "sour gas" that can form in the return line. In addition, this hose
can emit 30 times more hydro carbons than SAE 30R9 hose, making it a significant
source of pollution.
Recommended: Fuel Injection (SAE 30R9)/MPI Hose
Fuel injection (SAE 30R9) or MPI (multi-port injection) hose is reinforced to handle
higher pressures up to 180 psi. It can be used on all injection systems that use hose
clamps, but it should not be used to replace coupled assemblies on fuel injection
systems.
Fuel injection hose is designed for low-permeation contact with a wide variety of alcohols
and alcohol fuel blends, such as ethanol, diesel and biodiesel fuel. It allows 15g/m2/day
of fuel loss (well below the allowable standard). Gates SAE 30R9 hose features a thin
inner layer wall constructed with a compound called Fluoroelastomer (FKM), which
resists gas permeation and retards aging. This first layer protects the rest of the hose
from swelling or permeation, which can be caused by aromatics, oxidized gasoline (can
occur in fuel injection systems), ethanol or oxygenate additives, as well as a wide range
of petroleum-based products.
The laminated tube will resist cracking caused by "sour gas," which forms when unused
gas is returned to the fuel tank. As an added benefit, this hose construction reduces
emissions because fuel cannot evaporate through the hose walls.
SAE 30R9 hose is also recommended for diesel and biodiesel fuel because its
fluoroelastomer tube resists deterioration caused by some diesel fuel additives. As
refineries produce cleaner fuels and lower allowable permeation rates during the "vehicle
at rest" condition, older hose specifications such as SAE 30R7 are becoming less
reliable. This type of hose is no longer specified on OEM automotive fuel applications
because of stringent permeation standards.
Therefore, Gates engineers state that the best choice for automotive fuel line hose
applications today is fuel injection SAE 30R9 hose. For installers, it is the best choice for
reduced comebacks, high performance and assured trouble-free service in a changing
fuel environment.
Finally, for submersible applications such as in-tank fuel pumps, only SAE 30R10 hose
should be used. As gasoline comes in constant contact with the outside of an ordinary
fuel line hose, it can swell and prematurely fail. And when the hose fails, the pump will
fail.
Specially engineered to be submersible, Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose exceeds the
SAE 30R10 rating and is capable of handling gasoline, alcohol-extended gasoline or
diesel fuel in fully immersed, mobile, stationary and marine applications.

Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose tube and cover contains Fluoroelastomer (FKM), and
is reinforced with aramid fiber-the same fiber used in bulletproof vests that is poundfor-
pound stronger than steel. Click here to learn more about Submersible Fuel Line
hose.
For more information contact your Gates representative."

NAPA part number for 5/16 (7.93 mm) SAE 30R10 hose is NBHH209, $28.49 for 1'.
 
#19 ·
I did some research and it looks like you don't want to use SAE 30R9 hose for in-tank applications. You want SAE 30R10 according to Gates (fuel hose maufacturer)
I was just about to write/question after the same issue, a hose that is meant for fuel delivery may not survive when submerged and there are more than plenty examples of this where it has gone wrong.
 
#20 ·
Yeah that submersible Gates fuel line is hard to find and they only make it in a couple of sizes.Non-submersible will start to fall apart on the outside after a while and could clog up the fuel filter, and then eventually completely fail.
 
#23 ·
I need help. My mechanic sent me the following for my Walbro 255 pump install

Randy,

We have the fuel pump out, but the new pump motor you provided is not the same and will not work unless we have a different rubber suspension ring. This ring goes around the top of the pump and positions the pump inside the plastic assembly. The pump you have has a "cloverleaf" shaped top, but the replacement has a larger round top. So, the original rubber ring will not work with the new pump. We need either a matching ring or pump that matches your original ring.

We have a new assembly here, or you can talk to your supplier about the problem. We'll leave it apart over the weekend.

Thanks,
Eric
 
#27 ·
I need help. My mechanic sent me the following for my Walbro 255 pump install

Randy,

We have the fuel pump out, but the new pump motor you provided is not the same and will not work unless we have a different rubber suspension ring. This ring goes around the top of the pump and positions the pump inside the plastic assembly. The pump you have has a "cloverleaf" shaped top, but the replacement has a larger round top. So, the original rubber ring will not work with the new pump. We need either a matching ring or pump that matches your original ring.

We have a new assembly here, or you can talk to your supplier about the problem. We'll leave it apart over the weekend.

Thanks,
Eric
The rubber can be pushed down around the pump no problem, you can trim it, I just forced it in there. You do have to open up the basket with a dremal to make it fit in the saab basket. Basic mod stuff to run the larger pump.

John
 
#29 ·
Yea, I had to open up the basket that the pump cylinder sits in and the top of it has the rubber piece these guys are talking about. I actually removed the top rubber piece all together after my fith fuel pump install, I have had horrible fuel pump luck! First one, stock, got weak, replaced with oe walbro, it was weak too, returned it and replaced it again, year later, went bad again, replaced it with walbro 255 chinese copy of walbro 255, it lasted 6 months and went bad, put another one from lightening and its been in there a while now.

I had the same thing happen once on my 9k aero and once on my girl's cse.

So, I have had two bad stock ones right out of the box, one from napa, one from eeuro and then one bad 255 from lightening. I am a fuel pump replacing fool:cool:

The walbro 255 is a larger diatmeter cylinder pump and the basket has to be opened up a little so it will fit down in the basket.

John
 
#31 ·
The install is done. Thanks for every ones help. I know I must be wrong but the new pump seems to have helped make the car more responsive power wise when I have my foot to the floor. Maybe I'm just happy to have the car back.
 
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