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Ng900 513whp sae in Denver

3K views 43 replies 20 participants last post by  lms 
#1 · (Edited)
#9 ·
I guess I was not clear on that, I said it let go, I meant when its holding ,its holding, when its no longer holding, its let go:cool:

If you listen to the second run, that was only about 4500rpm when it let loose and slipped and I got off the throttle... It is slipping bad now...

Slips in second bad and slips in third and fourth.

John
 
#13 ·
Ok, here is an overlay from last dyno at 36F and light snow and today, summer, but morning. You can see the spool-up difference, mainly because of temp, I have the boost coming up as soon as it physically can, then you can see it holds the power past 6k much better, its actually about 20whp it looks like on my graph with less detonation, smoother line, plus the knock counter did not go off at all, still at 0, 10 is still considered good and 80 is where it starts to get bad.

John
 

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#15 ·
Oh man, one word... HOT!

I'm sorry to hear about the slipping clutch, but its always a good excuse for an upgrade ;).

Haha, my poor stock 185hp NG convertible must have shat itself as the rumble of your exhaust echoed through my house! :razz:
 
#16 ·
Yea, when you hook up the canbus, its like having a tech2 hooked up to the car you can tune with! You can watch where in the fuel map the ecu is going to and in the timing table and you can monitor everything, tps, iat, coolant temp, fuel, timing, injection rate, knock level, timing retard map, knock fuel map. Any map that is in the ecu, you can monitor it and every sensor in the car, you can monitor it live.

I had big gages on my screen with iat, coolant temp, boost, knock and I was watching the timing map on the screen and watching a/f on my wide-band and we had wide-band on the dyno.

If the ecu starts to pick up knock, you will see the level of that knock and it also gives a peak, current value and minimum if applicable. I can go drive, pull over and see what the max boost request was, what it actually achieved, etc.

No knock level was detected at all...

What was really cool is I was watching iat, it was at 38c as I drove down the road, I would go wot and the w/m injection would come on and the iat would drop to 20c:cool: Very cool.... I don't know if you saw the video of Daveship? His dyno graph showed bad detonation in my opinion, very squiggly line, usually means detonation....

John
 
#18 ·
What was really cool is I was watching iat, it was at 38c as I drove down the road, I would go wot and the w/m injection would come on and the iat would drop to 20c:cool:
I thought you had you w/m nozzle after the MAT sensor?

Monitoring gauges on real time is ofcourse nice GUI stuff, but dont offer much in terms of tuning, when you cannot pick up all the needed info at one eye blink when rpm is sweeping.
Seems that progress has been made, but I would like to see the non SAE curves as well to se how much gain was obtained regarless of different temp, humidity etc since as you say the w/m removes heat thus its used to increase the sae factor.
 
#17 ·
nice numbers.

in all honesty ive never seen a car come off that backstreet dyno with a smooth plot its something else not detonation in my opinion...seen cars of all softwares on there over the past few years (been the same dyno every year for awhile now)
 
#19 ·
Wicked. I guess I would find that to be undrivable in FWD config. What do you do, just chase down Lambos on the highway? It'd be too much for track purposes. I'm not hating at all, it's really impressive, but there is a point of diminishing returns on a FWD car.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Power levels can be changed:cool: I can set it up for drag, current set-up, drag radials and slicks and well prepped track do wonders for traction.

I am going to a road race event in Sept, I will turn down the boost and tune it right to the edge of traction for that event;)

Here is a video of what its like driving it, before the road tune.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/161555.htm

John
 
#24 ·
That is what makes it so fun, I love to run across sti's and evos and cameros and Z-06's and even porshe's and surprize the ever living crap out of em...

John
 
#31 ·
Holy shit, 513whp...
Those were SAE corrected numbers, which don't apply to forced induction cars at altitude the same way they apply to naturally aspirated cars. The "real" numbers are certainly less than that.

That said...

The raw, uncorrected numbers were really strong and can stand on their own, especially considering the conditions.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Yup, sae is inflated at elevation, cf in half is about right. That would be

479whp and 440wtrq, slipping clutch not helping I am sure.

Dave-ship, point was that I road tuned it and got 10whp more in the summer over what the car made in the winter, and with marginal clutch, that is all, not that it really is 513whp at sea-level, more like 475whp or somthing.

Tuning wizard: Well I have learned a lot and think I know a good bit about principals and theories and what works in the real world. I do have good data logging equipment and can make a cutom tune run strong, yet safe. I have been able to take a few cars with tunes that were not quite right for the mountain air and make them run strong, yet at safe a/f levels with safer timing in my opinion.

My post was to show what the differences are after you can road tune a little bit and the biggest gains to me were the drivability at part throttle and warm up. I look forward to driving it now as opposed to trying to avoid traffic and slow moving conditions before.

The one turbo, gt3071wg that ate itself had a poorly machined out turbine housing from forced performance, Nick put it on his car for a test and it almost ate his turbo as well;)

Motor now is a year old and has 12k on it and is running strong. First motor was pushed very hard for stock pistons, drag racing with nitromethane in the w/m mix with advanced timing and 30psi +...

I am no great tuning god, I am just learing how it all works now, feel the 300bhp tunes are pretty easy, have lots of good tunes with lots of good information to compare and contrast and hundreds of hours now testing and playing with bin files.

I just made one comment on the look of you're dyno graph with the squiggly line and suggested you might want to consider w/m injection since you like to push you're car as hard as I do mine:cool: A little extra knock protection is never a bad thing:cool:

Since I put my information out there for everyone to comment about. I would like to see Dave's sae and uncorrected posted dyno sheet for comparisons sake.

Mike, how about you? I don't think I have ever seen you post up you're dyno sheet. Lets see the sae and uncorrected from last year at soc.

John
 
#40 ·
I think the presonal experiences and information is some of the best stuff:cool:

When I was able to get a little more hp out of the car with hotter temps and a flatter hp line that help a good 200rpm more above 400whp, I was happy about it and wanted to share my experiences.

It does also kind of give me some satisfaction that I was able to acomplish something and I also like to show other people what is capable with our cars.
Tha combined with all my time and money, it kind of shows how it has paid off so to speak.

All that plus I am very competitive, comes with my nature, love it or hate it, that is part of my personality. I will talk sh@t to you before a race, try to get in you're head and then try my best to walk all over you...

Sorry....

John
 
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