You need to check basic stuff first. Make sure your bpc is hooked up correctly, and functioning. Check for vacuum leaks, etc. Make sure base boost is set correctly (7-10psi is what it should be at. install helper springs to increase base boost as opposed to tightening the rod).
when i come to a complete stop after doing 2000-4600rpm runs. let the car sit for a moment at idle... i can hear a weird sound like whales... or a distant fog horn coming from my gas cap... when i release the gas cap its forcing massive amounts air pressure. mind you my gas gauge is fluttering up and down 0 to max fuel to half to where it should be... fuel pump issue?
when i come to a complete stop after doing 2000-4600rpm runs. let the car sit for a moment at idle... i can hear a weird sound like whales... or a distant fog horn coming from my gas cap... when i release the gas cap its forcing massive amounts air pressure. mind you my gas gauge is fluttering up and down 0 to max fuel to half to where it should be... fuel pump issue?
Are you sure you didn't put an obd1 box in an obd2 car or vice versa? That would cause a vacuum to be pulled on the tank since the evap controlsare totally different
I'll have to give that a try... I have a saab mechanic fixing up some stuff for me... he said he'd take a look at the ECU and scan it to see whats up... that should tell him if its an OBD1 or 2 ECU right? Hopefully this all gets sorted out... I cant wait for it to be running properly.
Unhooked the terminal and reset. Boosted 3000-4600 (out of a pissy rage held every gear)
The only thing I've yet to try... Checking the base boost running a hose from the WG to the compressor.
weird happenings- fuel cap still makes a humming noise and when I slowly release it theres tons of suction from inside the tank. Some horsepower gains while boosting 10psi more so than with a stock ecu/mbc set for 10.
im stumped... I'd really like to see this thing hit 20psi
hardware installed- stage 4 custom tune, tdo4hl-15t 5cm, 3" JT turboback, GS intake, GS inlet pipe, stock fmic (new fmic sitting in my lap)
If I were to check vac lines or anything else out to see where the issue is coming from what should I look into? I noticed I had crack in a vac line leading to the TB on the left side it connects to a plastic piece with a plug then travels into the car by the left strut... could that be it? I really need to get a tech 2 reading.
he claims on SC that it came out of a 97 900 so it should be compatable, although that doesnt rule out an issue with the EVAP systems bs, but he seems to not want to get anything checked out and keeps wanting the simplest solution so.
well actually id love to get it checked out... only one problem. my mechanic is a complete douche and wants to keep it for 2 days which means $$$$ and his prices are retardedly high.
wait... a while back when i installed my JT 3 inch i put a non sparkplug fouler in one of my bungs to avoid a CEL... oh yeah... i dont have a cat. so i wonder if the ecu thinks my car is obd1?
saabkid37 i think your right about the evap issue. snow41man sent me an article on how it works/troubleshooting. it definitely sounds like thats the issue.
Common evaporative system problems include:
an incorrect or defective gas cap
a sticking open or closed evaporative canister vent control valve
a canister coming apart inside, allowing charcoal to be distributed throughout the evap system - plugging up the evap canister purge control valve and the evap canister purge volume control valve.
On some cars they are located in the fender well, on others next to the rear axle. My viggens is next to the axle, and I think you should be able to follow the lines.
There does seem to be some issues with different sw versions pressurising the gas tank. I had the same issue with a guy, will try another sw version and the best thing to avoid this would be to start with the original sw version and have the tune built on the oe sw version, then there is no question its the right one and it will work fine.
Good Luck,
John
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