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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 08-13-2008, 05:27 PM   #1
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Bracing up rear axle

i am bracing up my rear axle in my 96 ng900 much like kevin yankton did on his. ive took my car to a fuew scca autocross events, 2 track days in pueblo co on there road coarse, and many moutian drives scaring the shit out of whoever the pasanger hapens to be.

this has taken a tole on my original axle and i am wearing out rear tires in about a month, i just bought another axle from east of sweeden a local saab parts supplier. i orderd new polly urithain bushings for it from elk parts and started making bracing for it. ile post pics as it comes together.

here is a pic of the rear axle that i am bracing
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:30 PM   #2
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hear is the 2 suport brackets for the uprights they are made out of 3/16 flat stock.
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:31 PM   #3
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after being cut out by the band saw. i still need to use the accetiline toarch to cut out the half circle that fits down around the axle itself.
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:33 PM   #4
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Very interesting. My tire wear has been less than desirable as of late (168k miles of Boston/Maine roads) and this is a neat project to keep in the back of my mind for when things get really bad.
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:48 PM   #5
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The problem your going to have is when you try and weld that bracing to the axle beam. The heat is going to distort the axle because you don't have a jig.

Abbott motorsports already has a race prepped rear axle for the ng900/og9-3 but I know of nobody who has bought it and had it shipped state side.



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Old 08-14-2008, 06:12 AM   #6
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Shim the camber and fit stiffer springs. It is the spring rate that makes it feel so soft. Mostly the front though.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:44 AM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenuineSaab View Post
Shim the camber and fit stiffer springs. It is the spring rate that makes it feel so soft. Mostly the front though.
+1...

The stiffer torsion beam is just an inexpensive OEM way of altering spring rate, which you should just do directly by going to stiffer springs.

But as Nick says, the fronts are key for handling, and the trick is going to be balancing the fronts while stiffening the rears and not making them have crazy wheel hop....which would totally kill traction on rough corners....
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Old 08-14-2008, 01:28 PM   #8
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What are the stiffest springs and where do you get em? I already have Eibachs in there. I hear B&G are stiffest.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:37 PM   #9
 
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Keep the Eibachs. The B&Gs are only stiff for part of the length of travel because of the funky construction. I hate em.

A couple of the British guys (ragtopcav maybe?) are using spring inserts within the rear coils -- the kind of helper springs used for towing loads.

I'd assume that if Nick is talking about race-ready dampers, then stiffer rears would also be part of the equation. The suspension engineers at Koni can probably whip up a combo in half a beer.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:50 PM   #10
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Yep I have been playing with rear springs to the point that i might have to helicoil the lower shock bolts. Now back full circle to the HRs. Interestingly the main thing you feel is the turn in response.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:55 PM   #11
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How about going to something like air bag inserts?
That was a cheap way to gain traction in a RWD car that did not have posi.
You could preload the right rear tire by filling the bag up.

I'd assume this would effectively make the spring act stiffer there by creating less weight transfer?
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:38 PM   #12
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i have already tried to shim it out and it is so bad that it is unsafe to use that amount of shims. i will take a pic tomarow of it from the back when i say it is bad i mean really bad. i know about the heat issue i think i will be ok just doing small stitch welds and leting them cool before finishing them, it would be nice to have a jig but making one would just take to much time for only one axle if i were to make a bunch of them i would, but it wouldnt be worth the time to me. ile post some more pics tomarow i didnt have time to work on it today.

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Old 08-14-2008, 08:48 PM   #13
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Has anyone ever jacked the rear of your car up using the rear axle?
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:55 PM   #14
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not that i know of i know it hasnt as of when i owned it.
hear are some more pics that i promised.

this is pic from the rear you can see how bad the rear camber is.

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Old 08-17-2008, 06:43 PM   #15
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I think you'll be OK welding on it if you do what you said, stitch and cool. We weld this way at work even robotically to keep the heat down and minimize warpage.

It is very cool you are taking the initative to do this, the results may or may not be what you expected, but I don't think you can make it any worse, and the fact you are doing it in conjunction with a repair makes super sense!!

There are tons of people around here that say they are setting their cars up for the track and what not and don't actually track there car so good on you for finding a fault, and trying to remedy it!

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Old 08-17-2008, 06:45 PM   #16
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here is one of the supporst after being fited. on the drivers side.
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:49 PM   #17
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the drivers side tacked in place
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:52 PM   #18
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made pasanger side mout.
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:56 PM   #19
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here is the pasanger side tacked in. i am taking it to work with me so i can actualy weld it up. we dont have 220 outlets in the garage yet so we cant use our miller 250 welder i just tacked it in with out little hobart 110 for now and ile finish it up tomarow.
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:57 PM   #20
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Real nice.
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