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Balance Shaft Delete?

9K views 59 replies 25 participants last post by  JZW 
#1 ·
#5 ·
Like Castor Troy said, the engine will rev more freely because you are reducing the rotational mass.

People say it is like a lighter flywheel.

I've had the balance shafts out on a rebuild, and they are not much more than 3-4 lbs each. Factor that times two, plus the mass associated with the chain, and pulleys.

Tboy
 
#10 ·
I agree, my 2.0 motor was not bad at all on vibration, but my 2.3 motor with poly mounts and no balance chain does vibrate a good bit at idle, my mirrors buzz, my grill buzzes and I am on my second head light assembly that has vibrated loose.

Car runs well and I like the power, but there is a vibration trade-off and its mostly at idle. Eric hated it so much he put the balance chain back in his 2.3 motor and stated it was really noticable with the power, being it felt a good bit slower once he put the balance chain back in the car, but the vibration was gone and that made him happy.

John
 
#8 ·
Not easy really. You have to pull off your timing cover which requires removal of pretty much all of your accessories, pain in the ass tension/alternator mount, balancer and oil pump. I unbolted my engine mounts to be able to raise and lower the engine to make it easier. Dont know if it is possible with doing so. If you can do all that it is easy. Unbolt the chain tensioner, remove the chain, and install to block off plate being sure to clean bolt side of the threads and use high strength loctite.
 
#15 ·
doable? yes. easy? no
I've seen this done twice now, both times engine came out of the car. Would be a nightmare with it in.

I'm sorry, I don't know how it would be possible to finnagle the timing cover off then get it back on without disturbing the head gasket, and making a nice seal again. I think it would leak. Then again, maybe there's some secret method I'm not familiar with. I'm just saying that looking at the dimensions, I don't think it's possible.

I took my engine out to do it and as a result the entire thing is a dry as a bone.
 
#17 ·
Yeah you have to really want it with the engine in and head on. If you pull out the alternator you can sneak it in from the backside of the engine, with the engine mount disconnected and jacked all the way up. Then you just have to worry about getting in it with RTV still on it. Easiest way is too loose up you oil pan a bit.
 
#19 ·
I did it with the head on, oil pan off, both front mounts disconnected, and the engine jacked as far sideways as the drive shafts would allow.

You dont have to remove the passenger drive shaft/alternator block, but you do have to unbolt it from the block.

In my opinion, its not worth the effort unless your already down there, or have the engine out.
 
#20 ·
Yup, I would not do it unless you need to drop the oil pan anyway. Before I started tuning, I dropped the oil pan to clean the pick-up screen, it was 60% blocked, so glad I did! I then replaced the front crank seal, inspected the oil pump gears and replaced the oil pump O-ring. I then just cut the balance chain with my handy dremal tool and pulled the chain through the bottom with vice grips. Tensioner and all pieces still inside the timing cover.

If I ever do replace the timing chain or need to pull the timing cover off again, I will remove balance chain tensioner and put the plug on it.

Felt like light flywheel to me....

John
 
#27 ·
No, I think he just found a 10mm bolt that he was able to cram in there.

Shade tree style;) Just like pulling the chain out the bottom and hoping the tensioner never blows up:cool:

John
 
#32 ·
That is all well and good until the balance chain system fails and takes out the entire motor;)

Many people delete the chain not because of any gains they might see, but because its another component that can fail and take out the motor. The timing chain is enough of a worry, don't need another set of guides and gears and chain assembly that can break and get twisted up in there and take out the valves.

John
 
#30 ·
The hole is the perfect diameter for tapping to a M6x1.0 bolt which is also a commonly used Saab bolt. I tapped it, blew all the shavings out with compressed air and acetone,and stuck an M6x1.0 bolt in there with red Loctite. The block off plate is a waste of $20 in my opinion. Didn't Spoolin900se says his like vibrated loose or something? I'll have to find the post.
 
#34 ·
My opinion? Well worth the effort. Aside from the extra vibrations, it really recovers a lot of lost power that was put into spinning the damn shafts.

Definitely loctite the bolts that hold the block off plate in place.

The only thing that truely sucks about doing this is the following:

Remove balance shaft chain + GS tranny mount + GS engine mount + idle + a/c running = MASSIVE ass-numbing vibes!
 
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