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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 07-10-2008, 08:03 PM   #1
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Diesel Rear Motor Mount

So the rear hydraulic mount on my 900 is pretty much not doing anything..time for a new one. #1 in the pic:



Is the diesel mount that Nick sells worth the extra $? How long did people who have it wait to get it? Is it a direct bolt on a 96 900 5spd?

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=580
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:12 PM   #2
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very interesting.

Probably doesn't compare, but in the mk1 vw world, the diesel mounts are a lot more heavy duty than the gas engine mounts. The ones in my vw rabbit diesel were original and failed at 220k miles (turned soft and started to tear). I even re-used one, because it was still stiffer than the brand new gas engine mount I bought.
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:01 PM   #3
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I just ordered it from GS on Wednesday. They said it is currently out of stock but should be in within a few days.

From those that have all three I have heard that tons more vibrations are transferred into the car... I don't foresee it bothering me that much...

According to the web page it is a direct bolt on. I'd imagine the only difference is maybe a thicker rubber and a heavier hydraulic oil.
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Old 07-11-2008, 04:01 AM   #4
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let us know how it goes! i have the two front sport mounts and a new rear one that just broke after only 10k miles.
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:32 AM   #5
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I have a friend that put all three GS mounts in his 900s. I asked him about the diesel mount as i was wondering about it too. He said it was notably stiffer and worth the money for the upgrade. Just be aware that there is definently more cabin vibration. I got to drive it with the new mounts and it feels so crisp and fresh but it also makes it vibrate like a race car, which I personally like as your more in touch with the car, but many Saab owners probably won't like it.

Put simply, its without a doubt one of the next things im getting for my car.
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:00 AM   #6
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I have it. No additional vibes.
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tito View Post
I have it. No additional vibes.
Do you have all 3 GS mounts?

I need to do my rear mount, the stocker is shot. I have the other 2 GS mounts in currently.
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:18 AM   #8
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Well I was eating rear mounts like tires at the drag strip.. The diesel rear mount has held up nicely.

My container from Sweden (Realcar, BSR and Sp for the bigger ones) will be here Monday.

Also in other news we won't be dealing with the SE company that held up this shipment for over a month ever again
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
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So the rear hydraulic mount on my 900 is pretty much not doing anything..time for a new one. #1 in the pic:
Just make sure the old one doesn't snap, breaking your linkage and sending your TB into your hood.
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:44 AM   #10
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That hasn't happened yet (thankfully).
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:41 PM   #11
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A good engine torque brace will help take the strain off that rear mount.
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:52 AM   #12
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:19 PM   #13
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I have the two other mounts and the vibration is not to bad, to me at least.

I am wondering, how much EXTRA this last mount will add. My guess is, if I am fine with the two that I have now, this 3rd one will not be much worse.

I am probably going to add it to my parts list for the 2nd round of shopping for my trans rebuild this month.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:58 AM   #14
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I will make some sketches of how the side torque mount like the 9000s does not help the problem. it does a little but it makes other loads worse. Think about the reaction torque from the axles and how the stock 3 mounts are symmetrical. Then you throw one up putting lateral loads on the front mounts and causing the power-train to twist in the hole.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:11 PM   #15
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Hey Nick, I know this is one area we disagree on and I know what you are saying and on paper I am sure this looks less than the ideal place to put a third motor mount, but in real life there is no question it makes a huge difference in reward engine movement and the tranny and drive-train actually seem to stay much more in line and much more power is transfered to the ground.

I had mine checked on the dyno and it did not move more than 1" backward under full load with 500bhp. I also noticed when my clutch was slipping before with the old used one that when I put the top motor mount back in place, lo and behold, the clutch started slipping again, one more example of how more power is transfered to the wheels and the ground with the top mount.

Its not absolutely necessary, but there is some wasted energy there for sure and its very easy to test

John
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Old 07-15-2008, 06:20 PM   #16
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I see what Nick is saying too. However unlike the 9k setup, there is a mount dead center in the ng900/og9-3 setup where as in the 9k it was two on the bottom front and rear of the motor on the subframe, the dogbone up top, and then the lone trans mount on the driver side subframe. That I'm sure deffinitely causes an unwanted twisting motion.

However in the ng900/og9-3 setup I'm sure that twisting motion is nowhere near as bad since its a triangulated setup. What if instead of mounting the dogbone/brace in the normal spot going from right behind cylinder 4 dead center back to the strut mount brace? That would keep it triangulated in 2 areas perfectly aligned.



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Old 07-15-2008, 07:49 PM   #17
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what about 2 top mounts, one on each side?
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:19 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny72888 View Post
what about 2 top mounts, one on each side?
That, could require some tough fabircation.

I agree that from all the car I've driven, seen, and watched run on the dyno the engine is noticeable more stable with the top mount from a 9k. I'd be interested to see what more information is out there to prove or deny this.
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:45 AM   #19
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Do you have all 3 GS mounts?

I need to do my rear mount, the stocker is shot. I have the other 2 GS mounts in currently.
I gots the poly trans mount and the rear diesel engine mount. Very thing is still pretty smooth. Sometimes wonder if it was necessary on my only stg 3 car, but I considered it preventative maint type upgrade.
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:30 AM   #20
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I will keep this short, little busy..

Every top mount I have seen was pointed down in the front. This will only add more load down on the rear mount and force forward on the front mounts. It needs to point up(on the engine side) to vector the force off of the rear mount. John, this is most likely why you were breaking the rear mounts.

I learned early on developing these mounts that it was important to keep the mounts symmetrical to eliminate torque pulling most noticeable on the highway.
Stock engine mounts only allow maybe 1degree rotational freedom of the powertrain. You are not loosing any energy. Otherwise if you were loosing power into the mounts then the mounts would be getting very hot. Thats basic physics.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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