Diesel Rear Motor Mount - Page 2 - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 07-16-2008, 05:15 PM   #21
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I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one

No question more power is put to the ground with the top mount on the car and I actually broke rear mounts trying to run without it as you suggested and once I went back to it, clutch started slipping again, immediately, and I still have movement of a weak used rear motor mount, but have not broken one again.

I think if you tested with and without one, you would see and feel everything I am talking about. Even with both poly mounts up front and no top mount, my motor goes way back on full load and there definetely seems to be some wasted energy. Not that it matters much in our case of big power, but its still there none the less....

You could always make a strut bar mount like Kyankton did to put the load more in the middle of the engine.

John
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:54 PM   #22
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Ok It is not opinion.. but physics..

The clutch slips because of the shock load. You need a certain amount of "give" in the mounts to keep the shock load down on the gearbox and associated parts. This is a compromise with trying to prevent windup or "Wheel hop" This is not as simple as it sounds since everything from rear sprig rate to bushing harness to upright stiffness and tire side-walls have a influence on this frequency.

If we talk about wasted energy rotating the powertain on the "softer mounts".. Say the engine is accelerating at a measly 250rpm/s (Quite slow actually) And the engine is allowed to rotate maybe 5deg (that is an exageration bear with me) There are 2 axis of rotation depending on load. One is the crankshaft the other is the driveshafts.

250rpm/s = 90,000 degrees/second So those 5 degrees take a whopping .00005 seconds! That is at 4 seconds per 1000 rpm acceleration rate..
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
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Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:00 PM   #23
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Hey, now you have said somthing that makes sense to me

Shock load would make a lot of sense and instead of rotating or twisting backward, the energy is immediately put to the wheels and this causes more tire spin and of course with a marginal clutch, clutch slippage.

I did notice I would spin the tires much easier with top mount and the shock factor would make some sense.

That would equate to more power to the ground and even though its a small amount, its there. I did stop breaking the passenger side stock motor mount when I went to the top mount and it does seem to keep the drive train in line better, but hey it does not mean my car is any faster for it being there.

I have found many times in life, what works on paper is not always what works in real life and urge you again to test with and without a top mount and then report on you're findings.

We don't have to agree on everything and that is what makes modding fun in my opinion, not everyone has to do everything exactly the same.

You like not running one and feel it puts an uneven load on the other mounts, I feel its a great mod to keep the motor from twisting backward so much and it does seem to get more power to the ground.

I like w/m injection and have been able to run very aggressive timing with it and keep my car a little safer from knock. You don't think its worth doing, its no big deal, we all have our own ideas on what works well and not so well and that is what makes a free country great!

I just had an idea, we can line up and drag race at the track and if I win, I will say its probably because of my top mount and w/m injection and if I loose you can say its probably because of that top mount and w/m injection

John
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:05 AM   #24
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i enjoy reading these battles...

lol soo whos car is faster... the 900 or the viggen?
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:41 AM   #25
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Old 07-24-2008, 08:00 PM   #26
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k so went to replace my mount tonight....got all the bolts undone...but how do you get the mount out??
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Old 07-25-2008, 03:24 AM   #27
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You need to jack up the engine. Use a wood block and jack up the rear of the oil pan slowly until the weight is taken off the mount.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:08 AM   #28
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yeah i did that, still not enouph room to get it out. what about loosening the rear of the subframe? or is this mount separate into two pieces? that would make install a breeze
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:58 AM   #29
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I made my torque damper sit level with the top of the engine. Makes for very crisp shifts, and since I'm running stock boost, I have very little fear of overloading the mounts. I would love to try uprated mounts with and with the damper to see ho wit works.



I hand lathed the damper body, installed an 80D poly cylinder in it, anchored a rod w/heim joint in the poly, and then bolted a heim joint to the outer body. The block bracket and firewall bracket with spreader and backing plate are all hand milled by me on a Bridgeport.
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:36 PM   #30
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Looks nice, how is it attached to the firewall?

John
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:59 PM   #31
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Sorry to revive this thread but 8valve do you have anymore pics of your setup?
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:33 PM   #32
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so is there any rear mounts for a 99 9-3?
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'01 9-3 Vert Stg 2/e85

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Old 05-27-2009, 01:36 PM   #33
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http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/p...71f74eb37a21d3
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:44 PM   #34
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Nick and John

We fabbed up solid mounts in our Drag Rabbit. For a FWD car you want ZERO engine movement b/c an engine rocking back takes load off the front wheels, which equates to wheel spin. Something to think about...

Here's a pic of the solid tranny mount on our Rabbit (rest of the mounts were solid as well):




Hell, we even had solid rear "struts" to prevent weight transfer the engine had on the car. :



Gotta love a rear suspension with only bump stop of rebound travel in it




See how those rear wheels don't droop when lifted
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Last edited by perkj; 05-27-2009 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:07 PM   #35
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thats awesome, hah, never seen anything like that.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:53 PM   #36
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Diesel Rear engine mount. Firmer than std 4cyl mount. Suitable as an upgrade for all 4cyl 900 94-98 and 9-3 00-02 and All Viggen

doesnt say 99 just 00-02
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:57 PM   #37
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Pretty sure that's an error. Shoot GS an email or give them a ring. They will know the real answer.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:58 PM   #38
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Diesel Rear engine mount. Firmer than std 4cyl mount. Suitable as an upgrade for all 4cyl 900 94-98 and 9-3 00-02 and All Viggen

doesnt say 99 just 00-02
i have one on my 99 9-3 vert and it works just fine. The old one was shredded and had no fluid left in it.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:32 PM   #39
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Pretty sure that's an error. Shoot GS an email or give them a ring. They will know the real answer.
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i have one on my 99 9-3 vert and it works just fine. The old one was shredded and had no fluid left in it.
interesting....so its not too hard to do this eh?
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:50 PM   #40
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Are the diesel rear mounts still available? I couldn't find them on the site. I think it's time for the Viggen to get a fresh rear mount.
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