Got my Autometer Boost/Vac, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauges installed. These are the new GS Series with match with the factory lighting almost dead on. I've wired the headlight on/off to the bottem extra 'fog light' switch seen in the 1st pic....so no need to relocate the factory switch into that bottem panel as some have done.
looks like 200-205 is about operating under normal driving. Seen it hit 210 under a couple WOT runs. Keep in mind I'm pulling the oil temp from a sandwich plate at the oil filter vs a tap into the oil pan which is a bit more accurate
great job. nice clean installs and i love the use of factory swithes for other things.
That euro leveling switch has 3 settings right? would it be easy enough to make one be headlights off, another parking lights on, and the final everything on? if so i may have to find one.
To further clarify, the zSeries have the "around the dial" lighting which means the green light is shined on the outside of the dial and then the light is reflexed off the numbers where as the GS Series has "thru the dial" lighting which the green light shines from behind through the numbers.
So when I say the GS Series is more Factory like is because the stock gauge panel is "thru the dial lighting", where as say in my old VWs the "around the dial" was the better match
Your welcome. When you do it go a little at a time as you can leave a little bit of the lip to hold it tight in place. Thats what I did instead of using the brace bar that comes with the gauges.
What exactly are you wanting to know on the pin-outs? Basically to determine which are the outs for the button depress, you just need a multimeter and run a continuity test. To determine which turn on the led light for the switch, just go ahead and connect a 12V +/- to two of them until the light goes on. As far as AMPs, I believe the fog light switch can handle up to 20 AMPs
if you're concerned with the AMPs, you may want to put an in-line fuse going from the hot line into the switch, this way you'll blow the fuse before melting the switch internals.
For anyone wanting one of those Headlight Leveling switch, there is one up for sale on eBay UK (it actually comes with a number of switches (Fog, Dimmer, Headlight and Leveler) for 8 pounds or $15. You'll want to contact the guy first and make sure he'll ship to the US...all are normally willing: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-93-G...ryZ10416QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I think this is the motivation to start looking at installing a boost gauge in my 9-5 light switch position. Might have to buy one off eBay to get the nerve to start cutting. The install on a 9-5 is a little more involved than a 9-3, but using the 9-3 fog light switch for headlights is going to be the same. What did you use to connect the wiring from the harness to the new switch? Male/Female disconnects? Also, any tips on which pins are what for either 9-3 light switch or fog switch?
Also, just to add, that the OnStar button is similar to the Euro leveling switch in that it operates on Ohms. I use it as mute for hard wired V1.
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