Spec stage 3 disk/viggen PP - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 05-24-2008, 03:32 PM   #1
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Spec stage 3 disk/viggen PP

I got the tranny off today and the clutch looked a little glazed to me...

Some Pics:

John
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Old 05-24-2008, 03:36 PM   #2
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How many miles is this with? I know that your use is likely a bit "harder" than the most, but I have this same clutch and PP and am just wondering what to expect. Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2008, 04:30 PM   #3
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It had a season of drag racing on it and it was a new flywheel 2k ago, the disk was marginal then.

Maybe 8k total.... Its that 400wtrq plus that took its toll...

Maptun said I need a spec stage 3+ for the power level I am at now.

John
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Old 05-24-2008, 04:58 PM   #4
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damn

John after watching your videos you posted, im not surprised. Your car is a monster.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:56 PM   #5
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I've got that same setup in my car as well, cable actuated.

Its a bitch in city traffic.
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:57 PM   #6
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That PP has seen some better days lol.



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Old 05-26-2008, 01:33 PM   #7
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For drag use you need quite a bit more clutch than on the street. Robz was using a 1200nm clutch on his drag NG Yes 885ftlbs and still had to rebuild it every year!
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 05-26-2008, 03:59 PM   #8
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Yea, she was in rough shape... I am surprised it was holding as well as it did with it looking so bad...

I just got the new clutch in the car and the tranny back on the car, bled the slave on the bench and got a good bit of air out of it. Now I can't seem to get that last little bit of air out of the system. The pedal goes in about half way or 4-5" before it engages, probably just enough to drive it.

I have tried vacuum from the bleeder on the top of the tranny and pressure from the resivior, but get mostly air out of the bleed nipple, not straight fluid, not sure what I am doing wrong, but I can't seem to get that last bit...

John
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:21 PM   #9
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John, try reverse bleeding it.

pump fluid into the nipple, (pedal out); you wont need pressure. It will work on the first try.

Ive spent more time trying to pressure bleed that damn thing than dropping the tranny.

MarkM
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:16 AM   #10
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I did get the tranny in the car in about 30 minutes, but spent 2 hours trying to pressure bleed it

John
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:17 AM   #11
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John, try reverse bleeding it.

pump fluid into the nipple, (pedal out); you wont need pressure. It will work on the first try.

Ive spent more time trying to pressure bleed that damn thing than dropping the tranny.

MarkM
You would leave the resivior cap off while pumping fluid into the bleed nipple above the tranny?

John
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:43 AM   #12
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Yes, that is the way I did it. I pushed through a fair amount of fluid because I was changing to ATE Superblue. It worked great and only took a couple of minutes.
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You would leave the resivior cap off while pumping fluid into the bleed nipple above the tranny?

John
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:39 PM   #13
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...I left the cap off so I could remove any excess fluid if necessary.

Let us know how it comes out.

MarkM
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:59 PM   #14
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I made a new cap with nipple last night and sealed it with goop and pressure bled it from the resivoir. I was only getting small amounts of fluid out the bleed nipple, but by cycling the pedel in between pressure cycles, it got much better and has almost immediate resistance.

It actually feels really nice now, sooooooooo much better than the cable. If its working right, this is going to be heaven with that aggressive spec presure plate

This has been a lot of work converting the cable to hydraulic, but now that its almost done, I am glad I did it...

I have taken my time this swap, a few to 6 hours a day and doing lots of resting and thinking... Itstead of just hammering it out and feeling like I got hit by a mac truck the next morning

I bench prested the tranny in place again, that is a fun one I actually got lucky and it clicked it in on the 4th try...

I can't wait to try this shorter gear box, just the subframe and dp to go...

John
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:37 AM   #15
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this would be my spec clutch and abbott flywheel after just 3500miles of street use!



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Old 05-28-2008, 01:15 PM   #16
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Does not look like you can replace the flywheel insert piece, is that flywheel turnable? If not, that really sucks! You have glaze as bad as me...

John
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:03 AM   #17
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The one I took out of my Viggen after Robert Uhr gave it some love 20 miles old at the drag strip, then I added 50whp and drove it for another few weeks and drag strip days and it did not look that bad!
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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