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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 01-10-2005, 12:47 PM   #1
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Forge BOV

I just put a Forge BOV on my car to replace my shot Bosch BPV. It was immediately noticeable just how shot the Bosch was when I took the car for a ride. Spool-up was quick and boost was held to the max. And no more F*&%$! honking noise!

However, the Pssshh sound that I expected to hear wasn't so much of pssshh as it was a low growl that I seemed to hear coming from the intake side of the car. I ignored it, assuming that this is what it is supposed to sound like.

Today on the way to work, I noticed that the car was not reaching full boost and was not as quick as it was the other day. It also sounds like it did before... a low growl coming from the intake side of the car when the clutch is depressed to shift gears. Is it possible that the Forge valve is faulty? Since it is their base BOV, it has no adjustment options to it right? Is there something that I have overlooked?

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Old 01-10-2005, 01:05 PM   #2
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You still could have a weak diaphragm in a Forge valve. I have heard of Teflon kits for the diaphragm of the forge valves. Is this a new or a used valve? Did you pop any hoses off anywhere?
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:29 PM   #3
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It's a brand new valve. I also thought that the Forge valve was spring actuated and NOT a diaphragm. I haven't had time to check for popped hoses, but I doubt there are any as I zip-tied everything down after the install... I'll pop the hood and check before i head home though. Mercifully, that's only 45 minutes from now.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:32 PM   #4
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i had the somewhat of the same noises coming from my cone filter when changing gears! I think its your valve no opening letting the air out, how much psi is it rated for?

The way i fixed mine was by spraying it with white lithium grease! I have the Turbo XS valve!
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:34 PM   #5
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The lithium grease is good stuff!! Works wonders on all sorts of stuff.....even on black saabs.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:41 PM   #6
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So what do I need to do with the grease?

I am boosting 15psi, BTW. I'll have to find out what it the Forge is rated for.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:42 PM   #7
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Open the valve and coat the piston with the grease to ensure that it isnt binding while in operation. Also if you look at the forge site it should tell you what spring color is for what rating of PSI. You may just have too stiff a spring in there.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:53 PM   #8
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post a pic of your valve and the model!

Basically do what steve says ....take a part your valve and coat it with the white lithium grease cleanup any access that you may have oversprayed and reinstall!

You could have the wrong spring but i doubt it! Where did u get your valve and did they tell you it was for a saab or universal?

I am using 5 washers on my turboxs and i still get an occasional cough from the cone filter!
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:56 PM   #9
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Just talked with Forge. The guy on the other end said that it may be the secondary spring not being strong enough to stay closed while the main spring/piston is in operation. He recommended two things:

Synthetic automotive grease on the main piston. He also said never use dielectric grease or molybdenum to lube the piston. Hmmm... that sounded rather rude, didn't it? He suggested that I use the grease and see how that works and then get in touch with them regarding the spring if the grease doesn't do the job.
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Old 01-10-2005, 02:07 PM   #10
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Keep us posted on how it goes.
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Old 01-10-2005, 02:07 PM   #11
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wait so is White Lithium grease dielectric?
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Old 01-11-2005, 06:44 AM   #12
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Attached is a picture of the valve I bought. I got it straight from Forge's US website. The guy there said to use ONLY synthetic automotive grease, FWIW. I think the actual business is located in Florida...

On the drive home from work last night, I had the need to pass someone so I dropped down to third and pegged it to get around them quickly. The turbo spooled up, the intake got loud and then there was a high pitched squeal/screech that was in time with the amount of boost being applied. THAT concerned me. More on this in a minute.

Anyway, I took the valve apart last night and applied the synthetic automotive grease to the piston. It was pretty clear to me that the main spring is/was functioning fine, as the yellow paint from the spring has flaked off into the hollow space in the piston from the spring compressing and releasing. I have no way of telling if the secondary spring is working properly though.

When I took the car out again, boost was better, but there was still a cough from the cone filter, whether the car was under full boost or not. I even heard a slight squeal at higher boost. It sounded like when you let air out of a balloon really slowly. At that point I remembered seeing in a forum that someone was bummed about their new Forge valve not doing what they had hoped it would do. When they posted the pic of their valve it showed that the silicone hose attached to the nipple on the valve was kinked... badly. So I checked my hose.

My hose was kinked a little bit, but under vacuum, I'm sure it got worse. Problem solved! I thought. I'll change out the hose for a longer piece and that will end the cough, the slower-than-it-should-be spool-up and that squeal all in one fell swoop.

Well, not quite.

The squeal has been eliminated. However spool-up still lags between 10 and 15 lbs of boost and there is still the cough from the cone filter. I have a feeling that the problem may be something else entirely...

While the car is gaining boost, there is a spraying sound from the front right hand side of the car. I think its fairly distinct from the intake whoosh. It's not there all the time, just between 10 -15 lbs of boost. Could it be an intercooler hose has cracked? Would this create the cough, slow spool-up and the spraying noise? Would it be intermittent like this or only effecting boost at higher levels? How do I check for this?

I am starting to feel a bit at my wit's end. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 01-11-2005, 06:52 AM   #13
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you shouldn't use the rubber vacuum hoses... The hard plastic ones is much better and won't implode under vacuum when warm..


This is the BOV I'll be using...
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1/8mile = 8,807sec @ 87,1mph
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:39 AM   #14
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That's the same Forge I have...whssssh. You might try swapping with a friend to see if their BOV works.

To get that kind of boost...are you using an MBC or Dawes device? Hopefully you know to readjust after installing the new intake and BOV.

Did you replace any other vacuum lines during your quest to solve this? If not have you checked for leaks. Sounds like you handled the return line for your stock BPV using the new intake?

Check the 3 lines from you boost controller. Especially the one into the wastegate, and then try running the car and moving your vacuum lines around to see how she reponds at idle. Check the base of the throttle body where the two vacuum lines come in....sometimes they crack at the connector on the bottom and hard to see.

When I found some cracked lines at the rear of engine bay near the throttle body, I ended up replacing all of my vacuum lines with the red silicon type....SAAB Savior has a kit to replace them.

Please let us know what solved it...

regards
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:43 AM   #15
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Hey Mike~

That BOV looks like an air raid siren for chrissakes! Nice work on the car, BTW. Any thoughts on the intercooler hose?

Skol! (I hope that means what I think it means! )
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:44 AM   #16
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interesting........

im curious to see what kind of feedback you get on this, as i still get the occasional cough from my cone filter! i do get the squeal under low boost! i actually like the squeal sound better than the PSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHH sound!

I popped my hood and manually pulled back on the throttle and reved it! i could here the air coming back out from the cone filter! The rattling noise i was getting was from the metal piece around the end of the cone filter that was rubbing on the fender well with the engine vibration. I fixed it by adding a small strip of double sided tape!
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Old 01-11-2005, 08:05 AM   #17
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I replaced all the vacuum lines with red silicone back in the fall, so I wouldn't think they'd be the problem. It is a good thought though, and I checked them anyway just to make sure. Nothing there.

I am using an MBC+A. The hoses to and from the wastegate are okay as well as from the hose tap by the throttle body to the valve on the MBC+A. According to the VDO gauge I have, I'm not losing vacuum anywhere. The needle is where it has always been when at idle or at cruising speed.

I have not adjusted the valve itself, but have set the "anticipator" to be a little more open for the cold weather per manufacturer's instructions. Would you recommend that I do some other tweaking with that? Might be useful...

When this whole issue started, I had thought that my BPV had shit the bed. I was on the highway, heard a fairly loud 'Pop!' and lost boost. Couldn't boost past 5 lbs and limped home. Went through the whole rigamaroll of testing with a functioning BPV and all that. The other BPV got boost back up and that seemed to solve the problem. Easy enough. Replace it with something better. Since this hasn't completely alleviated the problem, I am assuming that one of the hoses that I haven't looked at is the culprit.

Where else should I look for this phantom leak?
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Old 01-11-2005, 08:24 AM   #18
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Checking all of the IC hoses for cracks and leaks is the first place I would start. Also have you tried pulling out your MBC and running the car on the T5 system with the new valve to see if you still get the issue? The cough and what not from the cone sounds normal as my 86 C900 had the same thing with a Turbo XS RFL valve on it. Once I went back to a stock valve I didnt get any more cough. I think you should also swap your valve into a buddies car and see it the problem still persists.
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Old 01-11-2005, 08:30 AM   #19
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Is there any sort of special thing to look for while checking the IC hoses? Check them with the engine running, that sort of thing. You know like a standard test or something?

Good idea Steve, I'll try it on a friend's car and see if he has the same noise.
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Old 01-11-2005, 08:36 AM   #20
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As painful as it is I have always just pulled the hoses off and gone over them with a fine tooth comb to look for cracks and holes in them. Also it could be a loose clamp on them or (not that I think this is it) I have also seen small cracks in the end tanks of IC's that cause the same issues and only show up under full boost. If you need it I have a stock Bosch valve I can send you for testing purposes.
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