Removing exhaust manifold on Viggen/T7 Saabs???

[perkj]

I check the saab WIS on the proceedure for removing the exhaust manifold on the 9-3 Viggen (which happens to be the same for all T7 equip cars 2.3 or 2.0L). The proceedure outlined is quite a bit more complex then that of the T5 cars. Can someone please confirm the steps outlined below are indeed needed....or can the manifold just be simply unbolted without having to go thru each and every step below:


Dismantling - Exhaust Manifold
Dismantling - Exhaust Manifold
===========

1. Open the expansion tank's filler cap to release system pressure.

2. Raise the car.

3. Drain the coolant by connecting a hose, opening the drain plug and collecting the coolant in a suitable receptacle.

4. Slacken the bolt securing the turbocharger mounting to the cylinder block.

5. Undo the upper bolt on the turbo's mounting.

6. Detach the coolant pipe from the turbocharger.

7. Detach the turbo's return hose to the sump.

8. Remove the turbo's oil pipe to the oil filter adapter, collect the oil in a receptacle.

9. Undo the lower nut on the joint between the turbocharger and the front exhaust pipe.

10. Lower the car to the floor.

11. Remove the bypass pipe with valve. Collect the O-ring at the connection to the turbo's intake pipe.
Bend the bypass pipe aside.

12. Remove the exhaust manifold's heat shield.

13. Unplug the solenoid valve's connector.

14. Remove the connecting hose between the mass air flow sensor and the turbo's intake pipe.

15. Detach the crankcase ventilation pipe secured to the turbo's intake pipe and the camshaft cover. Bent the pipe aside.

16. Detach the solenoid valve hoses, noting their positions.

17. Remove the engine's lifting eye.

18. Remove the turbo's intake pipe from the turbocharger, V-clamp.

19. Plug the turbo's inlet opening.

20. Undo the 2 upper nuts between the turbocharger and front exhaust pipe.

21. Carefully move the front exhaust pipe out of the way.

22. Remove the turbo's coolant return pipe from the cylinder head and pressure sensor mounting.

23. Remove the wastegate from the turbo, 2 bolts.

24. Undo the nuts securing the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold and slightly lower the turbocharger.

25. Relieve the multigroove V-belt of tension, using a flexible handle. Lock the belt tensioner with a 3 mm drill bit or the like.

26. Prise the belt off the power steering pump's pulley.

27. Remove the through bolts securing the pump to the bracket.

28. Swing the pump up and remove the lower bolt and the 2 upper bolts.

29. Carefully lift aside the power steering pump, complete with bracket, and secure it with a cable tie or the like.

30. Remove the exhaust manifold.

[stevehayes01]

Thats the same procedure that is listed in the Mitchel service guide as well for the T-7 2.0 Litre motor.

[mike saunders]

It sounds a lot harder than it is.

You'll need to drain the coolant because the upper coolant supply tube will drain most of the block and upper hose. Catch it in a bucket and reuse it.

The tricky parts are the lower nut on the downpipe flange -- this is probably rusted shut and will need to be coaxed off with Liquid Wrench or a blowtorch -- and the power steering pump. Get a strong zip tie and move it out of the way by tieing somewhere to the radiator crossmember.

The manifold itself is easy. With the turbo off, you can wiggle the manifold off the studs and there's about a half-inch of clearance....

[ricot83]

easy u say.... my car has proven to make everything impossible... lol... no matter how simple something should be nothing ever goes right... it would seem the ex owner loved to spray road salt on absolutely everything lol but ya its a lot easier than it looks buddy

[mike saunders]

Yeah, I should have factored in the rusted bolts from the road salt...I ended up having to heat the lower downpipe bolt red-hot with a MAPP torch and used a bolt extractor to finally get it off. I've seen some instances where people just used a Dremel to cut the sucker off....

Either way, you can get replacement bolts and nuts at eeuroparts.com .

PerkJ, if you'tre lucky, you live in the sunbelt and won't have too much nut corrosion to deal with.

[perkj]

Originally Posted by mike saunders

PerkJ, if you'tre lucky, you live in the sunbelt and won't have too much nut corrosion to deal with.

I do live in the sunbelt (CA), but my Viggen is a NY car and has it fair share of engine rust....so I'm sure it'll be a pain in the ass. I can't believe that the removal of the exhaust manifold requires a drain of the coolant and all the rest of those steps.....what the hell was Saab thinking!!!

[mike saunders]

Perkj, the reason it's so complicated is because the manifold connects to the turbo, which is both water and oil cooled. It's a good design that usually allows the turbo to last for 150K miles or more....

Just soak those downpipe bolts, try to remove them, and if they don't come off, heat them with a torch, or Dremel them off. The manifold studs should come off easy.

Just in case, get a spare three or four from eeuroparts.com.