b234 build for the viggen - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 04-18-2008, 09:52 AM   #1
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b234 build for the viggen

engine b234
parts replaced
From Eeuroparts (eeuroparts.com)
8822033 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
8822041E Valve Cover Gasket
9173576 Oil Pump Seal
9130600 Oil Pump O-Ring
9131145 Timing Chain (Endless)
9145376 Timing chain guide (tensioner)
32000421 Chain Guide
9113937 Turbocharger Gasket
9145418 Main Bearings Set

From the Saab Site
75-88-783 Thrust Washer Set
02-69-304 Rod Bearing Set (9145459)

From Saab
B234 Oil pump gears
from genuine saab je forged pistons

W/ Complete B234 (block, head, manifolds,timing cover etc.):
B234 timing cover
(B235)intake manifold (inc. throttle body)
(B235) exhaust manifold
ALL B234 accessories (ie water pump, oil pump, oil pan, alternator etc...)
viggen transmission
viggen clutch and flywheel assembly
234 oil pan

as far as having a engine with over 130k on it,it would be safe to have the cylenders honed right?
does this setup look right for a engine build in my viggen?
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:11 AM   #2
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Its best to have the bores checked at a machine shop and then have them hone it professionally. If you want to just hone it, that would be advised so the new piston rings get a good seal

I did not think the 9k oil pan would work with dp, but let us know if it does because it holds another qt of oil!

John
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:17 AM   #3
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Looks like what was done to my vig engine. Should be good.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:23 AM   #4
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You may want to get the block decked and head resurfaced as well to ensure you get a nice flat mating surfaces.

BTW: why the Forged Pistons on a B234 motor??? Unless your going to go to very high HP numbers, the B234 piston are very stout and should be able to handle just about anything you throw at them....seems like money not well spent.
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Last edited by perkj; 04-18-2008 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:53 AM   #5
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im shooting for 400hp but with so many miles i figure why not change the pistons now wile the block is being rebuilt
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:07 PM   #6
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are the t7 manifolds going to work on the t5 head?
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:32 PM   #7
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are the t7 manifolds going to work on the t5 head?
I think he'll need to run the Viggen head.
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Old 04-18-2008, 01:29 PM   #8
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thats what i was thinking...
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Old 04-18-2008, 02:41 PM   #9
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Best just to keep the 2x5 block.. Unless there is more damage.. You will have to deal with the more basic crank vent of the 2x4 block.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:21 PM   #10
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what about rods? im dont want to have to go through all of this again,and myhead is beyond repair..warped melted...the whole 9
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:36 PM   #11
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Rods have to match the pistons.. The crank is the same.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:41 PM   #12
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Best just to keep the 2x5 block.. Unless there is more damage.. You will have to deal with the more basic crank vent of the 2x4 block.
I thought the 2x5 block had less sheer webing and that would mean less strength. I like sticking with the b204/b234 block.

I broke a b234 piston and if you ever want to push it really hard, the forged pistons will come in handy

John
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:44 PM   #13
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Sap on central stuck the B234 into his Viggen with Vig head.

Two stock Viggen's did head-to-head Dyno pulls and his came out nearly 20hp ahead
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:51 PM   #14
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i need rods for shore and i figured i would go with the b234's but why not just use the whole block,my 235 block is a mess and rusted out through the coolant manifold.i just dont feel safe with useing that block on what happend.and i cant ifnd a low millage 234 engine ..ahhh so what should i do?hlep me get the viggn going pleeeeeeeeeaaaaase im dieing here. i wonder if nick could wip somthin up for me
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:21 AM   #15
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If you are going to re-fresh the b234 block, the mileage is not so important as you will put in new main and rod bearings and new piston rings!

I bought a high mileage, 180k b234 block, had it checked at the machine shop and the bores showed almost no wear at all and the engine builder said the second compression ring was just getting broke in The cylinder bores measured on the low end scale of the wear, they were basically as good as a new cylinder and no where near the end of the wear limit.

We had them honed, put in new total seal rings and replaced the rod and main bearings and the motor ran great!

John
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:19 AM   #16
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In a way, high mileage blocks are superior to new blocks because they've been heat cycled.....that is unless you heat cycle the new block before the build up. I suggest going to the first over bore with the pistons on the used block to ensure the piston bores are dead on.
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:10 PM   #17
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so the 235 manifold will not fot on the 234?
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:17 PM   #18
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Inlet or exhaust?
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:09 AM   #19
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intake
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:56 AM   #20
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how come your using the 234 timing cover and sump? seems an odd choice to change the whole auxillary belt setup for the more complicted 9k style. also the sump pan on a 234 is massive compared to the 235 and is designed for an engine that slants backwards ie 9k it wont be right in your viggen.
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