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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 03-29-2008, 01:46 PM   #1
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New Parts, now new noises...

I've been driving my car for a week now after getting the new viggen clutch and PP installed. Also installed simultaneously, was the GenuineSaab sport transmission mount (manual), the upgraded rear engine mount (Saab part), and the GS front polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings.

The driveline is nice and tight now. New clutch holds power just fine which is a nice change over the old clutch that was slipping.

New problem though. I have a nice loud POP under hard braking in straight line. And the POP also will occur subsequently with acceleration after hard braking. This noise emanates from the front left of the car. I am not a mechanic, but I think this is in the area of the clutch assembly.

Can someone help guide me in as much as what is not tight? Or where I should look. I took the car to a Saab indy in our area. Maybe it should have gone to the dealer instead. This just irritates me because a trained mechanic is supposed to be able to do this right the first time. Damn. I can't have the car acting this way if I am to take it to a track later this summer.

I am thinking maybe the sport trans mount wasn't torqued correctly? Are the torque specs for the GS product any different than Saab spec? I would think not as the bolts are re-used. Thanks for any input.
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:11 PM   #2
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You say under hard braking in a straight line... In gear? Clutch pedal pushed in?

Strut mount? Ball joint? Any noises on hard cornering?
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:18 PM   #3
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Poly bushings + not enough torque on em.

My front control arms are poly. Come to a stop; Click. Accelerate from a said stop, click.

It' only happens when shifting of weight occurs, correct?
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:42 PM   #4
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You say under hard braking in a straight line... In gear? Clutch pedal pushed in?

Strut mount? Ball joint? Any noises on hard cornering?
Yes, noises from front right on hard corner....but that I think is unrelated and thus was not in the original post. I have had that right front ball joint replaced before and I think it is needed again.

The original symptom (the POP) can occur with clutch engaged or disengaged. Doesn't matter. And yes, does occur with hard weight transfer, front to rear, not lateral.
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:31 PM   #5
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maybe they didn't tighten down the subframe bolts all the way. I've had mine come loose on me with the increased vibration from the poly motor mounts. It could also be a balljoint since they pop when they are failing.
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:38 AM   #6
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Most likely are the rear subframe bolts. They are the longitudinal suspension mount too. It is critical to torque them properly.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:28 AM   #7
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Most likely are the rear subframe bolts. They are the longitudinal suspension mount too. It is critical to torque them properly.
Thanks for that advice. Do you have a graphic reference on your site for these, by chance?

I don't understand though why they would have had to messwith any of the subframe bolts. The only place they should have gotten near to messing with the subframe would be undoing the ARB connector bolts, and I know from experience those can be disconnected without disconnecting any other bolts...
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:31 AM   #8
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Tito your entire subframe was out when they/you did the clutch. So if it wasn't tightend up properly then thats where the pop could be coming from.



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Old 03-30-2008, 12:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NahumCC View Post
Tito your entire subframe was out when they/you did the clutch. So if it wasn't tightend up properly then thats where the pop could be coming from.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:46 PM   #10
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Tito your entire subframe was out when they/you did the clutch. So if it wasn't tightend up properly then thats where the pop could be coming from.
Nice, ok that explains this a lot better. I told you guys I wasn't a mechanic and I stand by that. I will have them or the dealer check the subframe assembly the next time it's in....which may be soon due to rust repair that I am needing on this car. My 7 year old Corsica never had body rust...
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Old 03-30-2008, 02:33 PM   #11
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Tito another thing to check is to make sure that the jam nut on the outer control arm bushing was actually torqued down good and tight. Dan and I down at RTS had to hit each side with an air gun 3 times.



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Old 04-04-2008, 05:32 AM   #12
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Update... I torqued down the rear subframe bolt to the proper torque of 81 ft-lb + 90 degrees. This seems to have quelled this noise, after driving it around for about 3 days now. I found the bolt to be torqued to no more than about 45 ft-lb, which is half what is supposed to be...Now I should go back and check all the bolts...
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