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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 03-23-2008, 09:46 PM   #1
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mechanical vs electrical gauge

So the wife asked what I wanted for my B-day, and I said she should hook me up with a pillar pod (do the 99 9-3 have a dual one, doesnt look like it on GS) and a boost gauge.

question is, do you all run mechanical in the pillar pods? or do you run electrical? I looked over some install how to's, but I can seem to answer that.

Thanks,
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:57 PM   #2
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I had the same question..came across one for cheap before.
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:22 PM   #3
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Yes there is a dual pod for the 99 9-3. I see your confusion since Nick has taken it down off the site. Give him a call and talk to him. I got mine from Nick last year when I asked him if he could bring them in.

As for mech vs. elec gauge preference. Its all about what your willing to spend and what you wish your gauges to reflect. Obviously mechanical are cheaper than electrical gauges. The thing is that a mechanical gauge shows the actual rate of change that occurs while an electric gauge just goes straight to whatever the programmed value may be.

The best example of this is to install a mechanical boost gauge and then compare the reaction time from the mech gauge to the in-dash gauge. The in-dash gauge will always be behind when reading the value out.



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Old 03-24-2008, 05:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NahumCC View Post
The thing is that a mechanical gauge shows the actual rate of change that occurs while an electric gauge just goes straight to whatever the programmed value may be.

The best example of this is to install a mechanical boost gauge and then compare the reaction time from the mech gauge to the in-dash gauge. The in-dash gauge will always be behind when reading the value out.
That isn't a very good example. Aftermarket electric gauges don't really get affected in that manner.
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Old 03-24-2008, 06:48 AM   #5
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It depends on what you want to measure. For a boost use a mechanical gauge, its cheaper, just as accurate and easy to install. For oil pressure use an electrical to avoid running an oil line into the cabin. For air/fuel and EGT you don’t really have a choice, it has to be an electric gauge.
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Old 03-24-2008, 06:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
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It depends on what you want to measure. For a boost use a mechanical gauge, its cheaper, just as accurate and easy to install. For oil pressure use an electrical to avoid running an oil line into the cabin. For air/fuel and EGT you don’t really have a choice, it has to be an electric gauge.
Actually EGT is Mechanical/Electric. Has a probe which are similar but not exactly like the liquid temperature gauges
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:27 AM   #7
 
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With an electrical gauge with peak/warning options, you can see the highest boost of your last run, and set a warning light level....
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:46 PM   #8
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With an electrical gauge with peak/warning options, you can see the highest boost of your last run, and set a warning light level....
That's pretty convenient..
But it's more fun to see the sweep of a mechanical .
I'm looking for a boost gauge with a higher range now and I'll get a mechanical one just for that.
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:19 PM   #9
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My friend has an electrical analog. As in you still see the sweep. It does the whole sweep thing on startup when it first gets power and the other good thing about it is that it calibrates itself to atmospheric every time it starts.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:08 PM   #10
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My friend has an electrical analog. As in you still see the sweep. It does the whole sweep thing on startup when it first gets power and the other good thing about it is that it calibrates itself to atmospheric every time it starts.
Whoo sounds expensive, but cool all the same.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Adrenaline406 View Post
My friend has an electrical analog. As in you still see the sweep. It does the whole sweep thing on startup when it first gets power and the other good thing about it is that it calibrates itself to atmospheric every time it starts.
make/model of the gauge?
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:16 PM   #12
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Sounds like a ProSport gauge.. Not the best in terms of quality, but they look cool.

These days, electric works exact same as mechanical.. You have a sender/electronic sensor that is tapped into the boost line, and instead of routing the actual line, you just need to route 1 wire into the cabin. They should both show the same thing, with the mechanical being more precise. That, however, would not be noticeable to the human eye anyway..
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:42 PM   #13
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Should I stay away from ProSport then? I was thinking AutoMeter since they are pretty popular.

Is there a point to having a Non-wide band (narrow band then) A/F gauge? They are 10x cheaper, but I figure there is a reason why. Also, with a A/F gauge, you need another bung right? You cant just make one O2 sensor do double duty can you...
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:50 PM   #14
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AutoMeter are known for their performance and reliability, but ProSport should be fine as a "show" gauge. It all depends what you want to achieve. Do you want more of a cool looking gadget or do you want to actually monitor your performance?

There is no point in the narrowband A/F gauges on our cars, as you won't really be able to diagnose anything with them..

By the way, here is an amazing price for a set of FOUR great Autometer gauges. If you decide to go that route, have a look at this:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/lot-of-4-automete...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoisonBeef View Post
make/model of the gauge?
Its an autometer gauge... blue background, bright as hell (its one downfall but that can be fixed)
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:13 PM   #16
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my cousin has prosport gauges in his eclipse. they seem pretty nice.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:08 PM   #17
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I like mechanical. I have white faced vdo gauges in the vert.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:15 PM   #18
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My prosport has been nothing but awesome since I bought it. I would buy another prosport over any autometer out there for sure. I think the build quality is much higher with the prosport gauges.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoisonBeef View Post
Is there a point to having a Non-wide band (narrow band then) A/F gauge? They are 10x cheaper, but I figure there is a reason why. Also, with a A/F gauge, you need another bung right? You cant just make one O2 sensor do double duty can you...
Still wondering... as long as people are updating this thread....
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:15 AM   #20
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There is another choice as far as Air/Fuel which is a millivolts reader. It wires up to your existing o2 sensor and gives you a reading in millivolts, did quite a bit of reading on this subject and these things a very precise. One company that makes them is Dynotune. Installation is pretty simple. I've got an extra 2 1/16 black on black VDO boost gauge (mechanical) which is barely used and in great shape if interested. Only thing missing is the tubing.
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