9-3 intercooler re-install, or fixing a problem before it happens. - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 03-15-2008, 12:26 PM   #1
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9-3 intercooler re-install, or fixing a problem before it happens.

So, I blew an IC hose off last week. When I was poking around, I was uh, underwhelmed by the tubing setup. I'm sure it was fine when it went in, but time has taken it's toll, and any of these were a boost leak waiting to happen:

Here is what was on the car:






Those grooves are from the oil lines to the turbo. I have zip-tied them out of the way, and they actually take a smoother route now.

Here is why you DON'T use screw type clamps on silicone couplers:



I mocked up some tubing, and I think I'll be able to clean it up a bit, and get a nice performance increase as well (cue vigge saying "no") plus, the parts will be shiny, and that's a plus. My intercooler has 2.5 inlet/outlet to my surprise, so I will be doing a full 2.5" system with the 3" GS elbow. It is my hope that this actually slows the spool a little bit, and allows me to pass people without the massive 24 psi boost hit that makes the car jerk into the other lane. A bit smoother would be nice. It's kinda like "WHAM" right now. It's fun, but a bit impractical.


Looking at my dyno sheet from a while ago, you can see the boost drop off in the high rpm's. I think that this is due to 2 things...

1. Heatsoak. The dyno shop has the same fan we use to dry the carpet out at work.

2. Stock tubing. I know there will be some naysayers, but when I put larger tubing on my C900, it was like a different car above 3500 rpms. Also, if you look at the graph, you can see boost taper off, but the torque stays the same. Trionic is neat.

I hope to keep the boost more constant in the higher RPM's as well.

Here is what I mocked up:



I/C to throttle body:

I'm kinda guessing on the top part, until the GS elbow gets here.

The tightest spot:

I moved the AC lines a bit, and freed up some room.


I also shot a bunch of degreaser into my intercooler, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Then I ran a bunch of HOT water through it. The water that came out was pretty grundy.

I'm ordering stuff today, I hope to be back on the road in a week or so.


My view for the next few days:


I get to drive the 86 all week.
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Old 03-15-2008, 12:29 PM   #2
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Excellent work. At least 25 hp worth, IMHO.

Make sure you check the tubing on the windshield washer fluid, though. I've been told that important to check and can be pricey to fix.
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Old 03-15-2008, 12:30 PM   #3
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looks much better.

PS- at my work, we carry screw type clamps that dont have holes in them. They are pricey though.
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Old 03-15-2008, 12:40 PM   #4
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Just an FYI...


Boostcontroller.com sells 90 angle silicone with 10" legs on both ends. If you plan things out, you can use the leftover parts for joining tubing.
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:15 PM   #5
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Very nice, but get rid of the hose clamps and get some constant torque clamps and never look back.
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:19 PM   #6
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Don't worry.

I just placed a large order, with 16 "constant torque" clamps, and a mountain of silicone.

The couplers you see in the pictures are some cheap shit rubber ones from an e-bay tubing kit someone was kind enough to give me. The tubing itself is very nice, but the couplers are just thick rubber. They are actually handy to have around for mocking stuff up.


Oh, and the RFL is going on this car.

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Old 03-15-2008, 01:27 PM   #7
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Rfl?
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:29 PM   #8
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Turbo XS RFL BOV.


The one from the 86. They are trading.
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Turbo XS RFL BOV.


The one from the 86. They are trading.
Ah, I see. Don't the BOV's have some issues on a T7 system?
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:33 PM   #10
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Here is what I mocked up:

Is it just me, or does that elbow not look like silicone?


Anyway, awesome palmer. I love doing FMIC installs, probably the most fun I have working on cars. Good luck with everything. Oh, and careful driving the '86 next week... you might not wanna hop back in the GM!
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregabbott View Post
Ah, I see. Don't the BOV's have some issues on a T7 system?
99=t5



Quote:
Originally Posted by IronJoe View Post
Is it just me, or does that elbow not look like silicone?


Anyway, awesome palmer. I love doing FMIC installs, probably the most fun I have working on cars. Good luck with everything. Oh, and careful driving the '86 next week... you might not wanna hop back in the GM!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmer View Post

The couplers you see in the pictures are some cheap shit rubber ones from an e-bay tubing kit someone was kind enough to give me. The tubing itself is very nice, but the couplers are just thick rubber. They are actually handy to have around for mocking stuff up.


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Old 03-15-2008, 01:57 PM   #12
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Whoops! Looks like I fail at reading comprehension.
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Old 03-15-2008, 02:36 PM   #13
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Excellent.

My car has some less then ideal ic and intake plumbing on it....I'll fix it soon enough.
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Old 03-15-2008, 05:48 PM   #14
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Damn man, you got to splurge q bit and get come T-clamps like mine:








BTW: Nice choice on you IC
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:23 PM   #15
 
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I just placed a large order, with 16 "constant torque" clamps, and a mountain of silicone.
Awesome...constant torque clamps are the way to go, especially in areas you can't get to easily for retightening....
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:56 PM   #16
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Just make sure that you don't clamp those constant torque clamps too much. I have snapped probably 4 of them. The "T" end of the bolt will pop out of the metal loops that hold it in place. Makes for a difficult roadside repair when the clamp is broken and you need to fix the clamp before you can fix the I/C piping or your T7 car just stalls and you can hardly drive it.

So, that said, be careful when tightening the crap out of those clamps! Other than that, they work very nicely.
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:56 AM   #17
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Just make sure that you don't clamp those constant torque clamps too much. I have snapped probably 4 of them. The "T" end of the bolt will pop out of the metal loops that hold it in place. Makes for a difficult roadside repair when the clamp is broken and you need to fix the clamp before you can fix the I/C piping or your T7 car just stalls and you can hardly drive it.

So, that said, be careful when tightening the crap out of those clamps! Other than that, they work very nicely.
Are you talking T-Bolt clamps or constant torque? Constant Torque clamps do not have loops thus they will not snap, but both pretty much do the same.
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Old 03-16-2008, 07:28 AM   #18
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I meant "T" clamps.


I priced out the CT ones, and went "cheap" this time.
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Old 03-16-2008, 07:34 AM   #19
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looks much better.

PS- at my work, we carry screw type clamps that dont have holes in them. They are pricey though.
Screw type clamps are shit, the only good clamps I've seen are the T clamps.
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Old 03-16-2008, 03:49 PM   #20
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I thought T-clamps were constant tension clamps.

::Runs to the web to check and see how dumb I might be on this topic...
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