GS motor mount install - The Saab Link Forums

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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 01-06-2008, 01:20 PM   #1
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GS motor mount install

We put one on LikeTheWords car today. It was pretty easy, once you get to the motormount.


Needed:

Ramps
Jack
Jackstands
16mm socket
8" ratchet extension
8mm hex key
5/16" socket fot undertray hardware
Phillips screwdriver


You have to get the car on ramps, then get the under tray off:


At this point, break the lugnuts loose, jack the passenger side up a bit, and remove the ramp. Then when you set your jackstand, take the wheel off.

Then the front 1/3 of the fender well has to come out.




Fold the back 2/3 of the liner back, and you will see this:


Now you need to support the motor.

We used a jack, and a 6" section of 2x4 flat on the top of the jack. We used the oil pan as our jackpoint. That's why you want to use the 2x4...to spread the load out. Before you start to unbolt things, "preload" the engine. We jacked it up about 1/4" of an inch.


Now you can unbolt stuff. The mount is held to the body by 2 bolts with 15 or 16mm heads. You will also need a 8" extension to get to them.

You will need to lift the motor so the 8mm hex head is visible.


Loosen the 8mm in the center of the mount first. Just break it loose.

Then take off the 16mm bolts.

Then remove the 8mm hex bolt. It's threading out of aluminum, be careful!


Lower the motor until it's on the subframe. The mount should come out with a bit of pulling.

Put the new mount on the pins and install the 8mm bolt all the way. Snug, but not tight.

Installation is the reverse of removal.
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Last edited by Palmer; 01-16-2008 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:49 PM   #2
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Make sure you get the tranny mount.

Last edited by Palmer; 01-06-2008 at 02:02 PM. Reason: No need to quote ALL the pictures.
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:49 PM   #3
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So did you encounter the PITA about getting the mount off the bracket that I told you about?



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Old 01-06-2008, 02:01 PM   #4
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No, it went very smoothly.


We had to raise the engine to get to the 8mm bolt, then we had to drop the motor onto the subframe to get the mount off.

It was pretty easy.

I should have taken notes. Maybe Dan will chime in about the order.

More later.
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmer View Post
No, it went very smoothly.


We had to raise the engine to get to the 8mm bolt, then we had to drop the motor onto the subframe to get the mount out.

It was pretty easy.

I should have taken notes. Maybe Dan will chime in about the order.

More later.
Nice then. Guess mine just decided to be problematic.



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Old 01-06-2008, 03:01 PM   #6
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We did the tranny mount as well. Just didn't post on it since Nick has info on what to do on his website also several others have done write-ups in the past. We really only documented the motor mount because I couldn't find any info on Nick's sight or anywhere really...

I have a 6 point subframe brace so it made things a little odd to work with as far as jacking on the motor. We where able to do it with it still on though. Here is how it went. (Including all the tools listed by Palmer.)

1. Removed passenger side wheel.
2. Removed all passenger side plastic fender liner and under the bumper liner.
3. Supported engine on jack using a bock of wood jacked against the oil pan.
4. Jacked-up on the motor until the hex bolt in the middle of the mount was visable.
5. Used a 8mm hex on the recessed bolt backed it out as far as possible.
6. Jack the motor up some more and back the bolt out again. It will feel loose but not come out. Leave it at that.
7. Use a 16mm socket w/ extension on the bolts for the U part of the mount. Back them out evenly.
8. Once 16mm bolts are removed pull/wiggle the mount towards you.
9. Once the old mount is removed push-out the center bolt to be re-used.
10. Put thread locker on all 3 bolts.
11. Push the mount back into place. (Towards the engine.) Make sure pin on the mount and bolt both go through true. Tighten hex w/ 8mm.
12. Align the mount with the subframe and tighten both 16mm bolts back into place.

Then you got her all done!

Driving impressions. Addional vibration is noticable with both tranny and engine mount in place only at cold start-up. Once car is running both driving and idle everything feels pretty much the same. Engine movement is greatly decreased thus throttle tip-in is much quicker. Shifting with regard to the clutch engagement is also much improved. I would say money and time well spent.

I want to say thanks to both Palmer and JK for helping out today. We enjoyed an odd spot of nice weather here in MN today a balmy 45 plus! I had a great time with them as always. A tip of the hat I say!
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:17 PM   #7
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Not like I didn't get a phone call.
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:38 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info. Mine is on the to do list in the next few weeks.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:52 PM   #9
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New info:

The bolts holding the mount on may be 15mm. Doubelcheck the fit of the socket.

You can also do this without taking the wheel off, and you can do it on ramps, with no jack.

It's much easier taking the wheel off, I just wanted to see if I could do it.

The underbody trays are the hardest part to remove.

My "motor side" mount was SHOT. I could move it 1/2" up and down with my pinky finger.

Anyway, the use of this mount with a 2.3 missing the balance setup is "interesting"

There is a wicked resonance from 1500-900 RPMS when the RPMS drop down.

And from 2200-3400 while accelerating.

None at idle though.




...




Let's just say I will be checking mount bolts once a month, in case they vibrate loose. I'm also going to get some red loktite, and put it on all threaded bits.

Re-doing everything is a small price to pay.






On a more positive note, the shifter feels like butter, and the overall response of the car is much better.

Also, magic fingers.
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Last edited by Palmer; 01-16-2008 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 01-17-2008, 04:20 AM   #10
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I just did my mounts like 2 weeks ago, so I though I'd put in my 0.02. You can jack up the engine by the oil pan, I used a 2x8x8 under the pan to prevent damage from the jack. If you center it right you can jack the angine by the oil pan, and do both the engine and trans mount at the same time, this way you won't get the shifter linkage misalignment that some people do.
When I took of my stock mounts, some bolts had blue threadlocker ont hem and some had red, so I just used the same threadlocker when I re-assembled. I'll see if I have any good pics.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmer View Post
New info:

The bolts holding the mount on may be 15mm. Doubelcheck the fit of the socket.

You can also do this without taking the wheel off, and you can do it on ramps, with no jack.

It's much easier taking the wheel off, I just wanted to see if I could do it.

The underbody trays are the hardest part to remove.

My "motor side" mount was SHOT. I could move it 1/2" up and down with my pinky finger.

Anyway, the use of this mount with a 2.3 missing the balance setup is "interesting"

There is a wicked resonance from 1500-900 RPMS when the RPMS drop down.

And from 2200-3400 while accelerating.

None at idle though.




...




Let's just say I will be checking mount bolts once a month, in case they vibrate loose. I'm also going to get some red loktite, and put it on all threaded bits.

Re-doing everything is a small price to pay.






On a more positive note, the shifter feels like butter, and the overall response of the car is much better.

Also, magic fingers.
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:33 AM   #11
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Good info!


I have been thinking of lifting the engine with a hoist, and then loosening the mounts, and letting the motor "center" itself.

All the jacking from underneath made it twist a bit.
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:55 AM   #12
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I think doing it with a cherry popper/picker would be the best way. Too bad they aren't something that can be loaned out as easy as my whorish brake bleeder

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Old 01-17-2008, 07:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I think doing it with a cherry popper/picker would be the best way.
a 4x4 Engine Support Beam works excellent for this.

and I know it has been mentioned, but having just done this :

On all the mounts, be careful with overtightening(!!!) any of the fasteners. The threads on both the bolts and in the frame are more fragile than you think. Loctite Red is a MUST. You will need Red the for the SF bolts as well

The two NG900 Mounts on the side are the same Torque Specs:

Trans/Engine Brakcet to Trans/Engine Mount bolts as well as the Rear mount to SF bolts are only 29 ft lbs (not much!)

The Trans/Engine Mount to Frame bolts are 54 ft lbs. You would not want to strip the threads of your frame.

BTW, anyone spot the new 9-3 Diesel Mount at GenuineSAAB.com?

Last edited by NickTurbo900; 01-17-2008 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:03 AM   #14
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Thats good extra info!

Palmer yours vibrates that much? I wonder if thats due to to all the extra "POWAR" you have there.... How does the rear mount look?
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:04 AM   #15
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It's due to me not having balance shafts.

That rear mount is soemthing to consider as well...
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmer View Post
It's due to me not having balance shafts.

That rear mount is soemthing to consider as well...
Ahh didn't know that was deleted on your car...

Yeah the diesel mount is geared for more vibration dampening. Might help..
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:15 AM   #17
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Palmer,

Is your 9-3 modified to have the 9000 Top mount installed?
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:19 AM   #18
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No, it's not.

I'm not going to do it either. It makes the motor twist at an angle when it moves back because you can only brace it from one side.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
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No, it's not.

I'm not going to do it either. It makes the motor twist at an angle when it moves back because you can only brace it from one side.
Plus the attachment to a strut tower brace is less than ideal.
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