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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 10-09-2007, 09:15 PM   #1
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Handling gains

What kind of handling gains could I expect to see from the Taliaferro (sp?) 35mm drop springs ALONE. How much stiffer are they from stock springs. I say alone because I cant afford them and the new shocks to go with them. Or what about that 6 point front subframe brace? I am looking around to see what I want to do to my car next to improve the handling. I dont want to do a rear swaybar yet as I race auto cross at my school, and the sway bar would jump me up 2 classes instead of just 1. My car is a 95 900S NA btw. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:25 PM   #2
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I would wait and save uo the money for shocks as well.
Lowering springs with stock shocks is not a good choice, your car will be lower but the handling can be crap since the stock shocks does not work well together with lowering springs.

I think the 22mm rear antiroll bar is a much better choice then the 6-point brace.

But still, I would get shocks and springs at the same time. Makes a HUGE difference to the handling of the car.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:56 PM   #3
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What kind of handling gains could I expect to see from the Taliaferro (sp?) 35mm drop springs ALONE. How much stiffer are they from stock springs. I say alone because I cant afford them and the new shocks to go with them. Or what about that 6 point front subframe brace? I am looking around to see what I want to do to my car next to improve the handling. I dont want to do a rear swaybar yet as I race auto cross at my school, and the sway bar would jump me up 2 classes instead of just 1. My car is a 95 900S NA btw. Thanks in advance.
You can double stack the rear sway bar without people noticing too much...
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Old 10-10-2007, 01:48 AM   #4
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You can double stack the rear sway bar without people noticing too much...
DIP had one in the for sale forums. I don't know if it's still available or not. Definitely don't get springs without the Koni adjustables.
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:28 AM   #5
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Have you looked into the GenuineSaab steering rack clamp + brace? Or how about some nice poly bushings? I'd highly recommend both of those if you're not interested in doing a sway bar yet.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:18 AM   #6
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Do the brace and the bushings make that noticeable of a difference? I know they would be a good improvement, but I wasnt sure just how much of a change they would actually make in the handling.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:48 AM   #7
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The brace will help significantly with torque steer to make hard acceleration much more manageable. The bushings well help a lot with keeping the wheels on the ground. The rear ARB is still probably the biggest bang for the buck, but the clamp/brace and bushings will also make a pretty substantial difference.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:01 PM   #8
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I don't think he will suffer from any torque steer with a n/a 900S.

Wheels, tires and Konis will help out imensely! Also the bushings would be a great improvement for the money. Springs alone wouldn't do as much for you as buying Koni shocks/struts alone.

I have Konis and stock springs in my 9-3, and it handles great, albeit with a higher center of gravity than if it had lowering springs.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:42 PM   #9
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I don't think he will suffer from any torque steer with a n/a 900S.
Oh yeah, completely forgot about that.
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Old 10-10-2007, 02:47 PM   #10
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Personally on a NA 900S i would say RARB along w/ Shock/Spring combo nice wheels and tires you would have a tidy ship.
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Old 10-10-2007, 04:11 PM   #11
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I can say personally, having a 95 900 & also having a far amount of Suspension mods, first was the 22mm bar was first, then polys, & new shocks, with a good set tires, you can feel a big differance. Brakes are really good to upgrade too IMO.
I also got the steering rack clamp & brace, & after this past weekend at saabtober fest, I think it really came in nicely.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735088
-22mm Rear Sway Bar - Genuinesaab.com
-Bilstein Shocks and Struts
-EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Front and Rear - Car-Stuff.com
-K&N Filter
-Nokian Tyres RSI's - Winters
-Optima Red Top Battery
-Falken fk452
-Polyurethane Front ARB Bushings - Genuinesaab.com
-Polyurethane Suspension Bushings Inner - Genuinesaab.com
-Polyurethane Suspension Bushings Outer - Genuinesaab.com
-Sport Transmission Mount (Urethane insert) - Genuinesaab.com
-Steering Rack Brace & Clamp Kit - Genuinesaab.com
-Three Double Spoke Evo Style 17" Ronal Rims
-Zimmerman Drilled Rotors
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Old 10-10-2007, 04:59 PM   #12
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SPEND THE MONEY ON TIRES. Spring and struts and bars are NOTHING without good tires.

Fine get a sway bar and springs. But if you are rolling on some half ass all seasons, you are wasting time and money.

You said you want to autox. And apparently competitively, evidence by the fact that you were concerned about jumping up two classes. I agree.

Prioritize, if you want to be good at autox:

1. Max performance summer tires or R compounds
2. Brake pads
3. Struts

These all keep you in stock class, in most regions. Then drive the shit out of your car. Don't start doing any mods until you are comfortable that you have exceeded the limits of the cars potential.

I absolutely love trouncing a guy that is driving a boosted, tubbed, slick tire Miata with 300hp. In a bone stock 9-3ss.

MODIFY your driving ability. Then worry about the car. That's what the good, better, best drivers do.

I did it backasswards on my Z build and sometimes I regret it. But only sometimes.
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:03 PM   #13
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For emphasis...

TIRES are the single most important piece of material on your car. They are the only thing that connects your car to the road. They help you stop. They help you turn. They help you accelerate.

If you aren't using something that provides grip then you are just giving away performance (and safety).

I roll on Max Performance Summers and hi-perf winters. I scoffed at everyone who had multiple tire sets. Until I got rid of "high perf" all seasons.

All seasons are good at everything. But great at nothing.
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:29 PM   #14
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For emphasis...

TIRES are the single most important piece of material on your car. They are the only thing that connects your car to the road. They help you stop. They help you turn. They help you accelerate.

If you aren't using something that provides grip then you are just giving away performance (and safety).

I roll on Max Performance Summers and hi-perf winters. I scoffed at everyone who had multiple tire sets. Until I got rid of "high perf" all seasons.

All seasons are good at everything. But great at nothing.
x10000
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:30 PM   #15
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I did it backasswards on my Z build and sometimes I regret it. But only sometimes.
Elaborate. Now.
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:54 PM   #16
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Elaborate. Now.
I could barely drive it without spinning it at Autox events as it was, on stock power and old ass suspension. Then I did all of this:

70k mies when I purchased it.

Now has a 280 z engine with a 240z head...10.5:1 compression

swithched rearends from 3.4 to a 3.93

switched the 4sp to a 5sp late model

replaced stock tach with a 5in monster tach in original location

Unilite distributor, MSA headers wrapped in high temp header wrap, 2.5exhaust, crane cams ignition box, crane hi-perform coil, Energy Suspension poly urethane bushings everywhere, eibach springs, tokico struts, MSA strut tower braces front and back, Suspension techniques sway bars front and back, switched carbs to SU's with airhorns and K&N filters, seats replaced with Corbeau's, corbeau 4 point harnesses, ported and polished head, ARP rod bolts, Holley Redline fuel pump and regulator, modified oil pan with traps, Nissan Motorsports Turbo oil pump, Goodridge stainless steel brakelines, Hawk carbon metalic pads, Taylor Hi-Pro 8mm plug wires

Interior is pristine...no cracks on dash, aluminum switch plate, toggles fuel pump, ignition box, foglights and rev limiter switch....push button start in cigarette lighter position, Momo Dshaped wheel, MSA quick steer knuckles

Got rid of the airpump, emissions control, no cat, got rid of the air conditioning (no need for any emissions control...grandfathered due to the year of vehicle)

Yokohoma tires

MSA Front spoiler


mods came as I could remember them sorry for the weird order. I am sure there is more I have done in the past 2-4 years but I can't really remember everything right now.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topher View Post
I could barely drive it without spinning it at Autox events as it was, on stock power and old ass suspension. Then I did all of this:

70k mies when I purchased it.

Now has a 280 z engine with a 240z head...10.5:1 compression

swithched rearends from 3.4 to a 3.93

switched the 4sp to a 5sp late model

replaced stock tach with a 5in monster tach in original location

Unilite distributor, MSA headers wrapped in high temp header wrap, 2.5exhaust, crane cams ignition box, crane hi-perform coil, Energy Suspension poly urethane bushings everywhere, eibach springs, tokico struts, MSA strut tower braces front and back, Suspension techniques sway bars front and back, switched carbs to SU's with airhorns and K&N filters, seats replaced with Corbeau's, corbeau 4 point harnesses, ported and polished head, ARP rod bolts, Holley Redline fuel pump and regulator, modified oil pan with traps, Nissan Motorsports Turbo oil pump, Goodridge stainless steel brakelines, Hawk carbon metalic pads, Taylor Hi-Pro 8mm plug wires

Interior is pristine...no cracks on dash, aluminum switch plate, toggles fuel pump, ignition box, foglights and rev limiter switch....push button start in cigarette lighter position, Momo Dshaped wheel, MSA quick steer knuckles

Got rid of the airpump, emissions control, no cat, got rid of the air conditioning (no need for any emissions control...grandfathered due to the year of vehicle)

Yokohoma tires

MSA Front spoiler


mods came as I could remember them sorry for the weird order. I am sure there is more I have done in the past 2-4 years but I can't really remember everything right now.
Ummm...WHEN DO I GET TO SEE THIS CAR!?!?
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:29 PM   #18
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Once I bring it to MN.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:39 PM   #19
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Umm...most classes won't let you run an R compound tire unless you want to run with the big hairy dogs...

But Topher's advice is top notch...tires are the key.

Get some Falken Azenis RT-615's or some Proxes RA-1's (or if you have the bucks, Yoko Advans). ANd get practicing.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:44 PM   #20
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Umm...most classes won't let you run an R compound tire unless you want to run with the big hairy dogs...

But Topher's advice is top notch...tires are the key.

Get some Falken Azenis RT-615's or some Proxes RA-1's (or if you have the bucks, Yoko Advans). ANd get practicing.
I have 235/45/17 Yoko Advan A046's.

Wow. Do they rock or what.
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