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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 09-02-2007, 06:19 PM   #1
jak
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did I tell you guys? before SOC?

in the vid where my car did 425 on the mustang dyno I cracked 2 pistons at the pin boss & drove the car home..... this was a 160K mile engine I pulled from a rollover I bought
I pulled a used set of pistons with the used rings on them from a junk engine (I have a few) & honed the cylinders & droped them in with a new set of rod bearings.
I took it out & seated the rings at 15PSI & the same day was running 35PSI of boost (Ive had my car to 42 lbs of boost)
I had retarded the timing a bit & was running a fair amount of boost with the 125 shot so I started bumping up the timing & lowering boost & as the timing increased even with lowering the boost the car got much faster
when I got home I checked for signs of blowbye & the engine apeared to be healthy I did another file with 1 degree more timing & took the car out the next morning, that one degree made a big difference in the power & the car fealt like it did before I got onto the dyno
I did second gear on the bottle & 15PSI, hit third & pulled thru third to 6000RPM & just as I hit fourth oil came onto the windshield (catchcan is on the bulkhead) & a james bond smoke screan out the back ......
again I drove the car home & pulled the head & this time not only did I break the piston just like the others but I guess I was still on it prettygood as the combustion pushed thru the crack & blew a bunch of the piston into the pan..... (I was tempted at that point to do the 2.3 with forged pistons)
again another used set of pistons with used rings went in (took me 11 hours the second time)
I stepped down to the 75 shot pills & seated the rings at 15 lbs of boost & gave it hell
that was the engine that was in my car at the show.....
it hasent used a drop of oil nor is there any notable blowbye

these engines are tough no doubt on the second set where #4 had blown through there was only a shiny line down the cylinder wall which honed out easily
the blocks are verry sturdy ... I cant think of any other engine which would have gone through all of that & did what it did
these are verry tough cars & Im proud to own one
take care
JAK
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:37 PM   #2
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Whoa.


How would a c900 block stand up to a NG/9-3 one?
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:58 PM   #3
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Im sure the OG block is at least as strong as the newgen

I dont know if this is really true or not but Iwas told that some of the big block fords in nascar in the 70s were made from swedish iron
the blocks have a high nickel content & Ive seen blocks with over 150K mile with good OE bores
my 225K mile engine still had crosshatch in the cylinder walls & that was a verry abused high milage engine,,,,,
take care
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:00 PM   #4
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Wow, that makes me want to start hoarding engines.



I like how you drove the car home after all the "fun" you had with pistons and whatnot.
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:21 PM   #5
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my 225K mile engine still had crosshatch in the cylinder walls & that was a verry abused high milage engine
JAK
When I pulled the head on my 285k 9k you could still see and feel the cross hatches... you just don't see that on any other engine. How well do our blocks handle tapered cylinder walls? Ive never had a dial bore gauge available to measure it.
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:21 PM   #6
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sometimes I can be like a bull in a china shop
yeah I was never mad when it broke I defainatly was having fun torturing my car
I wanted to say also that with the piston changes there were basically 4 engines (so to speak) in 2 weeks
1:225K OE engine,
2:used 160K mile engine,
3:1st set of pistons,
4:second set of pistons, which Im driving on now......
Im going to do some 1/4 mile runs in a couple of weeks & get you guys some slips on the car
they will be with an open diff running 10.5X25X16 Mickey Thompson drag radials or maybe slicks
I need to get 15 inch steel wheels as the choices for slicks are much greater on 15s then on 16s
take care
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:00 PM   #7
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When I took my used 9k short block to the machine shop to have my engine builder spec it out, he said the rings where not even broken in all the way and the engine had a lot of life left in it. It had a claimed 170k on it!

The cylinders were well within wear spec, almost like a new engine, it was only one point off the bottom end of the wear scale. He stated either the owner took real good care of this engine or it was one tuff momma...

The only part that showed wear were the rod bearings, they were worn to the brass and he stated it was probably from someone driving it in too high of a gear most of the time. Main bearings looked good. Both were replaced.

He also stated the 234 block looked very beefy and the rods looked like something out of a chevy small block, very beefy looking rods he said. I said I was thinking of 500-600bhp, he stated only that the pistons might be the limiting factor of that set-up and maybe some arp main studs to hold it all together.

I opted to stay with stock pistons for four around 450bhp or so and with this hp level in mind, he stated, lets just hone the cylinders, put on some new rings, total-seal and that should be good... The motor is still running strong and I raced it over 30 times at the 1/4 mile track. Broke two axles, but the tranny is still there and the motor is running good even after hitting it with 28-33psi and some w/m injection with a special mixture of nitromethane for racing... That gave it a nice kick, maybe 50hp shot and it just flies.

I did some testing on the clock yesterday and even with a full tank of 91pump grap gas, full interior, back in, and 92F at 6000', density altitude of near 10,000', my car ran 60-90mph in 3.11 seconds!!!

Reference: passenger seat out, 4 gallons of 93pump and some nitromethane in the mix, my car would run 60-90mph in 2.88 seconds....

These motors are tuff!

John
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:44 PM   #8
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damn jon. you are freakin insane
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:12 AM   #9
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The only part that showed wear were the rod bearings, they were worn to the brass and he stated it was probably from someone driving it in too high of a gear most of the time. Main bearings looked good. Both were replaced.


John
So it is a good idea to replace these then? The connecting rod bearings, or should the machine shop make the call?
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:14 PM   #10
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Yes, its a good idea to replace the main and rod bearings if you have the motor out of the car. They are cheap and it took me about 20 minutes to replace and torque the rods and the mains. I just had the machine shop compress the rings and install the pistons in the cylinders.

I got the block home, replaced the rod bearings and the main bearings and started putting the block back together.

I have heard it from more than one mechanic, the rod bearings take most of the stress and are usually worn the most.

My engine builder feels anytime you have the block out of the car and you are not sure of the life of the bearings, replace them!

I think the mains were 60-80 bucks and the rod bearings were about the same I think... Maybe 120.00 bucks for the entire set and about half hour work once the motor is out of the car...

John
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