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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 09-02-2007, 04:16 AM   #1
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Removing rotors.

Anyone got any good tips as to removing brake rotors - rears specifically?

Im frusterated and stumped.
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:41 AM   #2
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half inch drill bit helps alot
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:53 AM   #3
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This should be exactly like the NewGen rear rotor removal.

http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/2005..._brakes_fixed/

Its mainly the 18mm caliper bolts that are a pain besides the screw that holds the rotor on.
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:09 AM   #4
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Yea, I knew about removal - but these were just a bitch. It took me 3 hours to get the two rear rotors off...then another whopping 30 minutes to wrap everything else up.

Only one snag, my drivers side caliper has a seized piston
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:56 AM   #5
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If at first you don't succeeded, use a bigger hammer.
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Old 09-02-2007, 09:21 AM   #6
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Use some caliper grease that worked on my seized rear one.
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:13 PM   #7
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the big thing that makes the rear rotors tough is the drum brake style parking brake. especially is there's a ridges worn into the inside of the rotor where the shoes ride.

honestly, just go bannanas with a big hammer. show no mercy.


and make sure the e-brake isn't on......that'll make it kinda tough
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:58 AM   #8
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You need to back the E-brake off first before the rotor will come off.
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:27 AM   #9
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The suggestion to use the cars nevermind, that was for the fronts.
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can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:22 AM   #10
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If at first you don't succeeded, use a bigger hammer.
I totally agree, mine were very stubburn.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:03 AM   #11
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I totally agree, mine were very stubburn.

x2

I needed a 3lb hammer to get the rears off my 9k last year.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:22 AM   #12
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Yep, I used a 5lb dead blow hammer.
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:18 AM   #13
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You need to back the E-brake off first before the rotor will come off.
false. i remove them all the time without messing with the adjustment. as long as the ebrake isn't engaged, they can be removed with some convincing.

and cooper, your problem is that you're using a dead blow hammer. you need a mini-sledge. dead blows don't have the force that an all metal hammer has.
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