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Old 07-11-2007, 09:34 AM   #1
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Stage 4 Viggen spark plug

I forgot where I saw it, but what is the recommended gap for my plugs? Wasnt it .85-.90? Or was it .085-.090?

I am feeding the car some Royal Purple and throwing in fresh plugs at the same time. Then its off to the dealer for a smoke test and then try and isolate my running rich issue if they don't find a leak.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:38 AM   #2
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.85-.9
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:15 PM   #3
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what are good plugs for the viggen the only place that had anything carried the ngk eridium.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:17 PM   #4
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what are good plugs for the viggen the only place that had anything carried the ngk eridium.
BCPR7ES-11's

edit: or possibly BCPR6ES-11's if it's not tuned and you're nice to it
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:20 PM   #5
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has anyone tried the eridiums or heard anything about them?
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:31 PM   #6
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has anyone tried the eridiums or heard anything about them?
Not worth it. Coop has a bunch of the plugs you want, PM him.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:21 PM   #7
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well jameson, i smoked the ever living crap out of my car this afternoon. found 2 minor leaks, and fixed them up. one was on the line that goes from the compressor side of the turbo to the bpc, and the other was on my forge bpv. got them both fixed up, and it was great for a while (about 40 miles), but now it is back to monster spikes (this time, 25 psi spikes, twice in a row). i think i am gonna try a new MAF next. and maybe play with some spark plug gaps as well. open and close them and see if any difference can be made.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:04 AM   #8
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has anyone tried the eridiums or heard anything about them?
Yes, I had them. I run the cheaper plugs now but I had those in my car on and off for about a year with a stage 3. I swapped them in and out with the cheapo's and could not tell the difference not matter how hard I drove the car. They are a joke price wise, so if you can get the cheap ones, do it.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:40 AM   #9
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For T7 2.3l BCPR7ES-10 (.9mm to 1.0mm) We tried to wear out the threads in my cyl head one day on the Viggen. I tried all combinations of plugs/gaps on the dyno recording lots of data and found the BCPR7ES (1.0mm) to be the best.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:29 AM   #10
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For T7 2.3l BCPR7ES-10 (.9mm to 1.0mm) We tried to wear out the threads in my cyl head one day on the Viggen. I tried all combinations of plugs/gaps on the dyno recording lots of data and found the BCPR7ES (1.0mm) to be the best.
I have a set of BCPR7ES-11's...does that make a difference? Should I still gap them to 1.0 on my stage 4?
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:46 AM   #11
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I have a set of BCPR7ES-11's...does that make a difference? Should I still gap them to 1.0 on my stage 4?
I think the 10 and 11 at the end is just the factory set gap. Sounds like 1.0 is what Nick was suggesting for gap.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:49 AM   #12
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I think the 10 and 11 at the end is just the factory set gap.
Absolutely right here.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:07 PM   #13
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So I called Nick. My prior plugs were gapped at .85 which he said wasnt going to cut it. I didnt play with MAF or DI just the plugs gapped to 1.0 made a BIG difference.

Butt dyno and wheelspin show the car is very happy and my gas mileage is night and day.

I was getting 20 around town and worked hard to get 25-26 highway. After the plugs I was getting 27-28 around town and DEEP into the 30's on the highway.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:20 PM   #14
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Time to check my gap.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:36 PM   #15
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Maybe I spoke to soon. Its much cooler out now. Took the car out. Boost was down and sounded like air might have been escaping(that part might be my imagination). Then came the blinking CEL.....is that only when there is a random missfire?

I popped the hood and the BPV hose was coming off but didnt look like it backed off enough to cause the issues.

I am going to check that, pull the fuse do an adaption run. If the blinking light is specific to a missfire it has to be the new plugs. I installed them like I always do. Only thing new is the 1.0 gap.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:45 PM   #16
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soo does this solve the problem with your car running rich and poor gas mileage?
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:47 PM   #17
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soo does this solve the problem with your car running rich and poor gas mileage?
It depends on what the blinking cel from tonight was due to. If the CEL was due to air leaking out by the BPV which I may no tmro and have it back to boosting then yes. If I still have the same problem its back to the drawing board. If the plugs are not the culprit and I have a random misfire its gotta be the DI.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:54 PM   #18
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flashing cel is usually accounted to a random (or not so random) misfire. i would account that to the bpv tube for sure. more airmass could do that for sure

i will run to the toolbox in the basement and grab a set of plugs and gap them for tomorrow, although i KNOW this isnt my cause of overboosting, but hey...i guess it cant hurt to try
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:58 PM   #19
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flashing cel is usually accounted to a random (or not so random) misfire. i would account that to the bpv tube for sure. more airmass could do that for sure

i will run to the toolbox in the basement and grab a set of plugs and gap them for tomorrow, although i KNOW this isnt my cause of overboosting, but hey...i guess it cant hurt to try
Hopefully the bpv will cure it, then a nice adaption run will make everything 100%

When the nipple off the delivery pipe gets hot it actually pinches in on itself on one side and that what allows the BPV to back off. I wish it wouldnt do that
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:01 PM   #20
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When the nipple off the delivery pipe gets hot it actually pinches in on itself on one side and that what allows the BPV to back off. I wish it wouldnt do that

The delivery pipe always makes my nipples hot.
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