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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Old 06-28-2007, 05:26 AM   #1
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Viggen turbo upgrade

Hey guys,

Over the weekend I swapped out my dead GT17 for a Viggen turbo. Everything seems to be ok now, except that when I give'er WOT and boost climbs deep into yellow then red, I get limp mode. The engine shut off on me once while doing this, so I didn't try to do it again. Everything is fine if I am easy on the throttle.

The Viggen turbo was put into my 185hp base 2001 9-3. Are the wastegate springs the same for these turbos? Am I boosting more than 15psi? Off the compressor/fuel maps? Do I need to use at least the HOT ECU?
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:29 AM   #2
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You may need a different BPV...
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:34 AM   #3
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You may need a different BPV...
Sorry, I'm still not 100% clear with the acronyms. BPV = bypass valve? Is that the electronic device with three hoses coming off the turbo?
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:37 AM   #4
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Sorry, I'm still not 100% clear with the acronyms. BPV = bypass valve? Is that the electronic device with three hoses coming off the turbo?
Here ya go. I think your old one is to weak then the system freaks out thus limp home mode...
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:46 AM   #5
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Oh, the diverter valve. How does this affect the ECU? If it was weak, it would not allow much more boost than stock, no?
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:50 AM   #6
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Before it goes into limp mode does it do anything else? Or does it all of sudden just get slow in LHM? Sounds, jerks, anything?
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:54 AM   #7
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Nothing significantly out of the norm. Turbo spools, then the engine goes into limp mode. And shut off once.

Is my ECU able to handle the bigger turbo?
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:59 AM   #8
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Things to check:
1.All ur vaccum lines are connected properly?
2.BPC (electronic device with the hoses) is plugged in and all hoses are ran properly. W=wastegate C=turbo and the 3rd goes to the intake.
3. Maybe base boost is set to high for your car, bc it is set for a viggen. Your ecu should be fine, unless you are running too high of boost.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:05 AM   #9
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1) The only line with a problem is the PCV hose, it has a tear in it, which I will be replacing tonight.
2) These hoses are all connected properly
3) Is the Viggen wastegate spring the same as the TD04?

After I get into limp, I only throw codes 1251 and 1261, which I hear is associated with it being in LHM and the mechanical setting on the TB.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:08 AM   #10
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Im not sure if its the same spring, but you should be able to adjust your base boost by un-threading the wastegate actuater a couple turns, so that it runs lower base boost.

How does it run if you unplug the BPC wire and drive it? That will put you at base boost.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:12 AM   #11
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Im not sure if its the same spring, but you should be able to adjust your base boost by un-threading the wastegate actuater a couple turns, so that it runs lower base boost.

How does it run if you unplug the BPC wire and drive it? That will put you at base boost.
Do you mean to just unplug the wires from the device itself? I'll give that a try tonight and see what happens. What exactly is base boost?
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:18 AM   #12
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Yea, just unplug the wires, it would help if you had a real boost gauge to know what base boost you were running though. If it's disconnected and you are still overboosting, its probably the WG being set to high. If the problem stops its either the BPC needing cleaned, or vaccum somewhere.


Base boost is what your car is set to run mechanically (via WG) with no BPC/ECU control and is about 50% what you will normally run with everything else running. Its completely safe to run
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:20 AM   #13
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Did you unplug the battery to reset the ECU?

On the turbocharger is the wastegate actuator. There's a long arm coming out with threads and a piece on the end, with a cotter pin. Pull the pin out and pull the arm downwards. Then, keeping track of your turns, loosen up the piece on the end so there are more threads showing. However, be very careful to not spin the whole rod as you can easily destroy the diaphragm in the wastegate! You just want to loosen the piece on the end.

This will lower your base boost, if pulling the battery cables for 20 minutes doesn't already.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:23 AM   #14
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Thanks guys, I'll do this when I get home from work later. I hope this is all it is.


Mr. Unkept, I reset the ECU many times before I got the code reader. I get the same problem back.

I used to have codes 0455 and 1300, which do not show up anymore.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Unkept View Post
Did you unplug the battery to reset the ECU?

On the turbocharger is the wastegate actuator. There's a long arm coming out with threads and a piece on the end, with a cotter pin. Pull the pin out and pull the arm downwards. Then, keeping track of your turns, loosen up the piece on the end so there are more threads showing. However, be very careful to not spin the whole rod as you can easily destroy the diaphragm in the wastegate! You just want to loosen the piece on the end.

This will lower your base boost, if pulling the battery cables for 20 minutes doesn't already.
Agreed. I had assumed he had already blown the diaphragm hence the replacement suggestion...
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:24 AM   #16
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3) Is the Viggen wastegate spring the same as the TD04?
You're using the wastegate from a TD04, right?
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:28 AM   #17
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From the sounds of it to me, you're getting the full potential of that TD04, and your ECU doesn't have the fuel map for all of that air. Like someone mentioned, without a boost gauge, you're going at this blind, but I don't have one either, and you can eventually adjust it so it's correct. One or two turns at a time, loosen that piece on the end of the actuator and you'll find where it's just right.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:31 AM   #18
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Unplugging power from the BPC won't give you base boost. It gives you no boost. To go into base boost, you take the C (compressor) hose and put it straight onto the wastegate. Doing this is only really useful if you have a real boost gauge, but you will still see if the car runs okay.

It sounds like fuel cutoff to me. The Viggen turbo will make more boost than the SE's, so perhaps it is overboosting?
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:14 AM   #19
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I am using the WG that came with the TD04, yes.

I was also guessing overboost since (from my reading) the GT17 boost tapers off in the higher rpms and the ECU expects this. From what I have actually seen driving with the new turbo, it stays at full boost in the upper rpms and leans out the afr, putting the engine in limp or shutting down....something to that matter. I'll be borrowing a boost gauge tonight.

Is there anyone that has done this upgrade that experienced this? Or do most people normally use the HOT ECU with this?
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:36 AM   #20
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You just need to lower your boost, that's all. I'm curious, did you put that turbo next to the GT17? It's night and day. The Mitsubishi will just naturally have better flow / move more air. If the turbo came from a Viggen, the wastegate is adjusted for a Viggen. Adjust the wastegate, problem solved.

Most people who put in a TD04 later on end up getting a tune I think, since the majority agrees the turbo will support approximately 300 hp.
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