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Performance Modifications for the Classic 900 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the Classic 900. This may also include suspension.

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Old 01-05-2007, 11:05 AM   #41
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yep, probably needs the timing set. lifter noise when you first start it is perfectly normal, it should quiet down within about 10-15 min's
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Old 01-05-2007, 12:34 PM   #42
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The way I put it in I just lined up where it looked like it was covered by the valve cover gasket and tried to line it up with the new one. Not quite scientific but I cant believe it could be that far off to make it run like this, I think I also hear some air hissing, but it sounds like its not a huge deal so Im relieved.
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:55 PM   #43
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Alright I found a leak from a missing bolt on the EGR plate on the manifold and took care of that. Now the car is driving again but I still think the timing needs to be set because the car still seems flat and doesnt feel powerful. What do most people set the timing on a c900 with some mods?
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:30 PM   #44
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IIRC, the recommended setting is 16-18 degrees BTDC (i dont recall exactly)... the instruction sheet that came with my software upgrades recommended 13-14 degrees BTDC
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:13 PM   #45
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the spec is 16 deg. Set it around 16-18, no more than 20.
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:19 PM   #46
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Cool, I set it to 16 yesterday and wasnt sure how far I could go before running into knock problems. But its driving better than ever so far so somethings working out.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:48 PM   #47
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So I'm doing the head swap on my car this week and just want to know which head gasket i should order for my car or is there no difference? I'm doing the 2.0-2.1 head swap on my 88 spg. Thanks for any help!

- Justin
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:22 PM   #48
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You want the gasket to match the block so you want the 2.0 head gasket and obviously the 2.1 intake manifold gasket(assuming you have the manifold) for the head.
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean View Post
yep, probably needs the timing set. lifter noise when you first start it is perfectly normal, it should quiet down within about 10-15 min's
Sorry for responding to the old stuff

If you have sustained lifter noise with the engine running after a headgasket, or letting the car sit a long time, but do not have the oil light illuminated, you may need to "bleed" the oil galleries of the head.

The first-design 16v head does not need this, only the type with the internal oil galleries.

It involves slackening a specific bearing cap on the camshaft, then cranking over the engine to push the oil out faster, then re-torquing the caps. From Saab Tech bulletin late 1980's
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:51 PM   #50
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You want the gasket to match the block so you want the 2.0 head gasket and obviously the 2.1 intake manifold gasket(assuming you have the manifold) for the head.
Thanks a bunch, thats pretty much what i figured but wanted to ask first to be safe and yup got the 2.1 intake manifold(and gasket)... thanks for such a quick response!

-Justin
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:25 PM   #51
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IIRC it's the lower bolt of the upper right bearing cap, front of car end of the intake cam. (it's last in the oiling circuit). The black bolts are the ones on the inside closest to the spark plug wells, and have the slot machined down their length to carry oil to the lifters.


-You loosen the bolt a few turns to open up the space under the flanged surface,

-put cam cover on,

-crank the engine with fuel and ignition disabled for 15-20 seconds, wait maybe 30 seconds, crank another 15 sec.

-Then pull the cover, it should be obvious that oil flowed out from under the bolt.

-Torque bolt back down,

-button up cam cover!


Best,
Drew
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:35 PM   #52
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Thanks a bunch, thats pretty much what i figured but wanted to ask first to be safe and yup got the 2.1 intake manifold(and gasket)... thanks for such a quick response!

-Justin
Yeah sure thing, its funny you bumped this thread as I was just thinking about it last weekend as I was tearing down a spare engine. I'd like to update this with some sort of DIY guide, even if its with the engine out of the car I think taking pictures would help out a lot of people who are hesitant to tackle this themselves for the first time. Its really a pretty simple job once you get the hang of it.
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:00 PM   #53
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Yeah sure thing, its funny you bumped this thread as I was just thinking about it last weekend as I was tearing down a spare engine. I'd like to update this with some sort of DIY guide, even if its with the engine out of the car I think taking pictures would help out a lot of people who are hesitant to tackle this themselves for the first time. Its really a pretty simple job once you get the hang of it.
It's nice that everyone's willing to document things like that, it just seems to help everybody else out.

-Justin
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:21 PM   #54
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i usally remove the turbo from teh 4 bolt flange where it mates to the mani, and let it hang buy the exhaust and lines

i got a head off in 45 mins yesterday with hand tools FUN

my advise,, clean everything, wire wheels are your best friend,, if you dont clean it,, it will leak,,, end of story

other advice, get new exhaust studs,, the too easy to replace out of car, and thet suck after they break,, do them now and youll be way happier later

i turn the motor with a screwdrive on the flywheel teeth (as delorean stated early)

OR, get one 19mm wrench on each cam, and turn it that way (if chain is still attached) youll need to use both wrenchs or the crank will never t

you can not see the marks via the square hole, the marks are on the flywheel right next to the teeth,,, there very hidden under the AIC hoses

hope this helps
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:17 AM   #55
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JEGS 80530 JEGS Flywheel Turning Tool
I got myself one of these, I got it before I bought a Saab. Looks like the perfect tool for turning a Saab engine over so I'm glad I picked it up.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:43 AM   #56
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i always stuff a clean shop towel behind the tensioner guide, then lay the chain over the top and zip tie it to the guide. this moves the guid as far inwards as possible, secures the chain, and gets the gears out of the way. i use this dirty little trick when the little plastic rod inside the tensioner breaks, making it impossible to put thie retaining pin in. just carefully stretch the tensioner spring (very little to take up the clearence the plastic foot offered. install the tensioner body into the head (after reloding the ratcheting foot). Use a clean pick tool to load a clean rag between the tensioner guide rail and chain. Double check that the slack has been taken up between the crank and exhaust cam, that the crank is zeroed and the exh cam is as well. Install the spring in the tensioner, then the 12mm bolt(oring too).torque both the body and 12mm to spec, then reach in with needle noses and pull the ra out, allowing the tesnioner to engauge. inspect carefullt that no rag peices remain, and that the chain is riding properly in the guide. turn the crank by hand and you should hear maybe one more click from th e tensioner. i like to roll the engine around twice by hand and recheck that the cams and crank come back to tdc. if your head has been milled, the cams should look a hair advanced when the cracnk is at tdc.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:48 AM   #57
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i responded to old stuff too... anyone have any band aids to make lh open up on the injector dwell? i'm stuck and ready to put that peaky t7 intake cam in to deal with this fuel starving. im planning to run t5, but need a trick here to buy me some time.
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:24 PM   #58
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Sorry if this has been covered here before, but I got a head off a 2.3 n/a 9000 for my 900 (was told its the same as the 2.1 head) Do y'all have any advice on how to properly store a head though? and any advice on what to do before I put it on the car?
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