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Performance Modifications for the 9000 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the Saab 9000. This may also include suspension.

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Old 05-29-2011, 03:54 PM   #1
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Saab fastest at PCA track day, (long)

Our spring Porsche Club of America (PCA) track day brought out nearly 60 cars despite over 2 inches of rain over the weekend.
I am a PCA driving instructor so I assisted in track setup on friday and drove students cars and instructed students students for over three hours each day in serious rain conditions.
In addition I put over 350 miles of track time on my Saab 9000 in the instructor group and advanced run groups. We are allowed unlimited passing in the instructor group so it was knuckle bitting conditions for sure in the rain.
We did get about three full on 25 minute sessions in the dry Sunday afternoon. But driving at least 10 hours in the rain at speeds up to 130 mph was something I will never forget.
By the way at those speeds Rain X is all you need, hardly never turned on the wipers.
I was about a second faster than the second fastest cars when the track finally dried out. I ran base boost, 12psi for all the rain sessions and the car still seemed rediculously fast.
Ran it up to about 15 psi as the track dried out.
JZW's tune I got last year with the 3.5 bar map sensor has more timing and really lets the car run just as fast on lower boost.
I am working on some turbo upgrades but primarily just to get a little more at high rpm's and not just more HP. The car is pretty well balanced now.
The 4.45 final drive (now in the car since 2002, for all you new converterts) hits the redline of 7000 at the end of our long back section. This is somewhere around 140Mph.
I did passed several cars at over 130mph at the end of this section immediately having to brake into two short s-turns and a hard 90.
Picture is of A new Porsche GT3 ($150,000) at 120 MPH in the rain on our back stretch, I lapped him nearly every session
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Last edited by MTAERO; 06-04-2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: error
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:27 PM   #2
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Must have been humbling to be lapped by a front wheel drive SAAB while driving a GT3!!
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:18 PM   #3
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4.45 @ 7000 RPM = 160 mph on stock sized tires
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:25 PM   #4
 
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This is beyond awesome.

Goes to show that skill + experience > deep pockets.
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:42 PM   #5
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Go Saab 9000, nice work, looks like a ton of fun
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
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4.45 @ 7000 RPM = 160 mph on stock sized tires
On my tires, 215/45/16 ( about 23" diameter) tires brings it down to around 148 mph.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:25 AM   #7
 
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I know there's a difference in track setup between a 9000 and a NG900, but have you driven an NG900 on a track? And if so, are there any adjustments that you'd immediately make? (Aside from the better ARB and shocks.. )

Any camber tweaks, etc?
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:33 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
I know there's a difference in track setup between a 9000 and a NG900, but have you driven an NG900 on a track? And if so, are there any adjustments that you'd immediately make? (Aside from the better ARB and shocks.. )

Any camber tweaks, etc?


camber is not adjustable
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:02 AM   #9
 
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camber is not adjustable

Shims.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:24 AM   #10
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Camber is adjustable on NG900 / OG 9-3s. I shimmed out my dads rear driver side wheel, it was something like -.95*, got it to +.06*
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:59 AM   #11
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the rear is adjustable. not the front
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:13 AM   #12
 
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the rear is adjustable. not the front
This we know. No revelation there. My query was for any and all setup tips from someone with experience tracking Saabs at nut-tingling speeds.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:27 AM   #13
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In my SPG I preferred a bit of toe out up front, I haven't messed around with my viggen enough at the track to figure out what works best, I was always to annoyed by the weak/flexy chassis.

The normal full VRK helps keep the steering wheel from bouncing/wiggling all over the place in long sweeping turns.

Not sure if the rear ARB is necessary if proper springs are used, many times having a softer back end allows the suspension to work better.

I took my viggen bone stock to the track..... hated the steering...... added VRK & rear ARB & the steering was much improved & the car was a bit better planted, less understeer. I haven't been back since I went the koni spring/shock kit but I hope to one of these days.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:42 AM   #14
 
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Quote:
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In my SPG I preferred a bit of toe out up front, I haven't messed around with my viggen enough at the track to figure out what works best, I was always to annoyed by the weak/flexy chassis.

The normal full VRK helps keep the steering wheel from bouncing/wiggling all over the place in long sweeping turns.
A good point. I have the brace and bracket and it made a huge difference.

Quote:
Not sure if the rear ARB is necessary if proper springs are used, many times having a softer back end allows the suspension to work better.
I can see this being the case. I've driven a Viggen with springs and 25mm rear bar and I actually preferred my springs/22mm bar.

Quote:
I took my viggen bone stock to the track..... hated the steering...... added VRK & rear ARB & the steering was much improved & the car was a bit better planted, less understeer. I haven't been back since I went the koni spring/shock kit but I hope to one of these days.
I'm considering a six-point cage to help stiffen things, but that's once I get the rest of the car sorted...
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:06 PM   #15
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6pt subframe or a actual roll cage?

My issue is just how the steering rack and all that crap is setup, just a horrible design making the steering less then ideal. A cage would help the twisting of the frame quite a bit....... & yea if you are getting serious about doing track stuff a LOT safer with a nice cage. I was so close to putting a cage in the SPG..... but I kept going back to the crappy trans
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:53 AM   #16
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I'm still stuck on the 7000 rpms claim. New Cams?? Balanced engine??

Ever sSEEN the typ owner of a GT3?? there's a couple in my area "nuff said
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:49 AM   #17
 
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Quote:
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6pt subframe or a actual roll cage?

My issue is just how the steering rack and all that crap is setup, just a horrible design making the steering less then ideal. A cage would help the twisting of the frame quite a bit....... & yea if you are getting serious about doing track stuff a LOT safer with a nice cage. I was so close to putting a cage in the SPG..... but I kept going back to the crappy trans
I have the 6-pt subframe brace, but I was considering a cage....

But I've asked around and several people have said it's not smart for a car that will see daily drives more than the track.......

Except they didn't phrase it that nicely

Maybe a bolt-in?
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:52 AM   #18
 
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I'm still stuck on the 7000 rpms claim. New Cams?? Balanced engine??

Ever sSEEN the typ owner of a GT3?? there's a couple in my area "nuff said
Move rev limiter with new programming, eliminate balance shafts (or remove the chain and plug the oil port). Add thicker Volvo valve springs, and you can rev to 7000.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:16 PM   #19
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from a safety stand point especially if you do or plan on doing a lot of drivers schools it's a good idea to have a cage.

But yea, if it's a daily hauler 99% of the time it can make getting in/out of a car a PITA. Usually the door cross members are kinda high making it not-so-easy for daily use. Back when we were 20 something yea.... but now..... not so easy

I am not sure if a cage w/o the door crash bars would be safer then a stock car or not. Kinda like most tracks do not allow 4pt belts, 3, 5 or 6pt is all they allow usually.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:17 PM   #20
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mustve been some seriously lame gt3 driver(s).
not to downplay your mad driver skills, but seriously...wtf!

from your posts its apparent you know your stuff. however, if this were viggenluca posting, nobody would believe it.
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