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Performance Modifications for the 9000 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the Saab 9000. This may also include suspension.

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Old 08-04-2008, 12:33 PM   #81
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I was doing terrible things to my car all weekend. Did not have much internet time.
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:38 PM   #82
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Which one the 91? Pictures?

PS: Might soon have another 9000 addition to my family ---97 Aero Black on Black---and sweet. Gotta put my game face on for negotiating price.
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:42 PM   #83
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No, as stated in the '91 project thread, plans have changed for that car. That is on hold until after the lemon's car is running. The car I was working on was the 1995 Aero.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:01 PM   #84
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What were you doing to 95?
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:32 PM   #85
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I figured that would be the case, my statement "I suppose it might be a problem..." was more of a disclaimer, since I've never tried anything like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JK View Post
NONONONONONONONONNONO!!!!

I cannot emphasize how many "NOs" should be there!

Remove the bolts, DO NOT use any sort of spacer ANYWHERE in there!!!

The slave cyl is adjustable! When you shave off some thickness it adjusts out further, its just like brake pads when they wear. You do not see anyone removing the pads and installing a spacer in there do you? No, because the piston adjusts out - same thing with the throwout bearing and slave cyl. 4mm is .4cm, and that is WELL within the adjustment of the slave cyl!

DO NOT USE ANY SPACERS!
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:08 PM   #86
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Haha, we're all here to learn and share, but hey I now know how a slave cylinder works.
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:13 AM   #87
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not sure if this has been covered and it is a serious bit of anaraking - but it could catch you out
ref: your wiring diagrams for the trionic
see the inlet air temp sensor and the engine temp sensor, well the diagram is wrong
the inlet air temp sensor is the engine temp and visa versa
i.e. yellow wire = engine temp
white wire = inlet air temp
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:30 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlaero9000 View Post
not sure if this has been covered and it is a serious bit of anaraking - but it could catch you out
ref: your wiring diagrams for the trionic
see the inlet air temp sensor and the engine temp sensor, well the diagram is wrong
the inlet air temp sensor is the engine temp and visa versa
i.e. yellow wire = engine temp
white wire = inlet air temp

Your talking about this right? Yeah they worded it wrong, but the location in brackets tells you where the sensors are located.

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Old 08-11-2008, 08:42 AM   #89
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yes cheers, thanks for posting the diagrams i,m into the harness at the moment chasing ghosts, got a high ( 7ohm resistance) on the AMtemp sensor - recommend, if your working a 2nd harness, go round the sensor earth circuit and clean it up / replace

mine appears to be somewhere inside the harness, between the sensor and an internal junction, so i,m going to soulder in a Y from the MAP earth - airmass temp - ECU sensor ground in pin
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:18 PM   #90
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Lots of things being done this would fall in the category of "How to install an oil temperature / pressure sensor".

This is how I did mine and decided to take some snaps since the engines out. I switched the positions of where the OEM saab pressure sensor usually goes, it was getting in the way of the starter. Second stainless line, the longer one goes to the turbo.


I think the pictures will tell it all, but then again maybe not.

Things needed:
1 -14mmx1.5mm (male) to -an6 (male) adapter + alum/copper crush washer GOES BETWEEN ENGINE BLOCK AND ADAPTER FITTING
2- -an6 tee adapter has 2 male ends and 1 female end
3- -an6 90* hose end fitting
4- -an6 150* hose end fitting
5- some -an6 stainless hose
6- 3/4" brass tee all female
7- 3/4" brass male to barb adapter
8- you'll need 3/4" to "Whatever you oil pressure and temp ends are"


Voila ready to read some gauges

These pictures were taken just after fitment was done just to see how it all fit in. In the pics there is no crush washer, but you'll need one.
















2nd little thing I've done falls under the category of "Balance Shaft Delete" how to block off your tensioner port hole. Got this idea from Yankton

Pretty straight forward.



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Last edited by adshaft; 08-14-2008 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:37 PM   #91
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Tons of stuff being done

1-Exhaust mock-up (Downpipe/EWG/Turbo adapter) PITA...
2-Timing wheel & CPS
3-Sandblasted rear calipers and receiver dryer (POR 15'ed them)
4-Inline oil filter for turbo (done)
5-External FPR /Rail/Lines
6-Remote oil relocation (waiting on parts)
7-Manual transmission oil cooler (waiting on parts)

More stuff as well but these are the time consuming ones.











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Old 08-31-2008, 05:11 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adshaft View Post
How did you drill/tap? (was thinking upside down) with a flushings. How big of a hole would be the limit? Looking to have it used for dual purposes and would like a 1/2" - 3/4" hole there.
http://townsendimports.com/Web/trans...inplughole.htm

i followed his instructions to the letter, with exception that i wrapped my drain plug in Teflon tape., and it worked great,, sometimes i feel like the reason 9k trannies fail is because there fluid is never changed. i changed mine every other oil change

also, i noticed your doing the NA intake manifold, its a great upgrade, however you need to do something about the NA fuel rail,, it just doesn't work with the turbo cars,,

lastly, i know ive said it before,, but dont delete your balance shaft chain,, i did the exact same thing your doing to my old motor, and lost all oil pressure,, then upon reinstalling everything properly got pressure back

Last edited by mike d; 08-31-2008 at 05:13 AM.
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Old 08-31-2008, 05:39 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike d View Post
http://townsendimports.com/Web/trans...inplughole.htm

i followed his instructions to the letter, with exception that i wrapped my drain plug in Teflon tape., and it worked great,, sometimes i feel like the reason 9k trannies fail is because there fluid is never changed. i changed mine every other oil change

also, i noticed your doing the NA intake manifold, its a great upgrade, however you need to do something about the NA fuel rail,, it just doesn't work with the turbo cars,,

lastly, i know ive said it before,, but dont delete your balance shaft chain,, i did the exact same thing your doing to my old motor, and lost all oil pressure,, then upon reinstalling everything properly got pressure back
I'm following the same instructions, have yet to drill though. Still waiting on some parts.

I had an Aero's square rail installed, but have decided to use a 900?? rail. It has two 12mm x 1.5mm banjo ends. Found it at my tech garage and it doesn't have the regulator built in it, the regulator is external, so this will coming in handy for my FPR installation. Didn't even know that there was a saab rail that had an external FPR.

As for the balance shaft delete, it's too late. Already done and sealed up. But looking forward to see if pressure holds up.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:54 PM   #94
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anxiously awaiting the results of all your goodies! i really like the manifold spacer for the EWG! nice.. and i'm definately anxious to hear your independent review on the synapse gate.
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:04 PM   #95
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anxiously awaiting the results of all your goodies! i really like the manifold spacer for the EWG! nice.. and i'm definately anxious to hear your independent review on the synapse gate.
Thanks bud, I hope to start her up within the month, hope I can have it tuned to my specs as well. Fingers are crossed

Completed the CPS/Timing Wheel. I cross referenced the positioning with another T5 crankshaft and it appears that when the engine is TDC the CPS is 20 small slots before the bigger 2 slotted slot. Hope I got it right. I used the timing wheel from the stock hall sensor and spot welded it to the new timing wheel. Not the best welds, but my bud only had big rods for his arc welder. Looks like crap, but should do the job just fine. I POR15'ed the CPS/Bracket as well as the inside of the timing wheel, then I just spray painted it to look pretty. POR15 I highly recommend it.



Wheel is perfectly lined up and should not come in contact with the CPS during rotation.








Side views, it is just a hair wider than the belt tensioner & A/C compressor clutch, so should be ok with not touching the plastic wheel liner.




Working on the external FPR.
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:27 PM   #96
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Kick ass! Keep up the good work Adam!
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:52 PM   #97
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Thanks Jessop,

One thing I'm worried about though. I'm having troubles locating my knock sensor plug. Maybe the 95 had one less sensor than my 91? And that extra plug is my knock sensor?

Here's the 95's engine harness and it's plugs, If you or anyone can tell me where I'm going wrong, that'd be amazing.

1- 4 fuel injector plugs
2- AIC plug
3- Speed sensor plug
4- o2 plug
5- CPS plug
6- Alt wire
7- Starter wire
8- Oil pressure wire
9- Coolant temp plug
10- TPS plug
11- ITS plug
12- DI plug
13- 2 ground wires (contacted to manifold)

Think that's it, but where's my knock sensor plug?

Any help again would be greatly appreciated.

Adam
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:55 PM   #98
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No knock sensor on a 1995 (or any year of T5 for that matter). It uses the DI to sense knock.
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Old 09-02-2008, 03:02 PM   #99
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Ah the golden answer I was looking for. Thought I was losing my mind.

This is what was fucking me up:
http://www.thesaabsite.com/9000/9000turboparts.htm

why would they have it listed from 92 -98?

oh well thanks JK saved me some headaches
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:27 PM   #100
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Hmmm...OK, well I am not super sure now! I have to look at my car I guess.

Sorry if I was ill informed, and in turn ill informed you.
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