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B235R Build

3K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  jpgroth 
#1 · (Edited)
Heyo.. Relatively new member around here, been lurking for awhile. But I've been on Saabcentral for awhile, and have owned my wagon for 5ish years. I just rolled over 206k today. The motor still runs great, and pulls hard. But I figured it won't pull like hell forever, and this incomplete build was far too good of a deal to pass up.

Anywho, I wanted to make a progress thread here after I read a thread about the lack of activity on here. Keeps my photography in check, and you guys seem to be a better technical source.. This is my first motor build, so I'll be looking for some help along the way.

Plans are a 19t, it's used from Fleabay (unsure of the size on the exhaust outlet) so I plan to get a rebuild and balance it. T5 cams. Wossners (90.5) 630cc injectors. 255 Walbro. E85. Undecided on clutch? Indifferent about going with Spec. The head I got is cleaned and stripped, but I'm not sure if the valvetrain is from an aero. Where are the numbers located on the head so I can identify this thing? Block appears to be good to go, but I think I'll take it to a machine shop to get everything checked out. I want everything balanced since the BS delete came with the block.

I know I have more questions, I'll post them as I think of them. This will be a little drawn out since I am moving to CO in a week. Stay tuned, and I'll keep this updated as best as I can. Enjoy the pictures!





Gosh these things are beautiful..





 
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#2 ·
Awesome to see you are finally getting around to this! Glad to have you on the forum!

Looks like the block has been decked, and bored at the least. Has the main line been checked? Staying with stock fasteners or going with ARP's on the main line?
I would for sure check all your oil clearances. Micrometers and bore gauges are your friends :). Make sure to check all the piston to wall clearances and set ring gaps.

So you are going to have the crankshaft balanced, everything is going to be weight matched and you are going to get the flywheel/pressure plate zero balanced as well as the harmonic balancer balanced? You will LOVE it if you get it all balanced, they run so nice and smooth.

Where did you get the block? Good choice on the Wossner's. Such great qaulity and love that they come with the teflon skirt coatings!

Since you are only going with the 19t I would say go with the GS clutchnet sprung 6-puck clutch disc and an Aero pressure plate. Should be great for the torque you want to put down!

I cannot wait to see the progress, for sure subbing!

Oh, and if you need an "R" series valvetrain I have a spare b235r aero head laying around...
 
#3 ·
Looks like the block has been decked, and bored at the least. Has the main line been checked? Staying with stock fasteners or going with ARP's on the main line?
Decked and bored for sure. Main line check? Haven't heard of this before.. The purchase came with ARP's.

I would for sure check all your oil clearances. Micrometers and bore gauges are your friends :). Make sure to check all the piston to wall clearances and set ring gaps.

So you are going to have the crankshaft balanced, everything is going to be weight matched and you are going to get the flywheel/pressure plate zero balanced as well as the harmonic balancer balanced? You will LOVE it if you get it all balanced, they run so nice and smooth.
Balanced all around! What else should be weight matched? Conrods, pistons, piston rings, wrist pins? I'm not familiar with zero balancing either..

Where did you get the block? Good choice on the Wossner's. Such great qaulity and love that they come with the teflon skirt coatings!
I picked up the block from a guy near Green Bay. He posted in the local Facebook club.

Since you are only going with the 19t I would say go with the GS clutchnet sprung 6-puck clutch disc and an Aero pressure plate. Should be great for the torque you want to put down!
This guy? GenuineSaab.com

Oh, and if you need an "R" series valvetrain I have a spare b235r aero head laying around...
I might take you up on that. Is there anyway to differentiate the two heads? Different part numbers? I'm under the assumption that the heads are the same, the valves are just different..? The only numbers I found on the head are as follows 8 31 45. 7144 under the first line.
 
#4 ·
Main line check meaning making sure that the crankshaft main bearing carriers/caps are not out of alignment, make sure they are round, within spec. I like to read the old bearings before I send it out, in your case everything was kind of already done. It looks super nice for sure. To check a main line it should not cost a lot... Even to have them aligned properly it should not be outrageous.
If the oil clearances are all within spec, crank journals and whatnot, I am sure there is no problem. I have only ever had one Saab engine have a misaligned main line and it was severely overheated multiple times, it had been through hell essentially to say the least.

I like to weight match everything that is part of the reciprocating assembly. Pistons (Wossner's are usually already within 5/10'ths of a gram). Wrist pins. Wrist pin clips/retainers. Connecting rod bearings (usually within 1-2/10th's of a gram if they are Glyco). Piston ring sets. Connecting rod big ends, small ends and total rod weights.

It would be better for you to watch this for an inline engine...



Same for a flywheel/pressure plate. And a harmonic balancer, essentially they spin it, measure it, add or remove weight until it reads "zero". I call it zero balancing. Others call it something else lol.

Yeah those guys. GenuineSaab. I have used the SPEC stage 3+ kits before. I liked them minus the pedal feel. It feels too soft for my preference. But I have a customer I just did a 9-5 19t build for and he really likes how it feels. They are expensive, and not the best qaulity. But there are few options... I also used it on my gt3071 Viggen, no chatter, but the pedal feel I hated. Far too soft for my liking.

Honestly I am not sure, I think the head castings share the same part number, but someone who actually knows for sure should chime in. Let me look in EPC and I will get back to you. Yes, the exhaust valves on the "R" heads are different.
 
#5 ·
Thread's back! Niceee!

I've been caught up in my move. I.. and the wagon made it successfully made the 16 hour marathon drive. The car took it a like a champ. Unfortunately the car was packed full and dragging ass with household things and smaller car parts..so the block did not make it along for the trip :th_thumbsdownsmiley

I haven't quite checked through all my boxes for what parts for the motor came along. So far I know I have the connecting rods and valvetrain. But I assume everything that needs to be balanced should be done all at once? I might ship those back home and hire my parents to take everything to a machine shop.

Any word on the EPC head part number?
 
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