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Old 04-03-2013, 04:17 PM   #1
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1999 Saab 9-5 motor swap?

Hey everyone i was wondering what other 9-5 engines i could swap into my 99 saab 9-5. The first question you may ask is why not junk it, but i put a ton of money into it and not ready to cut my losses. The engine recently spun a bearing and im wondering if an aero engine would fit?

Also if the old tranny would bolt up also?

Thanks and much appreciated!
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #2
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99-08 will fit in. If you use 04+, you'd want a pretty complete engine. PCV system changed in those years, so it's nice to get all the pcv lines, throttle body, starter, turbo inlet tube

Your 99 tranny will bolt right up with no problems


Not my ad, but this would work. Also, this pic is a good illustration of what you'd want to see included if you went with a 04+ engine http://burlington.craigslist.org/pts/3706704777.html

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Old 04-03-2013, 04:41 PM   #3
 
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If it's a 4-cylinder, then all Saab engines from 1994 on will fit. The 9-5 Aero engine is basically the same as yours but with a bigger turbo....and has all the same limitations.

A Saab 9000 Aero engine is much stronger, and probably cheaper.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:10 PM   #4
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It has the aero turbo on it right now, but thanks for the feedback. Since i have time to burn, im going to pull the motor and see the damage. Figured if the bore and head was good, buy a new cranks and forge internals. What would be cheaper though in the long run, buying some shot in the dark used engine or building?
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:00 PM   #5
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Definitely shot in the dark used. Machine work can get expensive because a shop won't want to only hone the bores and polish the crank, they'll want to line bore/hone it, deck it, hot tank and flush, new timing components, all new seals and gaskets, etc. etc., then all of a sudden you've spend $2k building a motor, then throw your used icky head on it?
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:09 PM   #6
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Just to give some background here, "The 9-5 Guy" is my 19 year old brother (Sigond's representing the capital region!). The car he's referencing is "Abdukted's" old cosmic blue 9-5. It was a really well maintained car that appeared to run great until recently when it decided to checkout a few days earlier.

Now, it's a question of:

Option 1: Rebuild engine (our father is a Saab mechanic, but he's not necessarily excited to dive into an engine swap on a 200K+ 9-5). He has already gotten a used short block and crank for free. The costs here would just be machine work and then the countless hours of engine removal/re-installation.

OR

Option 2: Find another 9-5 and swap everything over. This car has a TD04, intake, nice klingons with NEW federal tires, bridge spoiler, rear decor, stage 2 tune, remus catback, great interior, etc. It has a good number of nice parts.

What do people think? I kind of feel that, financially, it's smarter to spend $1500 on another running 9-5, then swap parts, but he definitely has some emotional attachment to it, and as he said, there was a significant amount of maintenance done to it over the last few months.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:42 PM   #7
 
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Option 1 is the most time consuming, but you get a known quantity at the end of the process.

Option 2 is the quickest but you could end up swapping stuff over to a car of unknown vintage that might shit the bed in 6 months...or 6 years....

Tough call.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #8
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I'd build an engine. You own the car, you have a good history on it, and it's cosmic (ftw)

Option 2 is a gamble. $1500 buys you somebody else's headache, unless you buy a late model wreck (wrecks are selling crazy cheap if you have an "in" at an insurance auction)
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:06 PM   #9
 
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....and if you just spun a bearing, you might be able to just put on a new set of shells and call it a day. You can do that from the bottom. I'd do that first, since you're only talking about a day on the lift.

But it might be worth just pulling the damn thing. There are three of you, right?

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Old 04-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #10
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Tyler can chime in here, but I think my father believes that there may be head damage too, as there was what sounded like pretty significant piston slap.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:31 PM   #11
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I want to drive the car, significant piston slap is still not enough to define it. Another bonus is that the chassis of the car is solid and has minimum rust. Another plus to the engine build is cheaper parts through the garage my father works at.
The 99- 2002 9-5 engines are sludge risks, and if i have the opportunity to dodge being reamed twice, its undoubtedly the wisest path for me. But im still young and dumb so for now im just pulling the croaked engine and evaluating the obstacles as they come.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:37 PM   #12
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Definitely shot in the dark used. Machine work can get expensive because a shop won't want to only hone the bores and polish the crank, they'll want to line bore/hone it, deck it, hot tank and flush, new timing components, all new seals and gaskets, etc. etc., then all of a sudden you've spend $2k building a motor, then throw your used icky head on it?
I have know a old timer who is a 30 year+ machinist and my family have been long time customers so the boring and grounding would be fine. Not a penny squeezer by no means, but i see how the build can be expensive, but with forge internals, its a car that could last to 350k. An online site is charging 1500 for a used certified engine.. but that could be a certified piece of shit, unless they have xray vision...
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #13
 
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I have know a old timer who is a 30 year+ machinist and my family have been long time customers so the boring and grounding would be fine. Not a penny squeezer by no means, but i see how the build can be expensive, but with forge internals, its a car that could last to 350k. An online site is charging 1500 for a used certified engine.. but that could be a certified piece of shit, unless they have xray vision...
I've bought two B234 engines for ~$600
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:51 PM   #14
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I've bought two B234 engines for ~$600
For running engines? or parts? also the engines had 98k on them for 1500.
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:57 AM   #15
 
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In each case, they were running engines pulled from junked 9000s. One was $600 delivered, the other was $600 and shipping was another $110 or so.

Both had 120-130K miles. One was stripped down to the block and refreshed with new wear items (rings, bearings, thrust washers, chains and guides, etc); the other just got new timing chain and guides...that's the one currently in my 9-5.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:30 AM   #16
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*****Update*****
Since the last posts I have made substantial gains. I found a short block with very low mileage and bored it .60 over with forge wossner internals. The low end is complete and waiting in a head with all new valves and seats.
The next thing im doing is buying a clutch and replacing that but stuck in making a decision. Should I go spec stage 3? Or go with a 9-5 aero clutch?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:35 AM   #17
 
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*****Update*****
Since the last posts I have made substantial gains. I found a short block with very low mileage and bored it .60 over with forge wossner internals. The low end is complete and waiting in a head with all new valves and seats.
The next thing im doing is buying a clutch and replacing that but stuck in making a decision. Should I go spec stage 3? Or go with a 9-5 aero clutch?
How much power are you expecting to be making? That's really the biggest factor, here, as well as your driving style and where you'll be driving.

The Spec 3+ would be for high torque applications, which the Aero clutch would be fine for a stock build and reliably handle up to 300-350 ft/lbs of torque. For daily driving in stop-and-go, the Aero would likely be more comfortable.

re: overbore: Even though I'm betting you mean .060 over...I don't know of anyone who has bored a B235 block to that limit. Daveship went .040, and I think a couple of the Maptun guys took a B205 to .040.

That's going balls deep for your first project....
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:43 AM   #18
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My bad haha and yeah its .060 over. For a first project i learned a ton and hope to make this old jet fly. The wossner pistons are insanely light and in additon of the wossner piston and rod, it weighs as much as just the old piston. I have no way of gauging how much power I will make so once the motor is broken in, ill dyno it and post it.
For the clutch I think ill go with the aero or viggen, spec is expensive as I sink everything I make into the car.the machinest I go to is a old timer that builds stock cars for nascar and he said I should go with the biggest pistons wossner made. So I did hopefully it will worth the investment of time and money.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:01 AM   #19
 
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My bad haha and yeah its .060 over. For a first project i learned a ton and hope to make this old jet fly. The wossner pistons are insanely light and in additon of the wossner piston and rod, it weighs as much as just the old piston. I have no way of gauging how much power I will make so once the motor is broken in, ill dyno it and post it.
For the clutch I think ill go with the aero or viggen, spec is expensive as I sink everything I make into the car.the machinest I go to is a old timer that builds stock cars for nascar and he said I should go with the biggest pistons wossner made. So I did hopefully it will worth the investment of time and money.
Unfortunately, the old-school view of "there's no replacement for displacement" goes out the window when you talk about forced induction.

Does Wossner actually make a 91.5 mm piston for the B235?
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:03 AM   #20
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I believe its 91.mm pistons. the bore is 93mm I believe let me double check
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